In Their Own Words: J. Press For Urban Outfitters

Just a few days after the new J. Press for Urban Outfitters pre-order disappeared as mysteriously as it was leaked, we now have some concrete information on behalf of the two brands via Urban Outfitters' PR department:

"We wanted to recreate the height of traditional Ivy League style in the early '60s," says design director, Mikito Takeshima. Drawing on influences from the film Animal House and the popular television show Happy Days, the 20-piece collection offers preppy casuals mixed with classic basics and relaxed styling. The exclusive line includes solid and striped oxfords, slim-fit pants, a Black Watch tartan golf jacket, and a wool vest, alongside several collegiate accessories such as a Dartmouth scarf, Princeton tie, and Cornell belt."

Yeah, I know.  It's your typical press release, but at least we have some concrete info.  Namely, Mikito Takeshima is now the dude with the most difficult job in menswear and that the 20 piece collection will probably reemerge closer to its December release date.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Intel courtesy of Nico -  "I have an item saved in my shopping cart and it says 'Pre-order 11/19/10 12:00 AM' in fine print below, so I'm assuming that's when the collection will be available online again."]

Attn: Mark McNairy for PRO-Keds Now Available

While you're digging around UO's site looking for all that new J. Press gear you love to hate (it's still there, I promise) make sure to check out Mark McNairy's collaboration with PRO-Keds that was first announced back in January.  UO stocked up on the better colorways that feature vibrant suede and natural gum soles - Mark's take on red brick sole for sneakers.  The sneakers come in at $100, but that's not incredibly ridiculous, especially considering these sneakers are most likely never going to get made again.  I know for a fact some of you style guys used to be sneakerheads so I am sure at least a few of you appreciate what is going on here.  These PRO-Keds retain all the great parts of an exclusive sneaker drop, while maintaining the classic aesthetic that should be a necessity when buying sneakers in the first place.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Beat the system before it's too late.]

J. Press For Urban Outfitters

When a source at Urban Outfitters told me they had a crazy collaboration in the works I never thought for a second it would involve one of the oldest and most revered clothiers in American menswear.  All that stuff we were debating was just the tip of the iceberg, folks.  Stocking up on McNairy saddles is one thing, but a J. Press co-sign in the form of an exclusive diffusion line is a whole new ballgame.  And this isn't just some one off, this is a serious collection of good looking basics - like, really good looking.  UO is calling the collection "a full line of new heritage menswear created exclusively for UO by Ivy League clothier J. Press."  The good ol' h-word isn't going away any time soon.  We're only at the pre-order stage just yet so there is no telling how well this stuff is made or how it compares to J. Press' mainline.  The one thing we do know is that everything here appears to be updated in terms of fit.  Pants have a 8" leg opening and the jackets are definitely of the shorter variety.  I'm looking forward to seeing all this stuff in person and will probably pick up a few pieces thanks to the mall-esque pricing.  I'm curious to see just how long this little partnership is going to last.  They say opposites attract and this is one hell of an odd couple.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Plan on pre-prdering? Use promo code "DAWNOFTHEDEAL" for $25 off.]

Debate: Urban Outfitters And A Shift Towards Mass Market Quality

Urban Outfitters is no stranger to paradigm shifts within menswear, which is a fancy way of saying that they have a reputation of staying on top of trends in a specific marketplace.  Not too long ago you could get an ironic neon tee for every day of the week.  As the preppy/Americana boom has taken hold over the past few years UO has tailored their offerings as such.  For the most part all mass retail is reactive as oppose to proactive so this should come as no surprise to anyone who even has a slight interest in all this stuff.  But what interests me the most is that instead of simply selling low quality cookie cutter ripoffs, UO has slowly built up a stock of impressive high quality brands specializing in the above mentioned aesthetic.  What started with Quoddy and Billykirk has now ballooned to a selection that includes Monitaly and various other brands one might not expect to see at such a retail location.  I don't think anyone is expecting Urban Outfitters to become Context or Blackbird overnight, but could we be looking at a Opening Ceremony-esque evolution?  Meaning, a store that specializes in trends, but focuses on up and coming brands known for their quality.  Does quality only exist in this case because, well, the idea of quality (products with "stories" and heritage) is pretty damn trendy right now?  In five years will UO's products look completely different then they do today?  In the business of making money can a large chain simultaneously run with a respectable image? Or rebuild their image?  Should we commend these guys for bringing smaller brands to a new customer?  Sound off if you feel so inclined.

