Made In The USA Shawl Collar Cardigan

Do any search for the above mentioned item and you're not going to turn up much.  Most knits, shawl collar cardigan or not, aren't made here in the states - that's just the reality.  Knits are typically imported to The United States whether they are quality or straight up trash.  While American garment manufacturing is on the decline (this should come as no shock to anyone reading this blog) you can still find pretty much whatever you want made by American factories if you're willing to drop the necessary coin.  Unfortunately, knits rarely seem to find themselves in that category.  At least not with the same frequency as denim or shirting.  That's why I was surprised to find Orvis selling a shawl collar cardigan made right here in the good ol' US of A.  It's made in Fall River, Massachusetts, a hotbed for the remaining knitting mills in America.  I can't say for sure which one makes cardigans for Orvis (CJ Cotton Co.?), but it's nice to see at least one stateside brand trying to keep the tradition alive.  The cardigan, itself, is only $98 and when compared to shit imports selling for similar prices it's not a bad deal at all.  And it is exactly what a cardigan should be - shawl collar, real leather buttons, pure, soft cotton, and ribbed finishing.  If you're looking for something real slim you probably want to look elsewhere.  In typical Orvis fashion this baby starts at a medium and is a more traditionally fitting piece.  Should your cardigan be slim in the first place?  Think about how you plan on layering and get back to me.  And on a separate, but related note, if you want a new shawl collar cardigan you need to check out Orvis' stock. One word - incredible. Thanks for the inspiration Joe.

-L.A.S

Watch Your Monies

When I ran a piece on black watch plaid last year one of the items suspiciously missing from my list was a wallet.  Well, if you truly love black watch like yours truly and you happen to also need a new wallet to carry what little money you have left over after buying all your F/W gear, you might want to look into Orvis' new Heritage Plaid wallet.  The wallet, which is made in the USA, features coated leather as oppose to a fabric panel.  While this does negate any texture mixing, it gives the wallet a more seamless feel.  And since you're hopefully going to be the only one touching it (do muggers read style blogs?) no one will be the wiser.  At $79 it's a good way to not spend all that much and still switch things up for the season - think about how often you bring out your wallet on a daily basis.  You can even emboss this badboy with your three character blogging moniker for 8 more smackaroos.  As United Style once so eloquently said, "Never spend so much money on a wallet that you don't have anything left to put in it."

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Orvis Waxed Sheridan Vest

Having just talked about quilted outerwear options for fall, it makes sense to highlight this excellent new down vest from Orvis.  The Waxed Sheridan vest is more or less your standard down vest, but really shines thanks to the quilted western yoke detailing.  I can't speak on how trim or not trim it fits, but from the picture it looks like it would definitely fall into the former of the two categories - you don't want to look like Randy in A Christmas Story.  The outer shell is waxed for water resistance and the front snap pockets actually feature hidden hand warmers, which is an extremely functional feature left off of too many pieces of outerwear.  The downside, for those of us who aren't exactly vegan friendly, is the faux-suede used instead of the real deal, but I guess that helps with the pricepoint if you want to do the whole "glass half full" thing.  If you're a smaller guy you're out of luck as per usual with Orvis - the smallest size is a medium.  When your mom told you to drink your milk she knew what she was talking about.

-L.A.S

Orvis U.S. Patent Collection F/W 2010

With all the money that seemingly exists in the heritage market it should come as no surprise to anyone that Orvis is the latest brand to make the jump.  This move may seem a little late, but who cares about staying ahead of the curve when you pretty much are the curve, right?  J. Lugg over at A Guide To Bad Taste made a good point when he said that Orvis has always been known as an outfitter more so than a producer, which I believe is the proper framework to view this collection.  Instead of going the "we dug through our own archives to find gems" route, Orvis opted to get with some made in the U.S.A all-stars (Schott, Gitman Bros., Grown & Sewn, Stronghold, etc.) to collaborate on all the gear seen below.  I'm assuming that the theme of the collection, besides focusing on domestic heritage, is based around specific iconic patents from these particular companies.

