"The Master Modern Cobbler"

If you read this month's GQ you might have noticed Will Welch's profile on Mark McNairy.  Well, it's up on the website and is a seriously great read.  With phrases like "the most talked-about cobbler in, what, a century" this is a career changing piece of press for Mark.  The article contains some great insight into Mark's roots, production and his buzzed about debut collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills.  A big congrats goes out to one of my favorite designers and my friend, Mark McNairy.  I think this serves as proof that if you challenge conventions and continue to do what you set out to do in the first place, people will notice.

-L.A.S

Mark McNairy by Spiewak F/W 2011

Mark McNairy's collaboration with American outerwear juggernaut Spiewak wasn't just a one off for S/S 2011.  No, he's back at it for F/W 2011 and recreating Spiewak's classic snorkel parka in his own image.  When he told me he was going to do a lookbook featuring only women I was intrigued to say the least.  While these jackets are pretty much unisex, I think we can call agree that they look much better on pretty girls.  But then again, you can say that about anything, I guess.  Whoever did the casting on this one deserves a Nobel prize. For more information on Mark McNairy by Spiewak check out this interview Mark did for Spiewak's website.

All photos by Lee Clower.

-L.A.S

First Look: Mark McNairy San Salvador

When Mr. McNairy was visiting El Salvador he discovered a style of boot he had never seen before.  The Burro boot is the official shoe of El Salvador's working class and the signature style produced by Empresas ADOC, Central America's largest family owned manufacturer.  ADOC provides all of its workers with a pair - the cost of which is equivalent to one day's pay.  Known for their tough and rugged nature, the Burro boot has been worn through revolutions and is symbolic of El Salvador's everyman.  Wanting to bring this iconic shoe outside of Central America for the first time, Mark is launching his San Salvador collection.  Mark's version, made by ADOC, keeps the classic silhouette and thick vulcanized rubber sole, but features new eyelets and rich suede uppers.  The plan is to eventually build the San Salvador collection to include more authentic El Salvadorian footwear such as roper boots on a similar rubber sole.  McNairy's Burro boot will be available in stores soon and should retail for around $125.

-L.A.S

Woolrich Woolen Mills F/W 2011

The most anticipated collection (at least for me) of F/W 2011 is officially in the books and we might as well put it out there - this is wholly Mark's collection.  The Daiki Suzuki era has come and gone.  While this may bum some people out, I couldn't be more excited for the second phase of WWM.  So, did McNairy deliver?  That's for you to decided for yourself, obviously, but for my money he most definitely did indeed.  After hearing Mark mention how his version of WWM would focus much more so on Woolrich's collegiate and military history those of us less enamored with the whole hunting vibe breathed a much needed sigh of relief.  Don't get me wrong, I think Daiki is one of the best designers working today.  In fact, I own quite a bit of his stuff.  Regardless, some aesthetics get tiresome and evolution is a natural part of the fashion industry - needless to say, I was more than ready for a new direction.  The end result is pretty much what I was expecting from Mark.  WWM F/W 2011 definitely comes from a collegiate and military place, but what clinches it for me is the collection's edge, for lack of a better word.  Mark has made a name for himself thanks to his ability to take the classic and put his own spin on things and he's done it yet again.  There's less quirk than what we've seen from his own line (which is to be expected from something of this scope), but there is still that rebel attitude.  That, "I wear what I want to wear when I want to wear it" feeling.  Honestly, it's kinda punk rock.  And I absolutely love that shit.  The endgame for this new partnership can't be determined after just one collection, but I've talked to a few European buyers already and they are psyched.  Where it will be stocked and what exactly will be stocked in The States is yet to be seen, but I hope lots, if not all, of this is readily available so I can go ahead and spend money I don't have.  Some parting thoughts:

-Those crepe sole double monks are a new style from Mark McNairy New Amsterdam.
-This collection is a little bit smaller than I imagined it would be.
-For a feel of the WWM 2011 presentation in Milan be sure to head over to Isaac's spot.