A selection of brands currently offered at Urban Outfitters:
-Quoddy
-Monitaly
-Gant Rugger
-Mark McNairy New Amsterdam
-Rogues Gallery/Never Sleep
-Billykirk/The Brothers Bray
-Steven Alan/Lark & Wolff

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: I think a big part of this discussion is UO's partnership with brands to create less expensive diffusion lines (i.e. Never Sleep, The Brothers Bray and Lark & Wolff).]

Trim And Quilted

If you've ever owned a traditional puffer/down vest you already know the pros and cons - the thing is insanely warm and functional, but it also makes you look about 20 pounds overweight.  It's a form vs. function argument at its very core.  Fortunately, there is a middle ground for someone trying to reconcile both of these attributes.  What normally seemed reserved for higher end European brands (i.e. Cucinelli) has slowly, but surely found its way to a cheaper demographic.  I'm talking, of course, about trimmed up quilted outerwear.  It keeps the insulation of your puffer intact, while streamlining things for an even greater versatility.  Instead of being limited as an outermost layer, outwear of this variety can easily work as an intermediate layer too - wear it under your jacket on a frigid day or utilize it as your outermost layer during the first signs of fall.  There are lots of styles to choose from depending on your aesthetic or wardrobe needs.  From tailored waistcoats to shirt jackets, there are a good amount of options floating around.  I personally like Barbour's options (keep in mind that they have been doing this kind of thing for a long time so they've pretty much perfected it at this point), but that's just me.  You shouldn't have too many issues spending under $100, but there are also middle of the range pieces for those of you with a tad more disposable income (see: Wings + Horns F/W 2010 I talked about the other day).  The idea of keeping your clothing trim isn't necessarily new for a lot of you, so consider this nothing more than a reminder that your quilted outerwear can be just like the rest of your wardrobe - streamlined, stylish and, most of all, functional.

-L.A.S

Not Exactly A Penny, But...

...pretty cheap basics nonetheless.  This morning Valet did a quick write up on Penny Stock, a new brand available at Blackbird, UO and 80's Purple, specializing in cheap basics.  I'm not sure how many of you read the piece so I figured it might make sense to highlight these guys over here as well.  Penny Stock is a new west coast brand who has just launched on the back of affordable, classic menswear.  Chinos, oxfords, chambrays and polos are well represented, each coming in under the $100 mark.  It's great to see a new brand get support from stockists this early in the game and me thinks this is a positive sign pointing towards a brand we will be seeing much more of in the future.  Anytime someone decides to make well priced, year round classics (not to mention great detailing), tossing a little love their way is the least I can do.  And honestly, it doesn't get much better than tab front chinos - forget belts.

-L.A.S

An Espadrille For Every Occasion

After walking around NYC for the past four days it has occurred to me that sometimes you need to ditch your hardbottoms for something a little more jaunt friendly.  There's nothing wrong with a good pair of sneakers either, but after seeing some dudes killing it in espadrilles I figured I'd take a stab and pick up a pair.  If anyone else is looking for a new pair of espadrilles your options are pretty deep to say the least.  For those of you who happen to be straight up ballers you can head over to Stubbs & Wootton to pick up a pair of their $200 joints that come in camo, madras, linen, etc.  The price tag is astronomical on a shoe you can get on any NYC street corner, but the fabric, construction and vamp styling (like that of a formal slipper) may just be the thing you are looking to pair with your Finamore seersucker shirts.  Some other options, in varying price ranges and styles, are available here and here.  Since this is a relatively new style move by yours truly (I've never messed with TOMS or anything like that) I went with the $14 navy joints at Urban Outfitters as a test run.  For other first timers I recommend sticking with solid, wearable colors because once you start veering into Glenn O'Brien territory all bets are off - no kit is sacred.  It's difficult to figure out where some of these are made and an "imported" tag is most likely all you're going to turn up.  That could mean south of the border or Asia, so cross your fingers that they're made by the same folks who wear 'em to work.  I can see these looking real crispy with a freshly creased pair of chinos with no break and a Hanes white tee.  So who's buying those cruise tickets?

