Bass Denton

Most people will tell you that the one item you should refrain from being frugal with is your footwear.  Now, I pretty much agree with this statement, but let's be honest, not everyone can play that game.  If you do happen to find yourself sitting on the bench (see what I just did there) one of the best brands to holler at is Bass.  90% of their kicks come in at under $100 and look damn good - you have to be pretty terrible to mess up classic silhouettes.  We can bitch all day about the corrected grain leather and the questionable welt, but it's better than wearing no shoes at all or, even worse, some monstrosities from Kenneth Cole.  Bass has had their own tasseled loafer out for a while, called the Denton, but they just released it in a burgundy colorway.  I'm always going to take "brown" shoes over black, so I'm finally ready to give these shoes some playing time (see what I just did there, again).   The price of admission is only $69 and while Bass says these are "coming soon" the estimated ship date is actually today.  The tasseled loafer is a shoe I've endorsed before (as do guys like Michael Bastian), so if you're still looking to add one to your starting rotation (I give up at this point) this might be the place to start.

-L.A.S

(capsule) NY: Mark McNairy

I know you probably think you've seen every McNairy shoe under the sun by this point, but Mark came to (capsule) NY with a ton of new styles from both his New Amsterdam and Bass Weejuns line.  Despite all the press and all the collaborations Mark always impresses me with his ability to keep coming up with the craziest, most radical shit.  Like, how about raw denim (Cone Denim) red brick sole chukkas guaranteed to bleed all over your crispy white jeans?  As Mark so eloquently put it, "the only acceptable denim shoe ever."  I should also mention that Mark has transitioned away from using EVA soles in favor of both Dainite and Ridgeway soles.  That means even better durability for shoes that you can't help but want to rock on the reg.  The new made in the U.S.A. Weejun styles were probably the highlight of everything presented.  It's quite possible that with enough support (i.e. press, buys) Bass may come to their senses on all the Weejun nonsense that's been floating around as of late.  Mark is also branching out with a ton of new outerwear, all of which was super technical and military inspired.  If you know anything about this blog you know that Mark McNairy is a personal favorite who never fails to deliver in my eyes.

-L.A.S

Stay Dull

The recent chatter surrounding the Bass Weejun as it stands today has drawn quite a bit of criticism to say the least.  It seems that the majority of people's problem or issue with the modern Weejun is the corrected grain leather, which gives the shoes a shiny, lacquered and ultimately cheap appearance.  I personally have two pairs of Bass Dovers and understand where everyone is coming from.  While the shoes age moderately well they seem to hold onto some of their shine no matter how broken in they get.  Make no mistake about it, this is a deal breaker for some folks.  It should be noted that Bass does sell a Weejun, their Gilman model specifically, with a Vegano leather upper that appears much more natural and less machine processed, if you will, than the other members of the Weejun family.  And if you're really an intense orthodox Trad and your issues go beyond merely the look of the leather, Bass also sells their Jeffery model which is the last made in the U.S.A. Weejun as far as I can tell (not including collaborations with other designers and brands such as Mark McNairy and J. Crew).  I know I wasn't alive in the hey day of the made in the states Weejuns that dominated college campuses up and down the east coast, but a lot of these concerns are just as important to a new generation of Weejun fans.  If you have since given up on Bass based on what you've been reading across the blogosphere it might do you some good to check out a pair in person and decide for yourself.  Just sayin'.

-L.A.S

Bass-hole

The Brockton is easily one of my favorite styles offered by Bass and is my preferred buck for S/S when focusing on value - $65 bucks are straight up highway robbery for such a good looking shoe.  Apparently Bass is quite fond of the Brockton as well as they are releasing the shoe in a variety of new colors.  I'm not sure if this move was motivated by the success of Florsheim by Duckie Brown or the fact that we have more men's style blogs then we know what to do with aka more supposed tastemakers to impress.  You may think I am blowing the importance or influence of the blogosphere out of proportion, but let's be honest, would we have seen a release like this two years ago? One year ago even?  Anyhow, all of these colorways are interesting takes on a classic, but none of them really do it for me.  That probably has to do with the off white sole, which I can't really get down with - a personal choice of course.  Now, if Bass threw that navy suede joint on a red brick sole we would be in business no doubt and, I can't front, that natural leather welt is tasty.  If you're someone who tends to gravitate towards more "fashion-y" kicks (these are undoubtedly "pop" colors), but can't afford something like Rachel Comey you might want to holler.

