Storytellers

More so than country of origin or the manufacturing process, which are very intriguing in their own right, it is the inspiration and meaning behind garments that interest me the most.  Clothes have the ability to tell highly personal and highly unique stories.  On the most basic of levels it is their function as emotional signifiers that make them meaningful.  This innate characteristic plays a large part in the creation and design of clothing that we buy and end up making our own - I guess you could say that emotion, in turn, breeds emotion.  I am very pleased to present a guest post from my good friend Antonio that I believe discusses this very principle.

[Alfred "Aldo" Ciongoli, UPENN class of 1964.]

[#75, Co-captain lightweight football.]

[Beta house secretary, wig, tie twist, no socks, in 1964.]

A well-designed garment can tell a story.  I have been fortunate in my career to work with people who want the clothing they make to say something about where it came from. The designers behind Rugby Ralph Lauren consistently excel at translating moments from American and English history into contemporary clothing with an authentic feel.  I am drawn to the familiar stories they tell of classic collegiate style because I grew up listening to the real thing.

My father was a storyteller.  Throughout my adolescence, I was constantly begging him to recount the memories of his.  Pop’s youth seemed to revolve around his corner - where 13^th met Wolf Street - in southern Philadelphia.  It was here that he traded his 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle rookie card for star Phillies pitcher Russ Meyer and a stick of gum. It was here that he developed his physician’s steady hand from surgically bissecting “pimple” balls in two for half ball games across the street.  It was here that he discovered he had been accepted to the University of Pennsylvania’s class of 1964.  

Pop’s college stories were my favorite.  At PENN, he took out a small student loan, not to pay for classes or books but to pick up the tab on dates with “Candy” Bergen.  “Aldo” was pre-med, co-captain of the lightweight football team and a member of two prominent honor societies; but if you asked him what he was really proud of he would have told you he was the secretary of the Beta house.  His fraternity was the stuff of legends, a mélange of mahogany and pipe smoke, backgammon and beat-up leather club chairs. Beta was famous for their “shipwreck” parties with waterfalls running down the house’s main staircase, sand dumped from wall to wall, and elaborately rigged nets that were the only way to move - or climb - from one room to the other. They stole trolley cars and dropped live mice on unsuspecting female passersby from their roof.  They wore coats and ties to meals and boatneck varsity sweaters and bowties to classes.   For Rugby’s fall/holiday ’10 collections, we tried to weave this vivid portrait of the Ivy League experience in the early 60s – filled with tradition, tweed and sockless weejuns – into the nooks and crannies of each garment.  You can see the best manifestations of Pop’s own stories in two pieces – his red and blue striped boatneck letter sweater and a reinterpretation of his football jersey in rugby form, complete with his tackle twill number “75” on the back and a hidden interior felt ID patch reading A.K.C. “Aldo” ’64.  I hear his voice every time I put one on.

Thanks to Lee Norwood and John Yang for telling a story of their own every season and allowing me to incorporate the memory of my father into this fall’s.

I'd like to thank Antonio for not only contributing this story to Sart Inc, but for being a continuing source of inspiration himself.  Whether he knows it or not, he has help shaped this blog and me as a person.  And for that I am truly grateful.

-L.A.S

Togs Blogs

Two WWD focused posts in one day? Good lord!  Menswear reporter David Lipke recently profiled 5 prominent men's style blogs/bloggers for WWD's weekly Menswear report, which runs every Thursday for those of you keeping score at home.  You probably know all these guys from their respective sites and are probably even fans of their work.  I've been lucky enough to meet everyone on this list in some capacity or another and I can vouch for all of them as talented bloggers and even better guys.  Lipke doesn't really dig to deep in his feature since its aim is to introduce versus expose, but you are likely to walk away with some inside information even if you've been up on these gents for a while.  He even posts their audience size and revenue streams - how gauche.  At the end of the day I love seeing my blogging brethren get some much deserved shine so it was nice for WWD to devote space to some of the folks who are doing it right.  I will always be a fan first and foremost.

