Lusting After: The Merrell Wilderness Collection

Just the other day I slighted Merrell for making boots that were a little too technical for my tastes and, most likely, for yours as well.  But can you really blame them?  Merrell is an outdoors brand who makes boots for outdoors enthusiasts - end of story.  Do they care about style blogs? Do they care about dudes who read style blogs? I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that they don't.  Anyhow, I was thinking about all this today and I realized that I had failed to previously mention Merrell's Wilderness Collection when it was first announced this past August.  The Wilderness Collection is in collaboration with NY based shoe retailer David Z and their callabo mastermind Ronnie Fieg.  Mr. Fieg took arguably the most classic Merrell silhouette, The Wilderness, and paired it up with some new fabrics.  I really like The Wilderness because unlike a lot of the other hiker style boots on the market this boot has an elongated toe box resulting in a more natural looking shape.  These made in Italy special edition boots are still available and will run you $300.  I can't remember the last time I did a "Lusting After" post here on Sart Inc, but, then again, I can't remember the last time I saw some Merrell boots look this good.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: L.L. Bean Black Watch Heritage Wool Duffel Coat

Well, I'm officially done shopping for F/W outwear.  It's a wrap. Game over.  See ya later.  My buddy Gabe alerted me to the coat to end all coats.  L.L. Bean's Black Watch Heritage Wool Duffel Coat is perfect - classic outwear silhouette, classic tartan.  Hell, the best tartan ever.  It's as bold as timeless gets, which as far as I am concerned is the definition of a must have.  This is a statement making coat, but that statement won't embarrass you in, let's say, 2 years.  The details are standard Bean fare.  The wool is of the Italian sourced 18 oz. variety and the jacket comes hooked up with Bean's Thinsulate insulation (as seen in their Bean boots) to keep you extra warm.  It's got traditional toggle closure, but also features a zipper (presumably YKK from previous experience) and backer buttons for when the wind really kicks up - that's a heavy dose of function to go with a full house of form.  Lots of brands seem to be on the cropped duffel tip these days, but for my money I want a 3/4 length to keep my ass warm - L.L. Bean hits you right above the knee.  If you don't trust me on black watch outerwear, and I know a lot of you don't, at least trust one of the greatest to ever do it.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Of course there is always an option for those of you who prefer to keep things stealth.]

Lusting After: Creep Selvedge Chino

Creep can sometimes be a little "out there" for lack of a better phrase (read: chambray chef hats), but Hiroshi Awai also does some seriously incredible stuff.  For example, these gingham selvedge chinos are off the charts.  They're on some restrained Junya 2.0 type shit, giving you more style than necessarily fashion, and ultimately resulting in some of the coolest chinos on the market.  The only thing that concerns me about these is how well they could transition into F/W.  I love chinos because of their year round versatility, but the addition of blue gingham could potentially counteract this. Or maybe not.  Maybe I'm over thinking it.  I mean, who wouldn't want to wear these pants as often as possible?

 -L.A.S

Lusting After: Crockett & Jones Brown Suede Lowndes

Getting double monks in the US is hard. Getting Crockett & Jones double monks in the US is even harder. Getting Crockett & Jones brown suede double monks in the US was downright impossible.  But holdup, Barney's has just stepped in to make impossible nothing (I hope Adidas doesn't sue me like they sued Thom).  For one easy payment of $595 you can now get, quite possibly, the most killer double monks on the market.  This is a big coup for investment bankers and trust funders who also happen to read style blogs.  It's real nice to see someone finally sticking their neck out for that burgeoning, yet highly neglected demographic.  Rejoice!  For anyone seriously considering this purchase (and there's got to be at least one of you out there, right?) the Lowndes comes on C&J's 348 last and has a standard width.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Orvis Waxed Sheridan Vest

Having just talked about quilted outerwear options for fall, it makes sense to highlight this excellent new down vest from Orvis.  The Waxed Sheridan vest is more or less your standard down vest, but really shines thanks to the quilted western yoke detailing.  I can't speak on how trim or not trim it fits, but from the picture it looks like it would definitely fall into the former of the two categories - you don't want to look like Randy in A Christmas Story.  The outer shell is waxed for water resistance and the front snap pockets actually feature hidden hand warmers, which is an extremely functional feature left off of too many pieces of outerwear.  The downside, for those of us who aren't exactly vegan friendly, is the faux-suede used instead of the real deal, but I guess that helps with the pricepoint if you want to do the whole "glass half full" thing.  If you're a smaller guy you're out of luck as per usual with Orvis - the smallest size is a medium.  When your mom told you to drink your milk she knew what she was talking about.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Ovadia & Sons Short Sleeve Oxford

There is a lot going on with this shirt (made in the USA for anyone keeping score) - Japanese oxford cloth, short sleeves, contrast collar, plaid.  Normally when you combine this many elements together at once things tend to get out of hand, but in this case Ovadia & Sons has created a short sleeve shirt that's actually easier to wear versus you normal, let's say, white short sleeve button down.  Most people detest the short sleeve button down because it conjures up images of IT workers and paper pushers who have never bothered with anything even remotely stylish in their entire life.  In the case of this shirt I believe that the variety of elements comes together to create a shirt that while being inherently "complicated" is still really easy to wear.  Pair it with chinos or khaki shorts and you're done.  This shirt is begging to be the focal point of a warm weather kit and if you let it do just that you're golden.  I love the pattern most of all and it's cool to see someone do plaid oxford cloth for a change.  There is no word on pricing yet or where O&S is gonna be stocked, but as soon as those details emerge you will see them over here. Trust.

