Texture And Mild Disappointment

For a while Gap was getting some serious play around these parts.  Patrick Robinson had taken over as Head Designer and was leading an admirable mall store revival reminiscent of J. Crew or Martin + Osa.  While "buy better, buy less" was always the mantra, not everyone could spend upwards of $150 on a single item.  Not to mention, Gap was slowly becoming a place where you could actually start buying "better".  Somewhere along the way Gap started being, well, Gap again.  New items were less "classic" and the good stuff, often seen in the pages of major magazines, wasn't making it into production or their American stores (read: duffel coats, Cowichan sweaters).  It was a shame, but I don't think anyone was losing sleep over it.  As of right now there are only a handful of new F/W 2010 items I would even consider buying from Gap.  One of which is their new textured shawl collar cardigan.  The 80% lambswool sweater is interesting thanks to its use of, you guessed it, texture.  I saw this sweater in person and was impressed with the waffle thermal like body and the overall fit.  Gap's knits have always fit me better than J. Crew's (higher armholes, etc.) so if you find yourself in a similar boat this may be something you want to check out.  I should also note that you'll probably be able to fit into two sizes, so depending on the look you're going for you may want to try this on in store if possible.  Also, if the pricepoint is a little to rich for your blood, this being a Gap sweater and all, you probably want to wait until this goes on sale in, say, a couple months - they always do.

-L.A.S

Washed Denim

These days it feels like everyone is preaching raw denim or bust as if it's the end all be all when it comes to your jeans.  I've helped feed the beast on this one, no doubt, but consider this my way of making up for lost time.  While raw denim is a favorite of the style set due to its unique fading and the various personalization that comes with each wear, it's not always the best move in S/S.  The heavy nature of the raw (unwashed) and often stiff fabric is a recipe for an uncomfortable outing, especially in the dog days of summer.  Assuming you don't want to ditch your jeans in favor of chinos, shorts or various other cotton trousers, what are you gonna do?  Well, white jeans are always a popular choice, but they can be tricky to pull off.  Not to mention, if you doubt yourself while wearing white jeans you're as good as finished.  At this point it seems as if conventional style knowledge tells us that our only choice is to suffer through the heat.  And don't get it twisted, you can totally do that if you want to. I've done it myself and I'm sure I'll do it again at some point.  If form truly outweighs function in your specific case, who am I to tell you that you should change - just keep doing you.  But for those of you who are looking to avoid the unfortunate scenario of sweating right on through your pants, you might want to look into a pair of great fitting, washed jeans.  Shit, maybe even selvedge.

[Pictures courtesy of The Sartorialist, GQ and Jake Davis.]

There's no real tricks or rules.  Wear them just like you would your most prized pair of raw denim.  Dress 'em up with a tucked in shirt, knit tie and blazer or neat roll them so there's no break and pull out your haggard ass Vans.  You love your raw denim, not just because of how they represent your specific lifestyle (i.e. your grease stains, your creases, etc.), but also how effortlessly they can bring a kit together.   With such a classic and stylish base, even your white tees look unstoppable.  I don't think there is any reason to think washed jeans can't do the same thing.  Except this time you won't look like you just got ambushed by some punk ass kids on a water balloon drive by - that's never a good look.  In fact, you could even argue that washed jeans look better this time of year.  Their light coloring and smooth texture really has that whole S/S aesthetic vibe thing on lockdown, eh?

The marketplace isn't as flushed with washed jeans that keep things classic and understated (i.e. the wash itself and the cut of the jean) as it is with raw options so a little bit of digging is encouraged.  If you are a little hesitant about going back to washed or are just straight up broke start at the mall (blasphemy!).  Gap, J. Crew and Levi's should have some options, some of which may indeed be selvedge, which really helps when showing off to girls how many blogs you read on your lunch break.  If you're big doggin' it and money aint a thang brands like RRL, Brunello Cucinelli, Spurr, Billy Reid, 4 stroke and Baldwin Denim have pricier numbers that will last longer and hold up despite the thin, washed cotton.  So I guess what I was trying to say was that raw denim is great and everyone knows it, but that doesn't mean it's your only option.  Washed denim - try it out.  Or not. Whatever. Food for thought.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Thanks to everyone who helped me out with this one over on that Twitter thing and read Prepidemic's take for some more insight.]