-L.A.S

Attn: Mark McNairy For Urban Outfitters

In what looks like to be his last collaboration for a while as he transitions over to Woolrich Woolen Mills, Mark McNairy has teamed up with Urban Outfitters to release 3 exclusive collaborative shoes from his New Amsterdam line.  On top of this word has it that he will also design an exclusive line of affordable footwear co-branded with UO called Good Souls - sounds like the little brother of his Red Brick Soul collection.  The current collaborations range from $328 to $368 and feature a leather cap toe boot, a wedge sole longwing and a red brick saddle shoe.  I know you guys are probably sick of hearing about all of Mark's collaborations, but this Good Souls line is some pretty big news for both Mark and UO.  A few months ago I heard rumored discussions were taking place between these two parties and I'm still kinda surprised they ended up working together. Friends with benefits rule.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Read more from the two parties involved here.]

The Revolution...

...will not be televised, but will feature cheap as hell cropped chinos - or at least thats what Dockers and Urban Outfitters wants us to believe.  Reports from the recent Dockers launch party in NYC focused on how the brand was moving forward in an attempt to appeal to more style minded folks.  Their new Ankle Chino sits at the heart of this push.  Dockers slimmest pant yet is a flat front cotton chino that comes pre-tapered with a 30" inseam for an off the rack Mashburn effect.  Not only that, but they come in a variety of colors (including the coveted Nantucket red) enabling you to literally get a pair for every day of the week if you saw fit and at $49 a pop that's not too much of a stretch.  UO's styling shows the pants both rolled and unrolled and while rolling a 30 inch inseam is bordering on manpri status letting the pants rest naturally right at the ankle is something I can get down with (aka the aforementioned Mashburn effect) - straight lines are an easy route to a handsome and flattering look.  Even if this is a sartorial maneuver you are unsure of the pants are cheap enough that you could conceivably cop a pair for a "test drive". The strangest thing  for me is that the inseams don't increase with waist size, even a little, according to the product information virtually eliminating taller guys from copping these - if you're any taller than, say, 6'2" I would be wary of sniping.  Surely this is a bold move for such a traditional brand, but a move that will definitely help Dockers appeal to a younger, much more style oriented demographic.

[Picture courtesy of The GQ Eye.]

-L.A.S

511 Ways To Save

511 might be an exaggeration so how about 1 instead?  The arguement surrounding the best cut of Levi's is a wholly personal one depending on age, style and the like.  Everyone's got their favorite and that's fine by me - I am open enough that I can see all their merits.  With that said, I think the 511 are winners, especially the "trousers".  A few times on this blog I have refered to the 511 cut as a tad "hipster-ish" and I am sure a lot of you will probably agree.  They are one the skinnier side, but by buying the 511's in a cotton twill, as oppose to denim, I think you help alleviate some of that hipness.  Not to mention Angelo swears by them and an endorsement of his is A-Ok in my book. 

The struggle to find a great pair of trim chinos, and for a reasonable price nonetheless, is an epic one - one which I have blogged about in the earlier days of Sart Inc.  Now I realize not everyone has 90 bones to drop on such a casual pant, so in the interest of those folks I felt it would be good to highlight the 511, which can be sniped at UO or Levi's.  If the 511 and its slim tappered leg is a little too slim for you it might be advantageous to check out the 514 trousers which rock a much more straight fit.  And if you're currently reading this because you finally got a second away from that nagging wife and rambunctious youngin's then you're probably scoffing at my nonsense in your 501's - I kid, I kid.

-L.A.S

Hater Blockers, Not So Much

As I sit here packing up my own 649's for another quick jaunt it seems appropriate that I should stumble across this little number (also in black) from Urban Outfitters.  I know, I know - buy the real thing. Just remember that it can be pretty taxing when the real thing easily costs more than any single item in the average guy's closet.  It's one thing to rip off a classic and sell it for more money, but when you are peddling affordable style who am I to judge?  I guess if you are going to wear blatant designer rip off shades better they be Persol than some Gucci or Prada stunna shade nonsense.  I would still start saving up my money now though because when UO starts selling this model in 20 different colors it's time to step up to the real thing or you'll end up looking like a preteen who got lost in the douchebag section of their local H&M (see: wannabee Wayfarers).  If you're looking for hater blockers, you definitely came to the wrong place.

