Debate: The Rise Of Gilt Manual

I ran this quick piece on my Tumblr earlier this week, but I wanted to repost it here.  The moves Gilt, and subsequently their editorial site, is making are down right impressive and I wanted to see if anyone had any insight or thoughts to add to the discussion...

"Word just broke that Josh Peskowitz has jumped ship from Esquire and has joined the already impressive staff over at Gilt Manual.  He joins Andy Comer, formerly of GQ, and Jared Flint, formerly of Antenna, as the newest members of Editorial Director Tyler Thoreson’s dream team.  With each passing week Gilt Manual’s masthead seems to grow with the best and brightest talent in menswear journalism.  One can only imagine the stock options being thrown at these guys [Editor's note: gross speculation] and once Gilt Groupe goes public there are gonna be a lot of 'rich, former menswear editors' as a friend put it.  Gilt Manual is quickly becoming the Miami Heat of this menswear shit.

Josh Peskowitz joins a lineup already flush with household names.  Seriously, Gilt Manual’s masthead reads like a menswear nerd’s fantasy blog team:

-Tyler Thoreson
-Andy Comer
-Jared Flint
-Gay Talese
-Mordechai Rubenstein
-Joshua David Stein
-Michael Williams
-Jake Davis"

We haven't had a lively discussion around these parts in a while so have at it.  Do you read Gilt Manual?  Where does Esquire go from here?  Is this definitive proof that menswear print media in the USA is dead?  Is this all part of Gilt's masterplan to take over the blogosphere ala Bloggercon 2010?

-L.A.S

Debate: Rugby's "New Trad" And Sartorial Signifiers

Oh man, here's one the purists are probably going to want to tear apart.  Rugby is advertising a selection of their new F/W 2010 arrivals as "The New Trad".  Side note: can trad even be new?  While this particular marketing choice of a specific buzzword was obviously an opportune one considering the current popularity of such an aesthetic, I think it is a tad bit ill advised.  When Rugby says Trad they mean "dapper dishevelment" (their own words), not necessarily traditional menswear.  And I think many of us will agree that these two things are not necessarily synonymous.  A quick perusal of these new offerings easily confirms this.  It's nothing new in the grand scheme of Rugby's brand.  "Trad" isn't really present here at all.  Instead we see the nuevo-prep we're all used to at this point.  So scratch "The New Trad" and insert "The New Prep" because that's exactly what's going on.  Poor semantics?  Maybe.  But then again all that shit is subjective so maybe you feel differently.  Or maybe you're just pissed I used the word "trad" in a post.  Maybe you're pissed I used the word "prep" in a post.  Anyone who would like to discuss sartorial signifiers please direct yourself to the comments.

-L.A.S

Debate: Urban Outfitters And A Shift Towards Mass Market Quality

Urban Outfitters is no stranger to paradigm shifts within menswear, which is a fancy way of saying that they have a reputation of staying on top of trends in a specific marketplace.  Not too long ago you could get an ironic neon tee for every day of the week.  As the preppy/Americana boom has taken hold over the past few years UO has tailored their offerings as such.  For the most part all mass retail is reactive as oppose to proactive so this should come as no surprise to anyone who even has a slight interest in all this stuff.  But what interests me the most is that instead of simply selling low quality cookie cutter ripoffs, UO has slowly built up a stock of impressive high quality brands specializing in the above mentioned aesthetic.  What started with Quoddy and Billykirk has now ballooned to a selection that includes Monitaly and various other brands one might not expect to see at such a retail location.  I don't think anyone is expecting Urban Outfitters to become Context or Blackbird overnight, but could we be looking at a Opening Ceremony-esque evolution?  Meaning, a store that specializes in trends, but focuses on up and coming brands known for their quality.  Does quality only exist in this case because, well, the idea of quality (products with "stories" and heritage) is pretty damn trendy right now?  In five years will UO's products look completely different then they do today?  In the business of making money can a large chain simultaneously run with a respectable image? Or rebuild their image?  Should we commend these guys for bringing smaller brands to a new customer?  Sound off if you feel so inclined.