All Packed Up With Nowhere To Go

My cheap duffel radar just wont quit.  Gap recently added this perfectly devoid of branding, classic cotton duffel for all your summer jaunting needs.  It's only 40 clams which leaves you a lot of money left over to fill up your tank or purchase that plane ticket - what's the point in buying a bag that costs more than your trip in the first place, right?  The only Gap bag I ever owned was a similarly minimalist cotton backpack that lasted me right up until it got lost in the blackhole that was my senior year at college so I only have great things to say about quality.  Both colorways are pretty versatile and the size seems conducive to both daily use (i.e. the gym) and weekend getaways (i.e. your friend with benefits that lives upstate).  You might have seen this floating around the internets already so I figured I'd clarify the details.

-L.A.S

Better Dead Than Red?

As you can probably tell I've been digging on the color red quite hard recently and running out of puns for titles.  I understand that not everyone is ready to wave that flag as proudly as myself, but if you are on the fence you might want to start with this pretty awesome and pretty cheap belt from Gap.  It's a woven D-ring number that would look pretty smashing paired up with some raw denim and a white oxford (tuck that shirt in boy).  I like how there is some gray woven in as well to keep it on the fairly modest side and separate it from the more crazy ribbon belts you hopefully already own.  The width, at 1 1/2", should work with most of the pants you already own and sets itself up as a nice out of the office option, depending on where you work of course.  It's only $19.50 so you don't have too much to lose especially if you've already convinced your girl that watching a downloaded copy of Remember Me is going to be better than hitting the theater.

-L.A.S

Gap Brings The Heat

My man Paul, who runs the blog Dreams of Perfection, just hit me up with some pretty incredible intel.  Gap, that's right Gap, has released their own version of the red chambray shirt for $49.50.  You would think that hoping on the bandwagon of both the fabric and color of the season would be an obvious move, but for whatever reason red chambrays have been in very short supply so this is a good move by the Gap.  Everything that will ever be said about red chambray has already been so I guess I'll quit while I'm ahead.  Chances are you already clicked the link and you're not even reading this right now anyway...

-L.A.S

Pop and Lock

I was pretty pumped when Gap put out their chambray popover a little while back so it should come as no surprise that I am all over their new 70% cotton, 30% linen numbers.  Once again we have a case of Gap picking up on what's "popular" and offering a take for the common man.  If you spend any time checking out all the threads on the Internets you will agree with me that at $44.50 Gap's joint is the cheapest of the cheap.  I can totally get down with these plaids and even though I definitely wish these were oxford cloth, beggars can't be choosers.  I'd also get rid of the button through sleeve tabs, but anyway...

I think the thing to keep in mind here is that at some point popovers/pullovers/turnovers/poptarts/etc. will not be "cool" again and the Gap will surely take them out of production.  While Gap's product selection, like that of any good mass retailer, is more fickle than you ex girlfriend I hope that you, the consumer, are not.  Popovers are pretty damn classic and I prefer them to polo shirts when it comes to this time of year.  So, I guess that leads me to two points: 1. Just because these won't be for sale by summer does not mean they won't be cool and 2. Buy them now if you're feeling them because once something like this is gone at the Gap it's usually gone for good (thought I probably would have said the same thing about their chambray's a year and a half ago so I guess I don't know shit - what else is new).

-L.A.S

Gap On Deck

The men's style blogosphere often fetishizes old school deck shoes - Sperry CVO's, Vans Authentics (whose "pops" was a deck shoe), etc.  It's not hard to understand this obsession as the deck shoe pretty much epitomizes simple, functional old school cool.  Hell, Google JFK and you're more than likely to find quite a few pictures of our best dressed President lampin' on his sailboat clad in the WASP (though Kennedy was a Catholic) uniform: oxford cloth button down, chino shorts, Wayfarers and, of course, deck shoes.  Gap has recently put out their own take on the deck shoe and are offering both a classic CVO type sneaker and a chukka version.  Both kicks run under 40 bones and are pretty swell options for anyone looking to get their sailing game right.  I'm particularly fond of the chukka and its  reimagining of the deck shoe in a modern framework.  Chukkas with shorts or rolled chinos are always a good look and the Gap joints won't require a trust fund.

-L.A.S

Power To The People

While we're on the subject of super cheap anoraks I'd like to draw your attention to Gap's number currently on sale for $59.99 - this truly is outerwear for the people.  I can vouch for its decent fit, having tried it on, and I do like the chambray lined hood for a little extra mustard on this otherwise standard joint.  I'm fairly sure I have mentioned this piece before, but with everyone looking for affordable spring outerwear these days I felt the gutter level pricing deserved some more face time.  If any readers actually own this I ask you to please share your thoughts in the comments.  C'mon, even Plebs need to stay dry.