In theory this collection is a smart move, but I am skeptical on how Orvis can reach the niche segment of consumers who nerd out over all this heritage stuff.  Lots of those guys seem drawn to the reimagining of heritage that focuses particularly on fit.  As there is no word yet on that aspect of the U.S. Patent collection the jury is still most definitely out on if this will make any serious coin for Orvis.  It may turn out that the decidedly "older" and "traditional" brand thought domestic manufacturing and involving certain brands was enough of a selling point on its own and we all know how that usually ends up.  Everyone clamors for made in the U.S.A. goods, but when it comes to the showdown they are much more inclined to actually break out the plastic for "fitted" goods made anywhere but (i.e. Uniqlo, J. Crew, etc.).  $170 khakis don't leave much money left over for your seamstress.

The entire collection, which is extremely deep, hits stores mid August, but you can check out some catalog scans via Selectism now.  Mister Crew also wrote some interesting criticism of this undertaking a while back, when word of the collection first broke, which serves a nice companion piece when checking all this stuff out.

-L.A.S

The Double Breasted Traveler

Another quality piece from the good folks at Orvis, this Hopsack Double Breasted Blazer is one of the better DB options available at the sub $300 pricepoint.  It's part of Orvis' run of travel blazers - the kind that don't wrinkle or stain thanks to their polyester/wool blend.  I've mentioned before how hardcore garment heads hate anything "travel" or "wrinkle/stain" resistant, but let's not pretend like all that stuff doesn't come in handy every now and again - utility and functionality rein supreme in certain cases.  The made in the USA blazer comes fitted with pretty much everything I look for in a double breasted blazer (i.e. navy colorway, gold buttons, 6 button stance), but lacks the coveted ticket pocket often seen on higher end models coming out of Italy.  A friend, whose opinion I greatly value, explained that the notches on the lapels seem a tad bit low and while I do agree to some extent, they may just peak enough for the price - if that makes any sense.  As with any tailored good from Orvis a trip to the tailor is a prerequisite.  While many men take the double breasted route to hide their gut, there is no reason not to get the waist nipped and ditch some excess fabric.  With that being said, I would still think about sizing down.

-L.A.S

Split Toe

I rarely see a split toe shoe I like, but these bucks from Orvis are insanely fly.  Oxford style bucks are everywhere these days, no thanks to their resurgence in popularity, so these particular joints will help you be the only cat rocking moccasin and split toe steeze.  The appeal here really is he shoe's uniqueness and switcheroo on the classic buck vamp - what is normally a plain toe has been given a slight upgrade in my opinion.  Orvis is selling a shoe that despite being a white buck with a red bick sole does not necessarily conform to the conventional standards we have come to expect of this particular shoe style.  It's a change of pace, while still existing within the established paradigm of traditional Anglo-American footwear.  There is rarely a need to reinvent the wheel, but a slight adjustment never hurts.

-L.A.S

Orvis Does The Classics

I guess it makes more sense to say that Orvis continues to do the classics because that's what they've been doing more or less since 1856.  For a long time I've been a fan of their in house label due to the fact they make great looking stuff that will last a long time.  Granted, their gear has always been a little more expensive than their competitors, such as L.L. Bean or Lands End, but they justify their pricepoints for the most part.  When it comes to bucks and saddle shoes brands like the aforementioned usually hit it out of the park.  I mean, they are the ones who have been making this stuff the longest so they "get it".  Orvis doesn't need trends to remind them to go back into their archives or anything like that - the stuff is second nature at this point and lacks the grace period some folks require before they get shit right.  They currently have some iconic red brick sole footwear in stock in both the buck and saddle categories.  As you probably know from both your own experience and the tone of this post, it's nothing new, which is a damn good thing - just some classic shoes that would look great at the end of some chinos.