-L.A.S

Attn: Bass Barret

I don't necessarily have an ego problem, but sometimes I catch myself going "so and so brand should hire me because they have no idea what they are doing".  As much as I may or may not say this, Bass never seems to find its way into that conversation.  While we could bitch all day about Bass taking their production overseas and the overall quality of their shoes there is no denying just how good they look - kinda like that smoking hot chick you dated back in the day who was completely vapid (not sure if that analogy works, but you catch my drift).

Bass' new Barret model is pretty "of the moment" and pretty downright killer.  A suede longwing on a fake-ish Dainite red brick sole from a major lowest common denominator shoemaker?  For 80 smackaroos? Done and done.  Honestly, this may be THE best affordable shoe for S/S.  I found this badboy over at John's blog, which is a daily read of mine.  The dude is straight up hilarious. I mean, he references Kid Cuisine in his most recent post - 'nuf said.  Also, I would be remiss if I didn't think that at some point Bass owed Mark McNairy some royalties or maybe just a thank you note because, let's be honest, it's not like Bass' designers came up with this on their own.  Could this be some sort of spillover from their recent collaboration? Your guess is as good as mine.

-L.A.S

S/S Footwear Primer: Low

Starting tonight and concluding tomorrow I will be presenting (ego check) my S/S footwear primer for anyone out there who is looking for a little advice on what knockabouts to purchase for the upcoming season.  My plan is to start with a guide detailing my "low" picks for those not trying to drop a lot of coin and finish up with all the ritzy stuff.  Ultimately this blog reaches a wide range of people and I just want to make sure everyone is covered.  I realize some of you have already seen a lot of this stuff so read on accordingly.  Also, lots of these shoes (probably all of them actually) have gotten some face time on Sart Inc in the past, but I thought it would be helpful to bring them all together in one convenient location. Oh yeah, I don't do sandals in case you were wondering why I didn't offer them a seat at the cool kids table.  Throw away all your socks and enjoy.  Without further ado I present to you Sartorially Inclined's S/S Footwear Primer: Low...

The Sneaker: 
Vans Authentic...$42.00

I know what you're thinking and the answer is: No, you're not too old to wear Vans.  Warm weather sneakers should be one part canvas, one part classic and no one fits the bill better than Vans.  The Authentic is the epitome of iconic and understated.  You can get them in a variety of colors though I am going to recommend you take the natural route.  Don't worry if you don't skate as the Authentic is a lifestyle shoe first and foremost.  If you like to relax and drink outdoors on the weekend you're all good.

The Boat Shoe:
Sperry Authentic Original...$75.00

 

Why you would buy your boat shoes from anyone else is beyond me.  Everything I've ever needed to say about the Authentic Original (especially in the above colorway) I've already said.

The Buck:
Bass Brockton...$64.00

 

Go with white and don't be afraid to get them messy.  And when they get scuffed as all hell you'll be real happy that you spent under seventy bones.  The Bass Brockton has a great toe box and sole, but be aware that these ship out in May.

The Moccassin:

L.L. Bean Blucher...$69.00 

 

When I first started writing this blog (my fourth day in the blogosphere to be exact) I tried to bring these "back". Turns out they weren't only back, but they were the absolute shit. Nobody told me.  I'll never make the same mistake again.

The Loafer:

Sebago Classic...$130.00

You know you want to look like you just stepped out of "Take Ivy" and there is no better starting point than a great loafer.  Everyone's jocking Bass these days so why not grab Sebago's classic beef roll penny?  A bunch of colors (even the elusive navy), and the option for either a finished or unfinished sole seal the deal.

The Saddle:
Bass Burlington...$89.00

 

Whether you want a serious two tone or to keep it in the same color family, Bass has you covered.  And, like any great S/S shoe, they all come complete with a red brick sole.  Count it now and when they ship out in March (someone at Bass needs to get a handle on seasonal demand).

The Boot:

L.L. Bean Boot Rubber Moc...$59.00 

I realize these aren't "boots" in the traditional sense, but it does rain in spring and you need to be prepared.  Do I really need to explain this pick? Yeah, didn't think so.

-L.A.S

Debate: G.H. Bass & Company for J. Crew vs. Sebago

These debate posts seem well-received so...let's get it on!  Beef-roll penny loafers are a warm weather staple and along with J. Crew's new addition from G.H. Bass & Co., Sebago has just released their own interpretation (Christian at Ivy Style with the assist) .  I'm particularly curious about this specific match-up because it brings to light the whole "how much would you pay for domestic manufacturing" argument.

In one corner we have the G.H. Bass made in the USA loafer available for $280 and in the other a similar Sebago interpretation for $130.  Aside from everyone weighing in on what obviously looks better (i.e. Sebago's shoe coming in a bunch of colorways), anyone care to rationalize the $150 domestic manufacturing markup? Have at it kids.