-L.A.S

Gap's Blue Gold

The good folks at Gap seem to think this chambray and demin craze isn't going anywhere anytime soon.  They've loaded up on a variety of western and work shirts all of which are being sold at the Gap's trademark pricepoints.  I personally prefer Gap's cut to J. Crew's and they seem to be closing the detail "gap" as well - western shirts come clad with pearl snaps and the chambray shirts have what looks to be redone pockets and collars.  With Gap at least you know what you're getting and even though it's not the best made stuff in the world it's good to know there is a lower priced option out there.  With the price of chambray at an all time high and people getting more bullish by the day it's good to know someone is looking out for the little guy - the little guy who happens to be straight broke.

-L.A.S

Attn: Gap New Arrivals

Patrick Robinson, or some of his goons for that matter, must be peeping the blogosphere because Gap just stocked some new shirting that looks like Engineered Garments diet.  Anyway, since I'm not necessarily champing at the bit to spend upwards of $300 on a shirt, I'm all for this kind of affordable "reinvention" (that's the most positive way I can spin it).  As long as you approach the purchase of these shirts with the knowledge that the fit and quality are going to be sub par in comparison then no harm, no foul.  New arrivals include a chambray popover for $49.50, a double flap pocket camp shirt for $39.50 and a chambray workshirt with asymmetrical pockets that has yet to make its way online.

-L.A.S

Gap's New Utility Collection: Amendment

After browsing the new Utility Collection a little more diligently I did find this pretty cool anorak, which for $89.50 isn't bad.  I've been on the prowl for a new anorak to serve as my top layer for S/S and I'm liking what I see here.  Before any triggers are pulled, quality and fit need to be tested out in person so maybe you'll be lucky enough to read another amendment to this already played out series of posts (and to think it's only been about 15 minutes).

 

-L.A.S

Gap's New Utility Collection

Never missing an opportunity to capitalize on what's popular, Gap's new collection of utility inspired classics has hit the scene.  The direct quote from the website: "Want to fall in line with the new military trend? We'll show you the key pieces to pull off the look."  There is also the required: "Inspired by the originals. Made new for today."

I was initially pumped when Patrick Robinson took over at Gap and was pretty impressed with lots of his initial stuff, but recently they just haven't been doing it for me.  The Utility Collection is in line with a lot of those recent "meh" offerings and I probably won't be buying this gear anytime soon.  Yeah, the price points are user friendly, but it all just feels so watered down.  Maybe I'm spoiled. Maybe I'm a snob. I don't know.  Regardless, if you want to load up on some wardrobe staples or just check out the multimedia attached to the collection (a real nice touch actually) be sure to head on over.  Check out some of the new pieces:

 

 

 

 

-L.A.S

Bastard Barracuda

[Pictured: Gap Barracuda Jacket available for $79.50.]

Sorry for the excessively harsh title, but what can I say...I am a slave for alliteration.  My brother just put me on to this new offering from Gap and at the very least it is an interesting take on the original Baracuta jacket.  I won't deny that this is pretty much a straight steeze bite on Gap's part, but with the price (and just flat out coolness) of the original I can't really blame them.  Baractua rip-offs are nothing new, but this is by far one of the better ones I have seen.  The details aren't really all there, but according to my brother, who ended up buying one, the jacket is pretty awesome in person.  This version apparently swaps out the traditional plaid lining for something of the cotton/chambray variety, which is a nice way to try and differentiate itself.  Also of note is the zippered detachable collar, though I am not sure why anyone would want to change up a pretty essential detail to the whole jacket.

While the original is something that has been on my wishlist for a long time I am not sure if I can find it in myself to drop the coin usually required to snag one of these.  Even scouring the annals of eBay will still turn up some pretty pricey numbers so this might be the way to go.  For whatever reason (saving a shred of credibility?) Gap decided against producing a firetruck red version, which would normally be my first choice as far as colorways are concerned.  The Gap jacket comes in both a khaki and navy version and could easily be your go to outerwear in the moderate temperatures of both fall and spring.  I guess at the end of the day while this jacket is the red headed step child of a classic it doesn't necessarily deserve to be handcuffed to the furnace in the basement.

-L.A.S

Bargain Cool Wrap-Up

The Gap cardigan talked about way back when both here and at the old men.style.com have finally hit the online market place.  While I was really excited at the time and singing the praises of Patrick Robinson, I'm not that blown away anymore.  I'll be the first to admit that since Patrick took over the creative duties at Gap things have improved greatly, but I can't get behind this (I guess this post's title is a little misleading).  First off, it is a zippered cardigan (where's the buttons) and the design is also kind of lame (not retro cool or whatever).  Anyhow, just tying up loose ends and giving you the chance to check it all out for yourself.

-L.A.S

Eagle full-zip cardigan...$148.00

Stumbled Across: Too Much of a Good Thing?