-L.A.S

For The Poor and Stylish: Unbranded Denim

Exclusive to Urban Outfitters and made by the same folks who produce Naked & Famous denim, Unbranded are for those looking to get their ass into a pair of raw selvedge without breaking the bank.  All three styles, ranging from a hipster-ish skinny to a more 514-ish slim straight, are under 80 bones and contain no branding whatsoever, hence the name.  They are an extremely basic, no frills jean featuring 14.5 oz of Japanese denim, copper-top hardware and a blank leather patch.  The idea behind this collection is pretty cool - entry level selvedge that is about the denim, itself, and nothing more.  I mean, even the back leather patch and pockets are completely untouched.  If a pair of APC's seem a little pricey and you can't get your hands on the selvedge 514's from Levi's (currently out of stock again on their website) Unbranded seems like a pretty good move.  Garments should never be exclusive anyhow, especially when it's a staple for every guy's wardrobe.  I really appreciate what the folks at Naked & Famous are doing for the fiscally challenged and chalk this up to another equally shrewd and genius move by Urban Outfitters.  Even with consumer tendencies trending towards a return to "quality", completely undercutting the entire market is a clever economical move.  Damn the hipsters and their one semester at a liberal arts college!

-L.A.S

Seeing Red

Much has already been said on Urban Outfitters getting their hands on a Quoddy account.  I've heard everything from "Quoddy has jumped the shark" to "this is worse than Red Wing at American Apparel" - blah, blah, blah.  I'm not here to comment too much on the matter because it's just as complicated as anytime a beloved niche gets blow open to the public (I will go on record that I am all about Billykirk's diffusion line, The Brothers Bray, for UO because their standard gear is way too rich for my blood, but that's a different story for a different day).  Though part of me doubts whatever fauxhemians shop at Urban Outfitters will actually spend $200+ on a pair of moccasins one cannot deny that Quoddy is indeed widening its net and when you break it down UO is actually doing the exact same thing.  Much like the recent genius moves by J. Crew, Urban Outfitters is positioning itself to appeal to a more sartorial minded and well informed customer that in the past probably wouldn't think twice about actually spending any money there.  Alright, enough waxing poetic...

The actual Quoddy selection at UO is pretty thin, but they are carrying an exclusive red suede blucher which looks like the bastard love child between Tod's and the state of Maine.  These kicks, like any good GTH piece, have a real badass self awareness to them that elevates them above tomfoolery as far as I am concerned.  What really sets them apart from other colored shoes, like Tod's driving shoes, is that they have a classic American aesthetic as oppose to something from across the pond which can often feel too pretentious.  Let's be honest, a sartorial snob is probably going to stick his nose up at you for shopping at Urban Outfitters, but at least you'll have cooler shoes.

-L.A.S

Fall Looks: Bundled Up (Part 2 of 2) - Gloves

I have absolutely no need for gloves in Charlotte, but since I'm not that ego-centric I put together my favorite offerings for this F/W.  Coming from the considerbly cooler Northeast originally, I know a thing or two about a great pair of gloves (as if there is really anything to know in the first place).  I personally prefer fingerless or convertible options because they are much more functional and you look that much cooler.  I put together a bunch of different price points and styles, but as you know with gloves they typically fall into two categories: hi-tech and classic.  As with everything else that has ever made it onto Sart Inc, my picks skew towards the classic.  I've listed materials in parentheses because a man should know what he's getting himself, and his hands, into.  Buy one of these and safely remove your hands from your pants...

Asos Fair Isle Design Fingerless (100% Acrylic)...$10.47

While I don't recommend matching these up with your awesome new fair isle sweater, these gloves are a cheap way to inject a little seasonal flair (excuse my word choice) into your getup.  They may be the cheapest of the bunch, don't forget these badboys ship from the UK.

