Black Fleece F/W 2010

Oh man, what can I say about Thom Browne that hasn't been said hundreds of times already?  Forget it.  Thom falls squarely into the always interesting "loved or hated, but never ignored" sartorial category.  Yes, he's as important to menswear as anyone these days.  And yes, Thom's shit is quite often out of control.  His Black Fleece line for Brooks Brothers has always been easier to swallow (aka more wearable) than his eponymous line so it's something I at least pay attention to.  Black Fleece's appeal, in my eyes, has always rested firmly on specific pieces and not on overall collections.  There are always great shoes, shirts and neckwear - Brooks Brothers wouldn't let Thom mess that up.  Anyhow, Black Fleece's F/W 2010 looks have just popped up online and it's more of the same.  Killer pieces that when combines are a tad shy of overkill.  For example, doubling up on plaids is one thing, but rocking with three incarnations of the pattern is just plain ridiculous.  What can we take away from this? Shorter pants look best with boots.  Turtlenecks, when done right, can be extremely stylish.  And, patchwork flannel most definitely can look stupid.

-L.A.S

Topman Does Thom

Topman is one of those brands often accused of fast food fashion i.e. marketing inferior quality, cheap products that capitalize on the latest trends of the moment.  I'm not their biggest fan, but for those who don't have an illegal slush fun in Mexico it can be a decent option to get some fitted basics to round out your wardrobe.  As I was browsing their site this afternoon, looking for some double breasted blazer options, I realized that Topman was pushing a few sport coats that look like they were stolen from Thom Browne's showroom - seriously, we are talking blatant ripoffs.  I think this is kinda shaddy (I've talked about creative licensing on the blog enough as it is), but I guess if you really want some TB or Black Fleece gear this could be your starting point.  Topman makes no secret of what they do so you can't really blame them.  Their target demographic of skinny hipster-ish kids with meager incomes eat stuff like this up so I won't throw stones for a shrewd business decision.  So yeah, do you want some TB? Are you so broke that you wouldn't even be allowed to step foot in a Barneys? Well, here ya go.

-L.A.S

Attn: Thom Browne For Supreme

In what may seem like the most unlikely collaboration on paper Thom Browne has gotten together with Supreme to release three oxford shirts to be sold online and in US stores this Thursday.  The shirts look damn good, but the most intriguing aspect of all this is the seemingly bizarre pairing.  The more I've thought about this though, the more it makes total sense - what we have here is a marriage of two New York based institutions.  On one hand we have arguably the most innovative designer in all of menswear who has helped define menswear worldwide with his shrunken proportions and on the other arguably the most storied streetwear brand in the entire world - both are trailblazers, innovators and purveyors of all things NYC cool.  I respect these cats to the fullest and while I may not always agree with what they put out, I can totally dig the significance of the collaboration.  I deeply appreciate the meeting of minds behind this project and while I know these shirts are going to be a pretty penny I'm feeling quite compelled to cop the red joint.  Now as romanticized as this may sound I still wonder how much the Japanese financiers behind Thom Browne played a part in this...

[Picture courtesy of Freshness Mag.]

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Hmmm...something's fishy.]

Debate: Nautical Prints

If you're a fan of nautical steeze, much like myself, you've been one happy camper recently.  From entire collections to superb individual pieces, S/S 2010 is rife with maritime inspiration.  Both Woolrich Woolen Mills and Brooks Brothers Black Fleece have taken this theme to the next level offering printed gear that is the bastard of nautical and "go to hell" sensibilities.  Like everything else is this world of garmenture not all things are created equal and both of these brands are tapping into a very niche idea.  While I could never imagine myself wearing an entire nautical printed suit or outfit I can easily see how a single piece could really work well on its own.  In keeping with the democratic nature of Sart Inc I have pitted two of my favorites against each other.  What do you guys think?  Does WWM's unique coloring rule over BF's cut and Waspy-ness?  Are both of these just straight up nonsense?  How much does it cost to gas up your yacht? Mint juleps or mojitos?

Woolrich Woolen Mills

vs.

Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

-L.A.S

Black Fleece S/S 2010 Footwear

Jeremy just commented on the overall collection so I'm defaulting to footwear.  So far I like what I see - a bunch of longwings (Thom's footwear of choice), some of which are unconventional, and one pair of supper clean saddle shoes. When I last mentioned Black Fleece footwear not too long ago I talked about how one of it's biggest selling points was getting Thom Browne designs at virtually half off.  All of these shoes are $550 so that aspect is still in play.  While I can't speak to the exact quality of the shoes, having never owned a pair, I can regurgitate the facts.  Black Fleece kicks are goodyear welted, leather lined/soled and made in both England and the USA (depending on the model).  Every one of those aspects is what I look for when dropping anything north of 3 hundo so depending on your filing status some of these may actually be a pretty good deal.  The Jury's still out on those spectators though...

 

  

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Black Fleece Double Monk Strap Shoes

 

[Pictured: Black Fleece double monk strap in black pebbled leather available for $550.00.]

At this point in my life many of my sartorial inclinations have become more predictable than a drunken sorority chick.  If there is one type of shoe I love more than the rest it has to be the double monk strap - hands down, there is no question and I'm not afraid to show it.  I'm still in the process of tracking down the perfect pair(s) and when I see one I like you'd probably have to threaten to kill me to keep me from throwing it up on the blog. 