A selection of brands currently offered at Urban Outfitters:
-Quoddy
-Monitaly
-Gant Rugger
-Mark McNairy New Amsterdam
-Rogues Gallery/Never Sleep
-Billykirk/The Brothers Bray
-Steven Alan/Lark & Wolff

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: I think a big part of this discussion is UO's partnership with brands to create less expensive diffusion lines (i.e. Never Sleep, The Brothers Bray and Lark & Wolff).]

Debate: Wings + Horns Wears It On Their Sleeve

Wings + Horns has always been one of my favorite brands out of Canada thanks to their clean, wearable and minimalist take on menswear.  After checking out a preview of their F/W 2010 collection, which can be seen over at The Bengal Stripe, I was impressed as per usual.  Looking at the collection a little more today it became very clear that this season W+H was wearing their influences on their sleeve, especially when it came to the outerwear.  I'm not sure about you, but I see a good amount of Brunello Cucinelli, Junya Watanabe and even Daiki Suzuki (Woolrich Woolen Mills specifically) in some of these pieces.  That's not necessarily a bad thing considering Wings + Horns is going to make a lot of this stuff a lot more "affordable" than the stuff apparently being used as inspiration.  I'd love to hear some of your thoughts on this.  A big win for Wings + Horns? Who did it best? Couldn't care less? Also, if discourse is your thing be sure to click the debate tag at the bottom of the post for similar discussions from the archives.

[Pictures courtesy of Roden Gray.]

-L.A.S

Debate: The Gingham Sportcoat

J. Crew is calls it a "sharp take on a summer staple". I call it bold as hell especially considering the novelty factor, but figuring in the under $200 price tag I can actually see people buying this thing.  Is a gingham sportcoat even really a surprise at this point?  Why discriminate when various other patterns and types of cotton have already been elevated to sportcoat status?  Now that I think about it this would actually look quite dapper when paired with a crispy white shirt and some chinos.  So who's on board and who's gulping down some haterade?

-L.A.S

Debate: Jack Goes Sailing

The classic white sneaker has gone through quite a few facelifts in its storied existence and the Jack Purcell is no stranger to this.  Its latest reincarnation comes in the form of a boatshoe now available from Converse for $70.  The debate aspect of all this obviously comes from the fact that I am on the fence about these.  Part of me thinks the JP should not be messed with, but at the same time I think this could also be a pretty sweet alternative to, say, a pair of Sperry Bahamas or Seamates (a whole different debate in itself).  I have no idea how much boating Jack actually did in his lifetime so can't say for sure how he would feel about the most recent addition to his footwear canon.  Should Jack go sailing or keep his feet dry?

-L.A.S

Debate: The Under Truck

So J. Crew F/W 2010 hit it out of the park as per usual these days - super wearable, understated and just flat out classic.  Everyone's already talked about it so there's not point in my rehashing of all the accolades.  What I do want to talk about is a curious catalog styling choice that has me a tad dumbfounded.

J. Crew's styling as of late, just like their collections, has been great.  They've kept things current and clever while still balancing the often overlooked factor of what is actually stylish and pratical when you leave your house.  They layer expertly and have a knack for combining items that most guys wouldn't think of pairing.  It's one of the rare cases where a lookbook or catalog can actually serve as a reference point for your average guy and that is saying a lot especially when viewed against what other brands are putting out there.  With that said, I cannot seem to get over the choice of wearing a Levi's trucker jacket under your suit.  Is there anyone in the entire world that actually does something like this?  Where could you possibly be going or possibly doing in such a getup?  The down vest under your suit jacket look is borderline enough already - why try and push the envelop?  This seems incredibly foolish (i.e. trying way too hard) to me, but I figured that there had to be someone out there who disagrees.  And maybe even someone who could make a convincing argument for this look.  Nothing is set in stone these days anyway.