-L.A.S

Get Up, Get Down

My buddy Nick, who you may know from ATG, just started a great new project - The Get Up And Get Down.  Nick has created a place on the internet unlike any other.  Despite all the talk of heritage, factories and craftsmanship in the blogosphere there was still no singular place highlighting and compiling true, original craftsmanship.  That's where TGUAGD comes in.  This new focus on the individual - "that person pouring their heart over what's being created in front of them" - will not only direct you to hard working folks making incredible things, but also help you become you own craftsman.  By adding "how to" guides the site not only spotlights those already doing it, but turns the spotlight on you.  It's ambitious. It's challenging. It's the real deal.  Along with all this, collaborations between Nick and the good folks highlighted will add a third engaging dynamic.  I don't know about you, but I'm excited.  Nick has a serious eye for style and it's going to be killer seeing his aesthetic taken to the next level.  So check it out and get involved. Send over your own work. Let the world know what you do. And we'll all be better for it.

-L.A.S

Shine

There aint much better than seeing your friends get much deserved shine.  Seems like GQ (both in The States and abroad) is giving some credit where credit is most definitely due. Brennan, Vince I see you!

-L.A.S

Jake Davis Test Shots: Jeremy Kirkland

Jeremy is a business partner of mine and more importantly a good friend.  He was recently featured in Jake Davis' Test Shots series and I thought it would be nice to give him the shine he deserves.  If I made a list of the best dressed people I know JK would easily find himself at the top no question.  Here he is channeling his patented style of urban prep, rocking brands from J. Press to Mark McNairy to Adidas with the kind of ease only developed by paying your dues at Smoothie King and living on the mean streets of Harlem.  This also more than makes up for that shot that was supposed to be on The Sartorialist, but got yanked due to "lighting" - you messed up Scott, you messed up big time.


Jake Davis Test Shots: Jeremy Kirkland from Jake Davis on Vimeo.

-L.A.S

Interviewed By Free/Man

 

Darian, my buddy and blogging brethren from up north (that's Canada folks!), was nice enough to include me in a new series where he chops it up with a few men's style bloggers.  Head over to read a little about myself and my thoughts on some stuff.  If you don't expect anything profound or too impressive you may actually enjoy it.

-L.A.S

Attn: The Aesthete feat. Sartorially Inclined

 

My buddy Brennan, and at one point kinda, sorta neighbor, curates the fantastic blog The Pursuit Aesthetic and has been running an ongoing series called "The Aesthete".  Basically a bunch of bloggers/tastemakers/creatives/etc. (seriously good company) post an outfit and share their thoughts.  I was lucky enough to participate along with all these talented folks and my entry has just gone live.  The timing of this is actually pretty great as I just started integrating my own actual fit pics into the Sart Inc landscape.  Be sure to check out my "uniform" and congratulate Brennan on his new job while you're over there.

-L.A.S

Attn: COE 2.0

My good friend and fellow blogger Paul has launched the reincarnation of his fantastic blog, Components of Enthusiasm.  COE is one of my favorite sites on the internet and with its fresh face lift for 2010 continues to grow into something very special.  Paul loves to keep things clean and the new COE does just that and then some.  I'll let the man explain in his own words, "A healthy dose of whitespace, large and vibrant photography, a monochromatic grey color scheme with red accents, and classic typography all combine to form the design elements that I’ve always envisioned COE to eventually have."  Check it out if you haven't already and most importantly, get inspired.

-L.A.S

Attn: Sartorially Inclined x Taylor Stitch

The shirt I "designed" with the guys at Taylor Stitch is apparently now available for purchase.  I had no idea the guys were going to put this up for sale and I could not be more surprised, honored and humbled.  Taylor Stitch is run by some of the best gents in the business and I'm happy to be part of something I truly believe in.  Sorry to self promote so obviously, but this is pretty damn cool.  Read my thoughts on the shirt here and check it out on the Taylor Stitch website.  Who knows, you may just even buy one.