G.H. Bass & Company Classic Gordon Weejuns

vs.

Sebago Classic Beef-Roll Penny Moc

-L.A.S

[Editor's note: Mr. Schenck of Mister Crew alerted me to a pair of RL made in the USA beef-roll penny's for $150. These seem like the best option of the bunch.]

Eyelets

One of the reasons I believe duffel/toggle coats and fireman/cameraman coats are so popular is due to their unique closure hardware.  When it comes to spending a lot on clothes I guess the devil is in the details.  In the same vein as the aforementioned coats, there are some cool shoes coming out this S/S that utilize this very same concept.  Stalwart designers and brands, such as Mark McNairy and Yuketen, are releasing shoes that expand on the traditional eyelet and lacing systems you see on most shoes.  Being that I'm not the biggest fan of other unique kicks I am pretty stoked that some folks out there are rethinking how we tie our shoes (at the very least how these elements look).  Details like these make an interesting argument, either for or against depending on your point of view, in regards to utilitarianism.  For now I'll just stick with "super cool".

 

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Seeing all this unconventional eyelets/lacing has me thinking of these when they first came out.  I guess it's just my inner hooligan.]

Mystery Shoe Solved...Well, Sorta

[Pictured: "Mystery" L.L. Bean boots courtesy of New Grass.]

If you read New Grass, you may very well be aware of a conundrum that has arrisen this past week.  Apparently while browsing through a recent L.L. Bean catalog a fine boot specimen (see above) was found with absoultely no information about the model or price.  One could only assume it was of the L.L. Bean variety considering it was highly unlikely they would put anything but their own products in their catalog.  I commented how it looked like something from Russel Moccassin Co. and it was eventually determined that the boot was Bean's Ranger moc (currently not available for purchase).

Well, this morning I was browsing some online shops and came across the Bass M Ranger boot, which happens to look exactly like the mystery boot in question.  The Bass version is available at Opening Ceremony (3 colorways) and is part of the the Chloë Sevigny callaboration line (on a side not: how the hell did she make that happen).  So New Grass, if you are reading this, I think we can officially say, "Case closed. Sorta."

-L.A.S

Affordable Classics: G.H. Bass & Co.

[Pictured: The G.H. Bass & Co. shoe factory in Wilton, ME.  Picture courtesy of Wikipedia (which is kinda like a thief thanking a burglar).]

Bass shoes have been on the up and up for quite some time thanks to the modernization of many of their classics.  While Bass has always had heritage in spades, their outdated selection had them relegated to a realm of lameness occupied by irrelevant brands such as Hush Puppies.  Thankfully the brass over at Bass (clever, no?) listened to the throngs of customers clamoring for archival styles and hit back with some of the best bang for your buck shoes available right now.

Since 1870 Bass has been devoted to "capturing the essence of American casual and weekend footwear" and as a guy who feels comfortable in saddle shoes and bucks after I ditch the tie and punch out, I couldn't agree more.  These shoes aren't going to last you a lifetime, but they are cheap enough that it doesn't really matter all that much.  Good looking and American spirited is good enough for me.  I'd buy multiple pairs of the following.  All of which are available here.

Brockton...$64

   

Is it too early to start dreaming about white bucks?  My love for bucks has been well documented in past posts and when you break it all down these are the best available for those on a budget and who isn't these days?  Get a white pair and keep them pristine for spring or just get them dirty as hell because that's way cooler.

Burlington...$89

You may have seen these on Valet or Unabashedly Prep.  Saddle shoes appear to be "having a moment", one of which I can fully get behind.  The Burlington has a streamlined vamp and toe so you look more Gatsby than grandpa.  I'm particularly endorsing the above color since its off white and brown colors toe the line between warm weather and cool weather wear.  KJ, if you're reading this, thanks for sending these to me at 7:48 am.

Dover...$125

GQ's mancrush on these sleek, modern Weejuns has gotten out of control in recent months.  Nearly every one of their fashion spreads feature at least one pair of these glossy gems.  You wont find me pretending like I don't own both a black and burgundy pair which I wear to work most days of the week.  Purists will scoff at the leather and sleeker toe, but let 'em.  They're just pissed because you get more girls than they do.

Amsterdam...$79

Back when Sart Inc was brand spanking new and just learning to say its first words, the Chelsea boot made a cameo.  Leave it to the Americans to take a British shoe and completely undercut them in price.  For 79 smakaroos this is highway robbery.  You can wear these boots casual or formal, denim or slacks, guitar or guitar hero...it doesn't matter. 

-L.A.S