-L.A.S

Debate: The Short Sleeve Sweatshirt

For as often as the short sleeve sweatshirt shows up in countless McQueen style montages bloggers have been relatively gun shy on the issue.  I, myself, think it is a cool idea in theory, but acknowledge that it is difficult to pull off - just ask Bill "The Human Boner" Belichick (granted I'm not talking about the hooded variety since we all know it can't hold a candle to the classic crew neck).  I can see the arguments both for and against.  On one hand you have the sloppy and "trying too hard" school of thought you often get when bringing up sweats in the first place and on the other side the classic cool camp who reps for this kind of gear consistently.   The practicality of this sartorial maneuver seems linked to chillier summer nights just like any warm weather top layer - you know, the whole "keep your core warm, stay warm" thing.  To get this look today you're more than likely going to have to cut the sleeves off of a standard crew neck unless you're fond of Rugby's branding (wait, you're not in "Skull and Snakes" club bro?) as they are the only option I found while doing the half-assed research that goes into every post (update: resident EG scholar Mister Crew has pointed me towards some older versions from Daiki).  What do you guys think? Leave it to Steve or let 'em breath?

-L.A.S

Debate: What Is A Banana Republic?

Today James tweeted, "In almost 2 years of reading these blogs, [I] don't think I have seen anyone hype Banana Republic once. That cant be good..."  He makes a great point and while I have mentioned BR every now and then through a highlighted product or two they really fail to get any blog love whatsoever - I would even surmise that I have seen more press for Old Navy.  Many times I have checked out their website looking for cool stuff to share with you guys and have come away completely empty handed, even when BR debuted their own "heritage collection".  You could make the argument that their suiting options are decent, but is it just the lesser of evils?  I am in no means trying to be a hater (hell, I'm all about Gap), I'm just trying to get a handle on this whole thing.  

Anyhow, I've obviously been thinking a lot about this today and this is what I have come up with: Banana Republic exists in a pseudo universe where all men are dressed by women.  Seriously, browse the website and see if you disagree.  I'd love to hear your thoughts.

-L.A.S 


[Editor's Note: Yes, I realize that Gap owns Banana Republic and Old Navy.]

Debate: "The Age Of Monocle Man"

My buddy AC tipped me off to a pretty interesting piece exploring what MENSWEAR dubs "the age of the Monocle man."  I'll be honest, I never really considered this current "movement" of menswear on par with such tomfoolery as metrosexual-sim, and while I still don't, this article does make a decent point.  Is this all just a tad more authentic metrosexual movement? Thoughts?

-L.A.S

[Editor's note: In case you were wondering "Po-faced" means someone who has a face like a toilet.] 

Debate: Woolrich Wollen Mills vs. Patagonia

Daiki came real strong with surf style for the S/S 2010 Woolrich Woolen Mills collection and while I am beyond down with it all, I was extremely surprised to see him totally rip off the iconic Patagonia Snap-T pullover with his Ricon pullover.  Whether or not WWM's lack of branding and fit is worth a whopping 134 dollar premium is up for debate.  Regardless, the jacket in question has one of my favorite silhouettes of all time and is a great piece of warm weather outerwear perfect for nights on the beach if you are lucky enough to be involved in such activities.  For the first time ever I am inclined to go against arguably my favorite brand based on the absurd price mark up and what appears to be unabashed sniping.  Reverence or penance?

Woolrich Woolen Mills

vs.

Patagonia

-L.A.S

Debate: Nautical Prints

If you're a fan of nautical steeze, much like myself, you've been one happy camper recently.  From entire collections to superb individual pieces, S/S 2010 is rife with maritime inspiration.  Both Woolrich Woolen Mills and Brooks Brothers Black Fleece have taken this theme to the next level offering printed gear that is the bastard of nautical and "go to hell" sensibilities.  Like everything else is this world of garmenture not all things are created equal and both of these brands are tapping into a very niche idea.  While I could never imagine myself wearing an entire nautical printed suit or outfit I can easily see how a single piece could really work well on its own.  In keeping with the democratic nature of Sart Inc I have pitted two of my favorites against each other.  What do you guys think?  Does WWM's unique coloring rule over BF's cut and Waspy-ness?  Are both of these just straight up nonsense?  How much does it cost to gas up your yacht? Mint juleps or mojitos?