-L.A.S

Mark McNairy at (capsule) NY

Due to a variety of BS circumstances I was unable to head over to (capsule) NY after hitting up ENK NY this past weekend.  After checking out Jeremy's "Caspule - Best In Show" piece on Mark McNairy I am lamenting my loss even moreso.

If you don't already read Starts With Typewriters you probably should. Jeremy is the rare combination of a hilarious dude who also knows his stuff and his blog is topnotch.  I am honored to count him as both a peer and a friend.  In the short amount of time I spent with him this past weekend I had an absoulte blast and hopefully we have some exciting things in the works ("Believe 2010").  Anyway, that's enough bromance for one day.  Check out some of the cool new McNairy stuff and be sure to read Jeremy's post to hear about the man, the myth, the gear and the murmurs of big moves.

-L.A.S

"Menday" Panelist At Style With Benefits

When Rebecca Lee of Style With Benefits approached me to participate in a new panel/ongoing series called "Menday" I was flattered and excited as I do not normally get to turn the lens on the fairer sex.  The gist is pretty simple: myself and a bunch of fellow bloggers (head on over to SWB to see the impressive line-up) comment on some wears for the ladies.  It is an interesting undertaking that tries to determine what guys really think of all the trends present in women's fashion. Check it out to see both the incredibly honest and the incredibly biting. Oh yeah, and a picture of me being mysterious.

Onward & Upward

[Pictured: Sartorially Inclined 1.0, 9/09-12/09]

I didn't have too many plans for Sart Inc in 2010 outside of producing quality content, but luckily I have some swell folks around me who are just as talented as they are ambitious.  My good friend Luis Valdizon, of Minoru Blvd, was kind enough to take it upon himself to make the page much more handsome then it has been in the past.  In the end, the blog turned out much like my sartorial interests, classic and understated.  Ultimately I hope the new look leads to a better experience for everyone who stops by here whether on a daily, weekly, monthly or whenever basis.  Many thanks again to Luis for his selflessness and vision.  Hopefully this is the start of something big.

Cheers,

Lawrence

[Update:  A huge thank you also goes to Nick for allowing me to incorporate his Bean Boot sketch into the header.  The boot really is at the heart of this blog and I was a little brash in my departure.  I would be remiss if I didn't admit that while everything looked great something was a little off.  They say you should do what you know and not reinvent the wheel. I couldn't agree more.]

From The Inbox: Close Up and Private Newsletter #02

As if I needed another reason to check out Close Up and Private, I got a really cool piece of marketing this morning.  Apparently, new pictures are being put up everyday so if you need styling advice on your fits or just want to look at, what I once called, "style meeting art" make sure you head over. 

Here are some of the text and images from the newsletter featuring friends and folks I respect.  Oh yeah, and some clown masquerading as a style blogger.  Many thanks are surely due to Sergei and his team for not only putting out some of the most amazing photos, but including me (aka my quote and blog) in their newsletter.

-L.A.S

COE's Favorites Series: Sartorially Inclined x Sperry Authentic Originals

When Paul asked me to participate I was honored.  When the project made Kempt the other day I was humbled.  When I read the kind words Paul wrote, well...I'm still speechless.  Components of Enthusiasm's The Favorites Series kicks off with yours truly.  Head on over to hear me wax poetic on my authentic originals.  It's honest, yet with tounge firmly in cheek.  I hope you guys enjoy reading it as much as I did fleshing it out.  Paul is truly a great blogger and an even better friend.  Don't forget to keep checking COE daily for each new installment.

-L.A.S

COE's Favorites Series

My good friend Paul, who runs the fantastic blog Components of Enthusiasm, debuts a wonderful project starting tomorrow.  Entitled "The Favorties Series", Paul will premier a new guest post daily highlighting a particular blogger and their favorite, most meaningful item.  I am honored to be included in such esteemed company and excited to be part of all the awesome things Paul is doing.  I'm not sure when my piece is actually running, but head over to COE today for a  preview and get the inside scoop on Paul's motivation behind the ambitious project. Get ready for the ensuing sartorial hurricane.