-L.A.S

Crushable

So I just got an inquiry regarding a hat purchase in anticipation for the upcoming spring showers so I figured I would do my best to drop some fake knowledge.  I don't wear hats myself, but my Pops does all the time and he swears by this wool crushable felt hat from Orvis.  I know the idea of crushable, non-iron, stain resistant anything brings shudders amongst the style community, but when it comes to a hat I think it is a good idea - what might seem like a novelty is actually quite practical when you consider the kind of ringer most hats are put through.  The hat's wool is treated so it's water resistant (perfect for said showers) and it is made in the USA for anyone keeping track.  Having been hands on with this dome piece before I can attest to its superior quality (Orvis is no slouch) and just how straight up dashing it looks in person.  There's nothing wrong with a bucket cap if that's your thing, but then again, I wore those when I was 12 - just sayin'.  It is currently for sale at Orvis for $49 or $24 if you want to be a badass and get it in black.

-L.A.S

Holiday Recommendations: Hoof Pick Belt

[Pictured: Leather Man Ltd. hoof pick belt courtesy of Hickoree's Hard Goods.]

A good gift is often something nice that someone would not buy for themselves.  A new belt fits into this description perfectly as many guys tend to overlook the importance of having nice "accessories".  When shopping around or building your own wishlist consider upgrading to a hoof pick belt, which happens to be a fantastic option for all your casual pants.  Just because you are not at work does not mean your belt has to be a faux leather, cracking piece of crap.  This belt is often full-grain leather, complete with brass hardware and has a great sense of understated showmanship (if there ever were such a thing).  Unlike a belt that you probably own, this belt has a unique pick closure system that adds an element of ruggedness to this standard accessory and any outfit.  Check out selections from both Orvis and J.L. Powell for two solid, made in the U.S.A. hoof pick belts.

-L.A.S

Dress Like Hemingway: Viyella Shirts

[Pictured: Hemingway in what appears to be a Viyella shirt, Cuba, 1956. Picture courtesy of The Life Archives.]

I apologize if you thought this was going to be a neat, little style retrospective.  I could have easily done that with one swift browse of The Life Archives, but instead I'm going to focus on something a tad more tangible and practical. 

Ernest Hemingway, next to McQueen and a few others, is one of the (un)offical mascots for all this Americana, hertiage stuff and is frequently sited as a style icon.  I can't argue with this.  For a lot of guys, Hemingway is a man to be admired (even if only sartorially).  A talented man's man, who never sacrificed his beliefs, Hemingway and his life is easily romanticised.  There is nothing wrong with any of that and I'm just as guilty as the next blogger, but enough with the blog-osophy...

My Dad is a huge Hemingway fan.  From reading countless biographies to joking about getting 4 dogs and naming them after Ernest's wives, the man knows and loves him some Hemingway.  While home for Thanksgiving my Dad put me onto some interesting information regarding Hemingway's shirts.  In 1983 the Hemingway biography Papa Hemingway: A Personal Memoir by A.E. Hotchner was published.  On pg. 157 there is a brief mention of Hemingway's sartorial preferences. 

It was 1955 in Key West, Florida and Mary, his then wife and a woman known for being able to take infinite amounts of abuse, had just ordered a large selection of goods from the Abercrombie & Fitch catalog for Ernest to sort through.  Getting American clothes in Cuba meant paying heavy duty so while in Key West she took it upon herself to stock up for her husband.  Despite looking at the clothes "suspiciously" and making a remark about a "new uniform", that seemed to indicate a certain uneasyness about these new clothes, he did emerge with six new Viyella shirts, among a few other things.

Viyella are known for “blending 80% long-staple combed pima cotton with 20% Australian Merino wool before spinning the two choice fibers into yarn gives the fabric its unique combination of durability and softness that only gets better with age.”  Since reading this passage sometime in the 1980's my Dad has built his own collection of Viyella shirts and for all you heritage nuts out there who constantly look to Hemingway for inspiration, a Viyella shirt is a great way to actually dress the part. 

Viyella is a "luxury" fabric and retails for $129.00 over at Orvis, but this appears solely based on branding markup.  For a resonable $49.00 you can pick up the shirts at Cabela's Sporting Goods and avoid the 80 buck Orvis tariff.  I know fit is a big deal for a lot of people, so I'm going to recommend sizing down.  All fit aside, the fabric is extremely comfortable and I can see why Hemingway grabbed six.  If nothing else,  I see these being a great gift for your own Dad as the holiday's are fast approaching.  Thanks to my Pops for doing all the legwork necessary for this post (he's Sartorially Inclined's unpaid intern).  The next time anyone tries to tell me how awesome Hemingway was, I am going to politely stop them and ask to see the tag of their shirt before we proceed.