Woolrich Woolen Mills

vs.

Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

-L.A.S

Debate: Fat Chance

AC and Ralph make a case for the return of the wide tie.  I'm not so sure I'm completely sold on this one - I much prefer a 1960's width. Yay or nay? Thoughts?

-L.A.S

Debate: Navy vs. Classic Blue

So you already have a pair of Vans Authentic's locked up and you are looking into buying yet another pair because, well, they are totally radical.  The real issue here is not that you have a bunch of the same sneaker (since they are unstoppable) as it is what colorway should you spend your hard earned 42 bucks on?  You've got your standard natural canvas, white, navy and red to choose from, but with the weather warming up you now have all these seasonal joints hitting the shelves as well.  Do you go with the navy standby or do you rock the classic blue just now made available? Is it about the contrast stitching? What about the color of the sole?  Damn...do you just buy both? You tell me 'cause I sure as hell don't have any idea.


Navy

vs.

Classic Blue

-L.A.S

Debate: A Case Of Disheveled Elegance vs. Sloppiness

 

[Picture courtesy of The Sartorialist.]

I saw this picture earlier today and I found myself perplexed about why this guy was photographed in the first place.  I understand that Mr. Schuman is all about photographing classic examples of sprezzatura, or disheveled elegance, but this specific case seems to cross over into the realm of sloppy.  It's almost as if this dude was hanging out at his apartment in jeans and a white tee only to remember he had to hit up a fashion show so he threw on a cardigan (waistcoat?) and a sportcoat.  And he didn't even bother to tuck his t-shirt in either.  If I was this guy the initial jeans and a tee would have been fine, but then again I'm not getting invited to exclusive fashion cult gatherings.  Thoughts? Cool casual elegance or straight up sloppiness?

-L.A.S

Debate: G.H. Bass & Company for J. Crew vs. Sebago

These debate posts seem well-received so...let's get it on!  Beef-roll penny loafers are a warm weather staple and along with J. Crew's new addition from G.H. Bass & Co., Sebago has just released their own interpretation (Christian at Ivy Style with the assist) .  I'm particularly curious about this specific match-up because it brings to light the whole "how much would you pay for domestic manufacturing" argument.

In one corner we have the G.H. Bass made in the USA loafer available for $280 and in the other a similar Sebago interpretation for $130.  Aside from everyone weighing in on what obviously looks better (i.e. Sebago's shoe coming in a bunch of colorways), anyone care to rationalize the $150 domestic manufacturing markup? Have at it kids.

G.H. Bass & Company Classic Gordon Weejuns

vs.

Sebago Classic Beef-Roll Penny Moc

-L.A.S

[Editor's note: Mr. Schenck of Mister Crew alerted me to a pair of RL made in the USA beef-roll penny's for $150. These seem like the best option of the bunch.]

Debate: Steven Alan for ACL & Co. vs. Save Khaki

The black oxford shirt is making a strong case for "shirt of the moment".  The two most prominent examples are current offerings from The ACL Shop and Save Khaki.  Interestingly enough, both also come clad with a flap pocket, which I personally think is a really cool detail.  Black shirts are tough to pull off, but if you are going to wear one oxford is the route best traveled.  Ultimately, price point isn't really an issue here (ACL = $168, SK = $150) so going purely off of aesthetics which one would you wear? Is this actually a "trad" vs. workwear argument? Could a black oxford shirt even pass as "trad"?

Steven Alan for ACL & Co. Flap Pocket Oxford

vs.

Save Khaki Black Oxford Work Shirt

-L.A.S

Debate: Sperry Seamate vs. Bahama

Maybe someone can shed some light on this for me.  Sperry's Seamate reissue is part of their 75th Anniversary Collection and is a great looking shoe, but seems vaguely familiar.  Most boat shoe enthusiasts will recognize this model from its almost identical appearance to the Sperry Bahama, one of the brand's standards.  Upon further inspection a few minor differences do jump out like the Seamate's not so level 360 degree lacing, some sole styling and it's old school logos.  I'm all for digging into the archives and releasing exclusive makeups, but for $25 more I can't say for sure the Seamate is worth it.  I mean, look at these. They are virtually the exact same shoe.  Is this a case of "overpriced vintage"?  Is this irresponsible on Sperry's part (pulling a fast one on the consumer)? Do you even care?