-L.A.S

Guest Post Over At Young Man/Old Man

Conor, of Young Man/Old Man fame, asked me to send a blog post his way.  Since I'm a big fan of his work I was flattered.  Head over to read my guest post on the style of Elvis Presley.

-L.A.S

Fit For The Weekend: Presented By S.I. x D.P.

When Dan from Disaffected Prep approached me about a collaborative post I was extremely flattered.  I have been a fan/follower/admirer of his blog for quite some time and was excited at the opportunity to work with him.  Dan has the uncanny ability to combine city living, style, and literature in ways that I don't think I ever will.

After bouncing ideas off of one another we came to the conclusion that a collaborative outfit would be a great way to highlight both our shared and distinct sensibilities.  We sent items back and forth during the week, each of us picking items that we liked, yet still based on what the other had brought to the table.  We plan on doing a few more "Fit For The Weekend" posts and are excited to see where it goes from there.  Hope you guys enjoy it as much as we enjoyed putting it all together.

[Note: Items presented in the order in which they were compiled.]

Polo Ranger Boots...$153.00

Me: You should have a pair of boots for F/W and you shouldn't have to pay upwards of $300 to get them.  I mean, they are going to get beat to shit anyway.  Polo's Ranger boot comes equipped with classic park ranger styling and look damn good.  A Moc toe, lug sole and buckle strap make this one of the best and affordable boots on the market.

LL Bean Double-Knee Katahdin Iron Works Pant...$49.00

Dan: Whether or not you were knocking tin all morning or just hanging out on the weekend, a reinforced double-knee workpant is a useful addition to your wardrobe.  In addition to durability (triple stitching, bar-tacks), these pants give another choice for guys who too often are forced to make a boring choice between denim or khaki for their pants and feature a great price point of $50.  These pants by LL Bean will stay in style as long as they will last - which is to say - forever.  

Martin + Osa Washed Flannel York Plaid Shirt...$69.50

Me: Martin + Osa is American Eagle's answer to J. Crew, except it's 10 bucks cheaper.  This flannel features some cool detailing (button-flap pockets, tabbed collar, seam gussets), a trim fit, and a real easy price-point.  Wear it while doing yard work or throw it on before you head out for the night.  It'll look good either way.

Patagonia Synchilla Vest...$75.00

Dan: Both functional and effortlessly cool, this classic by Patagonia kicks up your outfit a notch and is perfect for fall or spring days.  When it gets really cold, layer up and wear it underneath your jacket.  Though the "Patagucci" moniker is earned for its pricey gear, if you pony up $75 for this vest you'll get yourself a quality garment that will be used year in and year out.

Orient Quartz Alarm Chronograph Red...$150.00

Me: This Japanese watch maker has been producing watches since 1950, though they just recently entered the US market.  Good thing they did because you are not going to find a cooler looking watch for under $200.  Everyone, including myself, has been telling you to grab a black face watch, but try this instead.  Simple yet classy, this watch (and black leather band) will dress up any rugged weekend gear.  And most importantly, it looks 3 times more expensive than it actually is.

-L.A.S x Dan

Friends and Flattery: One Man's Style

If you aren't already hip to One Man's Style, let me educate you real quick.  While there are a ton of "photo essay" blogs all over the internet, few are as efficient and well executed as OMS.  I was lucky enough to email with Andy, who runs One Man's Style, about a project I am working on and he asked for me to do a guest post.  I was extremely flattered and immediately gathered some of my favorite images for him to throw up.  Head over to One Man's Style for a little inspiration tonight, tomorrow and the next...

-L.A.S

Friends and Flattery: Southern Gent

I shouted out DAM and his great blog here.  He was nice enough to pay it forward.

-L.A.S