-L.A.S

Fall Looks: Bundled Up (Part 2 of 2) - Gloves

I have absolutely no need for gloves in Charlotte, but since I'm not that ego-centric I put together my favorite offerings for this F/W.  Coming from the considerbly cooler Northeast originally, I know a thing or two about a great pair of gloves (as if there is really anything to know in the first place).  I personally prefer fingerless or convertible options because they are much more functional and you look that much cooler.  I put together a bunch of different price points and styles, but as you know with gloves they typically fall into two categories: hi-tech and classic.  As with everything else that has ever made it onto Sart Inc, my picks skew towards the classic.  I've listed materials in parentheses because a man should know what he's getting himself, and his hands, into.  Buy one of these and safely remove your hands from your pants...

Asos Fair Isle Design Fingerless (100% Acrylic)...$10.47

While I don't recommend matching these up with your awesome new fair isle sweater, these gloves are a cheap way to inject a little seasonal flair (excuse my word choice) into your getup.  They may be the cheapest of the bunch, don't forget these badboys ship from the UK.

Penfield Knitted Fingerless Mitten (100% Acrylic)...$31.40

Leave it to Penfield to make the only mittens that are even remotely cool.  You know you are getting great quality from these guys, but kudos the MA brand on the details.  I'm really into these red accents.  Just like above, keep in mind shipping as these are from a UK retailer.

Urban Outfitters Herringbone Gloves (Polyurethane, Acrylic)...$28.00

The poor man's herring bone blazer you can wear on your hands!  Faux suede included!  In all seriousness, for under $30 you are unlikely to find a dandier pair of gloves.  We all know class is an illusion anyway...right?

Filson Merino Wool Fingerless Gloves (84% Merino Virgin Wool, 11% Nylon, 3% Acrylic, 2% Lycra)...$22.00

If I was actually buying gloves these Filson fingerless options would be my go to.  A fingerless design in classic gray with real deal, made in the U.S.A quality.  Perfect in their simplicity. Perfect in their functionality.

Steven Alan Wool Camp Glove (Wool, Leather, 100% Cashmere lined)...$125.00

You may have already seen these floating around the blogosphere at some point because they are Steven Alan and his products demand attention.  If you take your gloves as seriously as, say, your jackets then these are the gloves for you (I mean, that is Woolrich plaid).  Like everything Steven Alan makes, it's all about the genius reinterpretation of our staple items.  In this case, peep the thumb slit for easy and stylish iPhoning, Blackberrying and texting your bff's. 

[Bonus]
Orvis Trigger Finer Uplander Glove (Leather)...$59.00

The swagger that comes from wearing a glove with a trigger finger (a magnet holds the finger back in place!) is undeniably priceless.  Great for busting caps and picking your nose...not necessarily in that order.

-L.A.S

Watch Men

[Pictured: American Field Watches circa World Wars I & II.]

Originating in the 1880's, the field watch gained steam as the prevalent time piece during the first World War due to soldier's demands for reliable and portable time devices.   These accurate, shock resistant watches, much like army fatigues, grew to represent American no frills, utilitarian design.  The technological advancements of WWII also extended to the watches.  With solid forged steel cases and thick, strong straps, the watches were more battle ready than ever.

The field watch saw a resurgence in the 1970's as the populatity of outdoors sports increased.  Suddenly there was once again a demand for a less expensive, rugged watch that, above all else, was readable and reliable.  By the 1980's the field watch was so popular that it had earned the reputation as the "blue-jeans" of timepieces.*

The field watch has recently been experiencing a similar resurgance to that of the 1970's/80's as it finds itself very much at the center of the menswear heritage/workwear movement.  Guys who would typically pass over such a watch in favor of something more intricate and expensive are drawn to the field watch's simple aesthetics and rich history.  Outdoors companies like L.L. Bean and Orvis are offering the same field watches they have for years, while brands like Timex (in a "collaboration" with J. Crew) are re-releasing models from their past. 