Seamate

vs.

Bahama

 

-L.A.S

Debate: Vans Authentic vs. Era

I love both of Vans' classic styles and have owned each at some point or another (currently on a pair of Eras).  The classic colorways of the Authentic are unmatched, while the comfort offered by the Era is top notch.  Classic Vans are the epitome of sneakers as far as I am concerned, but it's difficult to pit both of these against each other.

For those not aware, the Authentic (first sold as "deck shoes") was Vans' first model introduced in 1966, while the Era debuted in 1975 (under the name "# 95") as their first pro model designed by legendary skaters Tony Alva and Stacy Peralta.  Keep in mind that I haven't even mentioning the iconic slip on ("# 44") which hit the streets in '79.  I am most definitely going to grab a new pair of Vans for S/S and wanted to get everyone's thoughts on the pros and cons of their favorites.  In the "immortal" words of The Pack, "I've got my Vans on, but they look like sneakers."

Authentic

vs.

Era

 -L.A.S

[Update: Nick, whose love for Vans is well documented, just sent over his sentiments: "Seriously...don't be ridiculous. F-ing Authentics. Eras are the EXACT specifications as the Authentics except for the padding. If it's not 1978, and you're not skating, then you have ZERO use for Eras." Touche Nick, touche indeed.]

Debate: Tuck-ered Out

[Pictured: Derrick Miller of Barker Black.  Apparently the ladies love the tie tuck.  Picture courtesy of The Sartorialist.

After two busy days at work I arrived to my blog reading list to find it spilling over with awesome post after awesome post.  Today is one of those days where I could read and not write a single word and be the happiest guy around...but I've been ruminating on a particular sartorial conundrum lately so I figured I'd put the metaphorical pen to paper.

The best dressed guy I know happens to be this older doctor I work with.  The guy's wardrobe is pretty stacked and he perfectly combines "old man" style with a southern swagger.  His shoes alone will make you weep for joy.  What led me to write this is his affinity for the tie tuck (not to be confused with the similarly named move where you tuck your tie into your shirt).  No matter what the outfit, the guy wears his pants fairly high-waisted (as many older men do) and without fail tucks his tie into the waistband of his pants.  It's kinda quirky, as one would expect, but it works.  Baffled by his embrace of such a shunned sartorial move, I have begun experimenting with this look a few times myself.  Since I wear a tie (and tie bar) to work everyday besides Friday, I often get a chance to tuck the end of my tie into my pants.  What I once scoffed at is quickly becoming on of my easier, go to sartorial moves. 

Do any browsing on the internet and you will see that the tie tuck has been blacklisted.  The Ask Andy Forums, of which I am not a member, tore it apart and a few GQ editorials lambast it as well.  This has been one of the first times where I'm bucking the so called classic style "rules".  Are rules not made to be broken anyhow?  To me, the tie tuck ads a certain level of sophistication or dandyness to an outfit even if the tie is merely tucked for a functional reason.  I also do not agree that this is only for men who don't understand how to properly knot their tie (I go with an immaculate four-in-hand every morning) or wear their pants as high as physically possible (I tend to wear my pants a tad high, but nothing ludicrous).

Just look at Thom Browne and Sean Connery below.  As far as I can tell they look damn good with their ties tucked into their waistbands.  It could possibly be that both of these man could wear just about anything and get away with it, but I think otherwise.  Whether this is a look you've actively participated in or not, I'd like to get some feedback.  Are we feeling dandy or are we all tuck-ered out?

-L.A.S

[Mr. Brown looking mighty fine on the GQ red (black?) carpet.]

[Left:  Connery all tucked in. Right: 3/2 roll, tie tuck status unknown.]