First Jake, then me, then Aaron, and now me again...The Gap seems to be getting a lot of face time around the menswear blogosphere recently.  After heading back to their website to track down Aaron's chambray, I came across another interesting piece courtesy of Mr. Patrick Robinson.  These buffalo plaid shirts are Gap's take on the Filson classic, with a little modern twist.  I'm not sure how I feel about the contrast plaid interior as it envokes a little of the "hey, look at me...look how hard I'm trying to be stylish" manifesto of poorly dressed men.  Anyhow, check out these brand spankin' new offerings and roll up your sleeves at your own risk.

Gap Fitted Buffalo Plaid Shirt...$49.50

-L.A.S

Monday Morning Bargain Cool

A while back I remember reading something on one of men.style.com's (r.i.p) fall trend reports that went something like this, "This year's fall collection is one of Gap's best".  They highlighted a specific Native American inspired cardigan and that was it.  I remeber being skeptical, but at the same time continually checking Gap.com to see when said pieces would be released.  After not seeing much of note for a few weeks I moved on. 

If you read Jake Davis' blog, and you should, you saw that this morning he shouted out two new cardigans from the American clothing giant.  Intrigued, I headed back over to their website and checked out the new developments.  While I could not find anything as "high-end" as the aforementioned Native American cardigan I did see some pretty good value pieces worthy of the Sart Inc co-sign (I'm so humble, right).  Mostly of the sweater variety, these options are pretty wallet friendly and are fall staples any guy should own.  I can't really speak on fit because half the things I've gotten/tried on from The Gap (and I am talking about the Patrick Robinson era) fit awesome while the other half have been abysmal. 

Some of this stuff is pretty forward thinking like the fair isle hoody and some other stuff is pure American classic, which The Gap claims is their M.O. these days.  I'm particularly fond of the ribbed, shawl collar cardigan as a great outer layer if, like me, you experience a moderate F/W.  Some advice: as with anything else be wary of bold lumberjack buffalo plaid.  This does not work for everyone and I highly recommend getting the opinion of someone else before going all in.  Material is also a deal breaker, especially with mock necks.  If the material is cheap and flimsy you are going to have a limp, lifeless collar, which can ruin the sweater.  Anyway, here is some bargain cool to start off the week.  All sweaters are available here (prices range from $68-$98).

[Update: See The Gap men.style.com snippet here.]

-L.A.S

Fall Looks: "All Black (Watch) Everything"

[Pictured: The Black Watch badge and tartan.]

It's no secret here at Sartorially Inclined we love our plaids and tartans.  When it comes to fall style, you can't really go wrong with any variety of plaids, though be careful when mixing and matching (to play it safe we recommend not doing it at all).  Not all plaids are created equal, however, and it is Black Watch that holds the number one spot in our heart (see: new +J sportshirt acquired from Uniqlo a while back) . 

The Black Watch were the 3rd Battalion in the Royal Regiment of Scotland whose name derives from the dark tartan that they wore while patrolling, or more literally "watching", the Scotish Highlands.  Since The Black Watch pattern is considered "free tartan" anyone can wear it without showing any disrespect to our Scottish friends (thank you Wikipedia).  In that case, here are some awesome Black Watch pieces for you to wear this fall while patrolling your own "Highlands" aka your local dive bar...

Gap Fitted Thomas Checked Shirt...$39.50

Polo Ralph Lauren Black Watch Tartan Bow Tie...$70.00

The Hill-Side Black Watch Plaid Coated Cotton Tie...$83.00

L.L. Bean Lambswool Scarf...$39.00

L.L. Bean Fleece-Lined Flannel Shirt...$54.00

L.L. Bean Scotch Plaid Flannel Pajamas...$44.50

Orivs Tartan Driving Cap...$49.00

Orvis Black Watch Blazer...$450.00

Orvis Scottish Tartan Trousers...$129.00

Whatever plaid items you are looking into this fall, be it a new shirt jacket or set of pajamas, consider getting it in black watch.  It's versatile, steeped in history and looks fantastic.  While some of this stuff is a bit "traddy", pairing it up with other modern, basic fall essentials is a quick and easy way to put together a great fall outfit.  Wear your black watch blazer over a white oxford and some cords or throw that black watch shirt jacket over a white t-shirt and some denim.  Currently, Sartorially Inclined's most coveted black watch look is a white oxford paired with the neckwear (the Polo bow tie or Hill-Side tie) seen above and some raw denim.  The possibilities are pretty endless.  If you are going to get "all plaid out" this fall stick with some black watch while the Scots are still letting us in on their fun...

-L.A.S