Custom Varsity

Similarly to cult brand The Temple of Jawnz, House of Billiam specializes in custom varsity jackets.  The UK brand has a pretty simple process in place enabling customers to get not only one of the most sought after pieces in menswear, but one of the most elusive.  It's as simple as picking out your favorite swatches (sourced in the UK) and knowing a few basic measurements.  Three weeks later you've got a custom, hand made varsity jacket ready to help you battle the weather this F/W.  HOB has two varsity models to choose from - a base model featuring melton wool sleeves and a more expensive jacket featuring a melton wool body and leather sleeves.  Both are extremely reasonable as far as made to order outerwear is concerned and when you factor in the timelessness of a varsity jacket you really have one hell of deal on your hands.  There are few cold weather jackets as handsome as a classic varsity and House of Billiam is doing their part to get them on the backs of gents in the UK and abroad.  For both inquiries and orders you can get in touch directly with HOB by emailing info@houseofbilliam.com.

-L.A.S.

Lusting After: Creep Selvedge Chino

Creep can sometimes be a little "out there" for lack of a better phrase (read: chambray chef hats), but Hiroshi Awai also does some seriously incredible stuff.  For example, these gingham selvedge chinos are off the charts.  They're on some restrained Junya 2.0 type shit, giving you more style than necessarily fashion, and ultimately resulting in some of the coolest chinos on the market.  The only thing that concerns me about these is how well they could transition into F/W.  I love chinos because of their year round versatility, but the addition of blue gingham could potentially counteract this. Or maybe not.  Maybe I'm over thinking it.  I mean, who wouldn't want to wear these pants as often as possible?

 -L.A.S

Gant By Michael Bastian Style Guide

I've said it before, and in the last post no less, most people around these parts do not need a style guide. But, you may still be interested in reading certain takes on how to do things right in the sartorial sense.  Mr. Bastian and Gant created their own style guide in conjunction with the debut of their collaboration's first season and it is now online.  Hard copies of this are also floating around (I had a copy at one point), but it's up for public consumption thanks to a revamp of the Gant by Michael Bastian website.  It's a great read and if you're going to trust anyone you might as well trust the best menswear designer working today, right?  It's a quick and interesting read filled with some stuff you definitely already know and some stuff you may not.  I'd screencap the entire thing for you, but it's in Flash with some scrolling features - I'm not that lazy. I swear.

-L.A.S

Hands On: Rugby Limited Edition Jean

Last week Rugby released their Limited Edition Jean Box Set.  The good folks at Polo were nice enough to send me a pair to test out and talk about if I liked them.  Well, as you can imagine, I like them - I like them a lot.  These made in the U.S.A. jeans are the real deal.  By "the real deal" I mean ultra-dark indigo-washed selvedge denim sourced from Cone Denim's White Oak Plant.  The small batch (only 100 pairs were produced) are hand numbered and also feature an array of thoughtful details.  The pocket bags are blue oxford cloth and the back yoke is lined in blue university stripe oxford cloth.  Silk twill, in a handsome rep pattern, is used as trim on the 5 button fly and makes up the back patch to add some of Rugby's signature collegiate aesthetic.  The jean is cut in Rugby's Vintage slim fit - low rise (though they can be worn at your natural waist), trim through the thigh and leg.  The box set not only comes with some serious denim, but a made in Italy silk rep tie and a style manual.  Not that anyone who reads this blog needs a style manual or anything.  It's truly a special package, but don't take my word for it. Check them out for yourself.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: A big thank you goes out to Lance over at Polo Ralph Lauren.]

Made In The USA Shawl Collar Cardigan

Do any search for the above mentioned item and you're not going to turn up much.  Most knits, shawl collar cardigan or not, aren't made here in the states - that's just the reality.  Knits are typically imported to The United States whether they are quality or straight up trash.  While American garment manufacturing is on the decline (this should come as no shock to anyone reading this blog) you can still find pretty much whatever you want made by American factories if you're willing to drop the necessary coin.  Unfortunately, knits rarely seem to find themselves in that category.  At least not with the same frequency as denim or shirting.  That's why I was surprised to find Orvis selling a shawl collar cardigan made right here in the good ol' US of A.  It's made in Fall River, Massachusetts, a hotbed for the remaining knitting mills in America.  I can't say for sure which one makes cardigans for Orvis (CJ Cotton Co.?), but it's nice to see at least one stateside brand trying to keep the tradition alive.  The cardigan, itself, is only $98 and when compared to shit imports selling for similar prices it's not a bad deal at all.  And it is exactly what a cardigan should be - shawl collar, real leather buttons, pure, soft cotton, and ribbed finishing.  If you're looking for something real slim you probably want to look elsewhere.  In typical Orvis fashion this baby starts at a medium and is a more traditionally fitting piece.  Should your cardigan be slim in the first place?  Think about how you plan on layering and get back to me.  And on a separate, but related note, if you want a new shawl collar cardigan you need to check out Orvis' stock. One word - incredible. Thanks for the inspiration Joe.

-L.A.S

Hackett F/W 2010

Hackett's F/W 2010 collection is entitled "In Celebration of Heritage" and, all buzzwords aside, actually seems a tad bit focused on trends.  Shorter and more fitted jacket shapes are the focus here - even according to Hackett themselves.  Luckily, things don't even remotely approach Thom Browne status and the collection actually comes together quite nicely.  It's nothing trailblazing or new, but does stay fairly consistent with the recent image Hackett has been pushing.  Lots of guys familiar with Hackett's rich, and actual, heritage lament the loss of a once great brand who has now gone the way of across the pond Ralph Lauren imitator.  I'm not old enough to remember Hackett's heyday so I'll keep my mouth shut when it comes to that.  All that aside, Hackett's F/W 2010 collection is another exercise in English gentlemanly inspiration, which seems to be trending everywhere recently.  In this case, outdoorsmanship is dropped in favor of a much cleaner, upscale look - think formal wear and lots of tailored pieces.  Select pieces are available now.

-L.A.S

Get Up, Get Down

My buddy Nick, who you may know from ATG, just started a great new project - The Get Up And Get Down.  Nick has created a place on the internet unlike any other.  Despite all the talk of heritage, factories and craftsmanship in the blogosphere there was still no singular place highlighting and compiling true, original craftsmanship.  That's where TGUAGD comes in.  This new focus on the individual - "that person pouring their heart over what's being created in front of them" - will not only direct you to hard working folks making incredible things, but also help you become you own craftsman.  By adding "how to" guides the site not only spotlights those already doing it, but turns the spotlight on you.  It's ambitious. It's challenging. It's the real deal.  Along with all this, collaborations between Nick and the good folks highlighted will add a third engaging dynamic.  I don't know about you, but I'm excited.  Nick has a serious eye for style and it's going to be killer seeing his aesthetic taken to the next level.  So check it out and get involved. Send over your own work. Let the world know what you do. And we'll all be better for it.

-L.A.S