If you're in the market for a cool, new watch and don't want to spend north of a king's ransom look into a field watch.  I recommend going the vintage route by picking up one of the hundreds available on eBay.  You can find plenty of working watches (sans band if you like) at a bargain of the new asking price.  Thanks to a tip from Nick, I am currently trying to secure a vintage L.L. Bean field watch as we speak (you're crazy if you think I'm going to link it up here, though hopefully I can post on it when I win the auction).  If you're worried a vintage option is too much of a risk, try any one of the new varieties posted below. 

I'm really into black face (wow, this can definitely be taken out of context) watches in general, so that's what I would recommend as far as faces are concerned.  Otherwise, there's not much else going on outside of the band you choose.  The field watch is a complete "less is more" piece and that's the way a watch should be.  No matter if it's a field watch or a Cartier tank watch, the simpler the better.  On the matter of bands, most of these allow you to switch in and out the band of your choosing.  Grosgrain seems to be what's trending right now so either head down that route, or go in the opposite direction.  For someone looking to break new ground, try a simple cotton (waxed even) band or some type of nylon (braided possibly) to keep with the understated theme of the watch's face.  Or you could just say "screw it" and throw on a vintage leather band.  I can't imagine anything cooler right now than a "blacked-out" field watch.  Who watches the watch men? I do, that's who...

L.L. Bean Classic Field Watch...$89

Orvis Briar Haven Field Watch...$69

Timex Expedition Retro Metal Field Watch...$39.59

J. Crew x Timex Military Watch...$150.00

Hamilton Men's Khaki Field Watch...$116.99

 

-L.A.S

*Field watch lead in pictures and history paraphrased and sourced from here.

Fall Looks: "All Black (Watch) Everything"

[Pictured: The Black Watch badge and tartan.]

It's no secret here at Sartorially Inclined we love our plaids and tartans.  When it comes to fall style, you can't really go wrong with any variety of plaids, though be careful when mixing and matching (to play it safe we recommend not doing it at all).  Not all plaids are created equal, however, and it is Black Watch that holds the number one spot in our heart (see: new +J sportshirt acquired from Uniqlo a while back) . 

The Black Watch were the 3rd Battalion in the Royal Regiment of Scotland whose name derives from the dark tartan that they wore while patrolling, or more literally "watching", the Scotish Highlands.  Since The Black Watch pattern is considered "free tartan" anyone can wear it without showing any disrespect to our Scottish friends (thank you Wikipedia).  In that case, here are some awesome Black Watch pieces for you to wear this fall while patrolling your own "Highlands" aka your local dive bar...

Gap Fitted Thomas Checked Shirt...$39.50

Polo Ralph Lauren Black Watch Tartan Bow Tie...$70.00

The Hill-Side Black Watch Plaid Coated Cotton Tie...$83.00

L.L. Bean Lambswool Scarf...$39.00

L.L. Bean Fleece-Lined Flannel Shirt...$54.00

L.L. Bean Scotch Plaid Flannel Pajamas...$44.50

Orivs Tartan Driving Cap...$49.00

Orvis Black Watch Blazer...$450.00

Orvis Scottish Tartan Trousers...$129.00

Whatever plaid items you are looking into this fall, be it a new shirt jacket or set of pajamas, consider getting it in black watch.  It's versatile, steeped in history and looks fantastic.  While some of this stuff is a bit "traddy", pairing it up with other modern, basic fall essentials is a quick and easy way to put together a great fall outfit.  Wear your black watch blazer over a white oxford and some cords or throw that black watch shirt jacket over a white t-shirt and some denim.  Currently, Sartorially Inclined's most coveted black watch look is a white oxford paired with the neckwear (the Polo bow tie or Hill-Side tie) seen above and some raw denim.  The possibilities are pretty endless.  If you are going to get "all plaid out" this fall stick with some black watch while the Scots are still letting us in on their fun...

-L.A.S