These Black Fleece (designed by Thom Browne for Brooks Brothers, but you already knew all that) double monks are special because of a few key features.  For starters they are in a pebbled, or scotch grain or granulated, leather.  I love scotch grain for its roughness and texture and it looks so great when on a shoe so obviously rakish.  The absence of a cap toe is another feature I am drawn to, not for the fact that I am against cap toe shoes or anything of the sort, but because most double monks these days are spruced up with one.  I guess I'm just a sucker for people doing things a little bit different.

So why should you spend 550 clams on these shoes?  Well, that my friends is a question you must answer for yourself.  But, I will say that quality is not something Thom Browne or Brooks Brothers ever lacks when it comes to their goods.  If you still have doubts check out Jeremy's new series called "Wear and Tear".  First up is a pair of Thom Browne wingtips and from what I can tell they pass the almost 3 year test by holding up spectacularly.  The only downside is, of course, their $1000+ price tag, but that's where Black Fleece comes in.  Do I want to buy a beautiful Thom Browne designed shoe for half price? Abso-fruitly.

-L.A.S

Debate: Tuck-ered Out

[Pictured: Derrick Miller of Barker Black.  Apparently the ladies love the tie tuck.  Picture courtesy of The Sartorialist.

After two busy days at work I arrived to my blog reading list to find it spilling over with awesome post after awesome post.  Today is one of those days where I could read and not write a single word and be the happiest guy around...but I've been ruminating on a particular sartorial conundrum lately so I figured I'd put the metaphorical pen to paper.

The best dressed guy I know happens to be this older doctor I work with.  The guy's wardrobe is pretty stacked and he perfectly combines "old man" style with a southern swagger.  His shoes alone will make you weep for joy.  What led me to write this is his affinity for the tie tuck (not to be confused with the similarly named move where you tuck your tie into your shirt).  No matter what the outfit, the guy wears his pants fairly high-waisted (as many older men do) and without fail tucks his tie into the waistband of his pants.  It's kinda quirky, as one would expect, but it works.  Baffled by his embrace of such a shunned sartorial move, I have begun experimenting with this look a few times myself.  Since I wear a tie (and tie bar) to work everyday besides Friday, I often get a chance to tuck the end of my tie into my pants.  What I once scoffed at is quickly becoming on of my easier, go to sartorial moves. 

Do any browsing on the internet and you will see that the tie tuck has been blacklisted.  The Ask Andy Forums, of which I am not a member, tore it apart and a few GQ editorials lambast it as well.  This has been one of the first times where I'm bucking the so called classic style "rules".  Are rules not made to be broken anyhow?  To me, the tie tuck ads a certain level of sophistication or dandyness to an outfit even if the tie is merely tucked for a functional reason.  I also do not agree that this is only for men who don't understand how to properly knot their tie (I go with an immaculate four-in-hand every morning) or wear their pants as high as physically possible (I tend to wear my pants a tad high, but nothing ludicrous).

Just look at Thom Browne and Sean Connery below.  As far as I can tell they look damn good with their ties tucked into their waistbands.  It could possibly be that both of these man could wear just about anything and get away with it, but I think otherwise.  Whether this is a look you've actively participated in or not, I'd like to get some feedback.  Are we feeling dandy or are we all tuck-ered out?

-L.A.S

[Mr. Brown looking mighty fine on the GQ red (black?) carpet.]

[Left:  Connery all tucked in. Right: 3/2 roll, tie tuck status unknown.]

Attn: Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers Sale on Gilt

[Picture Courtesy of Brooks Brothers.]

Since I'm way to nice to horde all the good sales for myself, here is another reminder why you need to get your Gilt membership asap.  You should already know all about Thom Browne and his exclusive line for Brooks Brothers and how amazing it is so I'll spare you all that.  Do yourself a favor and sign up for Gilt here.  Sartorially Inclined is in the market for some great fall shirting (oxfords, plaids, etc.), so as long as you stay away from that we can still be friends.  Hope everyone had a great weekend and I'll be sure to see you tomorrow (today?) at 12 noon over at the virtual racks.  Cheers.

-L.A.S

"What's In My Closet?" - Pebbled Leather

[Pictured: Sartorially Inclined's black pebbled leather wingtips]

I recently purchased these wonderful NOS (new, old stock) black pebbled leather wingtips from a now defunct company called Georgetown Footwear for Gentleman (fantastic name).   While I am not going to preach the virtures of wingtips for the 100th time, I am instead interested in dicussing the wonderfully textured material known as pebbled leather.  For those unaware, pebbled leather is leather with a granulated surface as oppose to its more common, smooth appearance/feel.  Pebbled leather is in no way a new trend or anything of the like, but it can be easily overlooked when shopping around for a new pair of dress shoes so I figured I would discuss it here.

When doing some research in preperation for my next wingtip purchase I stumbled upon the beautiful shoes that Thom Browne makes and wears (see below).  His shoes are WAY out of my price range, but they pointed me in the right direction and got me thinking about texture.  The black pebble leather wingtip is a great shoe in that, much like any great piece, its beauty lies in the details.  A common glance may very well overlook the texture of the shoe, but that's kind of the point.  It is a minute detail (especially in a black shoe) that the wearer knows exists and feels good about.

[Pictured: Thom Browne wingtips. Notice the subtle texture.]

You can use these details and the confidence that comes with them to build a great outfit from the ground up, literally and figuratively.  Much like suede wingtips, the pebbled leather version takes a classic and tweaks it just enough so that the essence of the shoe is not lost, but, instead, updated and personalized.  Not to mention, if Thom Browne (damn that guy can dress!) wears 'em, I'm buying 'em...

-L.A.S

[Top view feat. Johnson and Murphy shoe trees.]

 

[Pebbled leather, close up view.]