 -L.A.S

First Look: Woolrich Woolen Mills F/W 2011

When it rains, it pours.  Hot on the heels of yesterday's post, today sees the first look at the "coat range" in Mark McNairy's upcoming WWM F/W 2011 collection.  It's all pretty classic, extremely wearable and fits surprisingly well within the paradigm established by Daiki Suzuki.  Some coats should even look familiar - off hand, I spot the Mountain Parka.  We're obviously still waiting on everything else, but this makes me think we won't be let down.  Not that I thought we would be in the first place.  Enrico locked down the world premier so shout out to Italians making me feel bad about my blog.

-L.A.S

Woolrich Woolen Mills F/W 2011 Preview

Style.com has the first real picture of Mark McNairy's debut collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills.  WWM F/W 2011 will debut January 17th in Milan and is at a critical juncture in the brand's history as it transitions into the post-Daiki Suzuki era.  Here is what Mark has to say about the collection:

"When I started, I wanted to get as far away from the [well-known] outdoor aspect as possible, the hunting and fishing. Woolrich also has a long history of making for the U.S. military, and in the late fifties and early sixties, they had an Ivy League, preppy consumer collection, which not a lot of people know about. Basically, the collection that I did was a mishmash of classic U.S. navy garb and traditional Ivy League garb."

There is not a single collection I am more intrigued by than WWM F/W 2011 and I can't even imagine the craziness Mark has in store.  But like, the always insightful and Daiki fanatic, Mister Crew said, "It has to be tasteful craziness if it's going to sell."

-L.A.S

A Brief Conversation With Mark McNairy

I'll keep this one short and sweet - Mark McNairy just gave the most detailed, thoughtful and, downright, awesome interview of his career.  Read it over at The Contemporary Standard.

-L.A.S

Attn: Mark McNairy Gets A Webstore

This just in - Mark McNairy has launched his own official webstore along with a comprehensive list of stockists worldwide.  The guy you all love or all love to hate is selling everything from his made in Maine mocs to his one-of-a-kind fun shirts in one convenient place.  There is even something for the ladies.  The only thing missing is the return of these badboys, but I wouldn't hold my breath.  'Bout damn time.

-L.A.S

Attn: Mark McNairy for PRO-Keds Now Available

While you're digging around UO's site looking for all that new J. Press gear you love to hate (it's still there, I promise) make sure to check out Mark McNairy's collaboration with PRO-Keds that was first announced back in January.  UO stocked up on the better colorways that feature vibrant suede and natural gum soles - Mark's take on red brick sole for sneakers.  The sneakers come in at $100, but that's not incredibly ridiculous, especially considering these sneakers are most likely never going to get made again.  I know for a fact some of you style guys used to be sneakerheads so I am sure at least a few of you appreciate what is going on here.  These PRO-Keds retain all the great parts of an exclusive sneaker drop, while maintaining the classic aesthetic that should be a necessity when buying sneakers in the first place.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Beat the system before it's too late.]

Welcome Back Walk-Over

If you read any of the various clothing forums that dot the internet you've most likely ran into a post regarding Walk-Over shoes.  They usually involve some dude stumbling upon a real crisp pair of bucks at his local thrift spot for around $5.  He buys the bucks, obviously, and then goes home to Google the brand. The story usually ends with him staring at posts in those very same clothing forums inquiring about the shoes and their origins.  Lots of older cats remember Walk-Over fondly and lament on the company's early to mid 1990's demise.  If my facts are correct, Walk-Over's claim to fame was bringing the buck to America (inventing the buck?) and producing it for pretty much everyone.  Regardless, Walk-Over's rich, albeit spotty, history firmly establishes their place in American made footwear history.  Thanks to a licensing deal or a much needed infusion of capital, Walk-Over is back slinging bucks to the American public - red brick sole fever is officially an epidemic.  If you pop on over to The Standard Edition you can peep a preview of the new/old line that was shown at both ENK New York and Compass.  The first thing you may notice is the striking similarity to Mark McNairy's New Amsterdam line and that's because, well, Mark freelance designed Walk-Over's relaunch. I wasn't surprised when I heard this news and neither should you. If you were relaunching your red brick sole heritage shoe line and needed a designer, who better to turn to than the current king of the buck?  Right?  Anyway, the launch seems slated for S/S 2011 and as of now there is a severe lack of information available (i.e. pricepoints, brand philosophy, country of origin, availability, etc.).  While the jury is still out on this one, lets take a second to welcome back Walk-Over.

[Pictures courtesy of The Standard Edition.]

-L.A.S