Penfield Knitted Fingerless Mitten (100% Acrylic)...$31.40

Leave it to Penfield to make the only mittens that are even remotely cool.  You know you are getting great quality from these guys, but kudos the MA brand on the details.  I'm really into these red accents.  Just like above, keep in mind shipping as these are from a UK retailer.

Urban Outfitters Herringbone Gloves (Polyurethane, Acrylic)...$28.00

The poor man's herring bone blazer you can wear on your hands!  Faux suede included!  In all seriousness, for under $30 you are unlikely to find a dandier pair of gloves.  We all know class is an illusion anyway...right?

Filson Merino Wool Fingerless Gloves (84% Merino Virgin Wool, 11% Nylon, 3% Acrylic, 2% Lycra)...$22.00

If I was actually buying gloves these Filson fingerless options would be my go to.  A fingerless design in classic gray with real deal, made in the U.S.A quality.  Perfect in their simplicity. Perfect in their functionality.

Steven Alan Wool Camp Glove (Wool, Leather, 100% Cashmere lined)...$125.00

You may have already seen these floating around the blogosphere at some point because they are Steven Alan and his products demand attention.  If you take your gloves as seriously as, say, your jackets then these are the gloves for you (I mean, that is Woolrich plaid).  Like everything Steven Alan makes, it's all about the genius reinterpretation of our staple items.  In this case, peep the thumb slit for easy and stylish iPhoning, Blackberrying and texting your bff's. 

[Bonus]
Orvis Trigger Finer Uplander Glove (Leather)...$59.00

The swagger that comes from wearing a glove with a trigger finger (a magnet holds the finger back in place!) is undeniably priceless.  Great for busting caps and picking your nose...not necessarily in that order.

-L.A.S

Long Weekend Jaunt: The Dash

[All packed and ready to roll.]

Sartorially Inclined is headed out to lovely Winston-Salem, NC for the first of many homecomings.  Posting will resume Monday, although I cannot say how good the content is actually going to be considering experts are projecting a 3-5 day hangover.  The Brothers Bray: check. Volkswagon Passat: check. Alumnus status: check. Cheers!

-L.A.S

Stumbled Across: Weekend In The Woods

Some cool stuff I have stumbled across recently and my corresponding thoughts...

Field and Stream SLB Shirt...$52.00

[Photography courtesy of men.style.com]

Work/outdoor shirts are getting so much love this fall and it's easy to see why...these shirts are pure, unadulterated Americana (aka badass).  I particularly like this Field and Stream SLB shirt due to its authenticity, utility and detailing.  Click on the link to see all the awesome stitching and little exciting things this shirt has to offer.  I love the coal black colorway, which gives the shirt just a hint of "fashion-y" sensibility.  Instead of shelling out $100+ for some designers take on a shirt that was never ment to see the elements, spend half on the real deal.  By the way, SLB means "strong like bull"...did I mention how badass this shirt is?

The Brothers Bray & Co. (Billy Kirk x Urban Outfitters) Weekender...$98

 

[Photograph courtesy of acquiremag.com]

Here at Sartorially Inclined we have sung the praises of the awesome collaboration between the guys at Billy Kirk and Urban Outfitters.  Here is the latest luggage accessory from the pair and boy is it a winner.  I am currently waiting for my Brothers Bray tote to get delivered, but I am kinda wishing I had waited and gotten this instead.  The Weekender is another beautifully simple canvas and leather offering with great details (red vinyl lining).  You can expect this to go on backorder quicker then you can roast a marshmellow so act fast if it's something you covet.  To read more about the callaboration check out this interview (via selectism.com)  with Chris Bray of Billy Kirk.

ASOS Leather Hiking Boots...$63.83

I love this shoe because it is a hybrid that actually takes the BEST parts of a bunch of shoes and creates something equally, if not, better (the sum IS the whole of its parts).  You'll notice the obvious nods to blucher mocs, classic sneakers, and traditional hiking boots.  These hiking boots (this description should be taken with a grain of salt...much more conducive for a stroll in the city than a hike up the side of a mountain) are the essence of versatility and will work with all your fall looks.  It's great that Asos is offering an inexpensive shoe that will go equally as great with your raw denim as your wool trousers.  This is a must buy as far as Sartorially Inclined is concerned.

-L.A.S