-L.A.S

A San Francisco Twofer

San Fran shop UNIONMADE just launched their online shop, which is a coup for those of us who call the right coast home.  These guys have already made waves with various top notch collaborations, a sharp looking retail space and an impressive stocklist so this next step is a much welcomed one.  Just take a look at their recent collaboration with local sportswear purveyor Golden Bear.  I don't think I've seen a more perfect cotton varsity jacket in my entire life.  Made locally in San Francisco's Potrero district and chock full of enough style to last you two lifetimes, these jackets have moved right on up my "must cop" list.   I knew that once UM hit the web I would be short a few stacks, but it appears I highly overestimated my will power.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: WWM F/W 2010 Ranger Pants

I've had a pair of twill Woolrich Woolen Mills Ranger pants for a while now and, as it stands today, are the best pair of chinos I own.  For F/W 2010 Mr. Suzuki has done up the Ranger pant in both grey and navy herringbone wool - both of these pants are must owns as far as I am concerned.  The pants are trim fitting through the thigh and leg, yet still feature a leg opening wide enough to pair with your various boots.  The jetted pockets below the rear flap pockets may seem superfluous, but are actually quite functional especially if you don't like carrying a bag around (they are big enough for your sunglasses, spectacles, cigarettes, phone, Ipod, etc.).  The color palette for WWM F/W 2010 is pretty brooding and the Ranger pants benefit from this.  Both the grey and navy herringbone wool expertly convey a sense of dressiness and ruggedness, which pairs up great with the Ranger pant's inherent aesthetic (a classy trouser with rugged detailing).  It should be noted that these pants feature a relatively higher rise and feature a raised, split yoke in the back.  I prefer my pants to have a higher rise so I dig the look, but it's definitely not for everyone.  These are gonna look killer with a 2" cuff.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Howard Yount Wide Silk Knit

Piggy-backing off of my call to "fatten up", Mister Crew was kind enough to draw my attention to the granddaddy of them all - the Rick Ross of ties.  Howard Yount is currently selling a 3.5" black knit tie that pretty much trumps everything I talked about in my post.  It's a whole lotta style for $55, especially for a tie that's 100% silk and made in Italy.  This joint is extra long too, so be prepared for some big ol' double four-in-hand knots.  Anything but cutaway collars need not apply. 

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Gaucho Belts

I haven't done a "lusting after" post in a minute, partly because I'm blowing all my money on eBay thanks to whoever is stealing Cucinelli cargo pants right off the supply truck, but once I saw Christine's post on Gaucho Belts I knew one was imminent.   For someone looking for a little waist flair other than ribbon belts, which aren't the most choice option during F/W, these belts seem like a real good substitute.  Hand embroidery, brass hardware and Capybara leather are the key ingredients in this case and with all the options available (they even do custom orders) you can easily get whatever your precious little heart desires.  For about 50 bones I think we can safely tell Ralph Lauren to eat his heart out on this one.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Paraboot Vigny

I don't know much about Paraboot besides the fact they are an expensive French shoe brand, but I do know a damn good looking double monk strap when I see one.  Paraboot's Vigny model is one of the better rugged double monks I have seen thanks to its Goodyear welted construction and double leather sole.  I should also mention that one of the reasons these badboys cost $502 is due to Paraboot's required 150 manual operations it takes to make a pair of their shoes, which is also an incredibly aristocratic way of saying they are handmade.  But then again, when you drop a half stack you probably want to know that kind of stuff.  If you are thinking about copping, and why wouldn't you assuming you're not a poor bastard like myself, don't forget the sizes listed are British.  I cannot think of a more handsome shoe to wear while beating the shit out of someone in the middle of a cobblestone street.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Hickey Double Breasted Sportcoat

Double breasted jackets, much like double monk straps, get a 100% cosign from yours truly.  I'm always on the lookout for new joints to add to a collection that always seems extremely under nourished.  As much as I'm currently on the hunt for that perfectly WASP-y gold button number, I can't seem to shake this seriously classy jacket from Hickey.  As you well know there is a time for everything and there are times when something like gold buttons just aint gonna cut it - you don't always want to be that guy even if you think you do.  What started at almost a grand has now dropped to just under $400 and who knows how low it will go considering Hickey's whole sudden brand discontinuation thing (I'm still thoroughly pissed about this by the way).  At 90% cotton, Italian fabric and USA manufacturing it fires on all cylinders as a great summer buy so make sure you pick one up for me on your way to the register.  I really want to pair this with some reds.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Apolis Activism + Kanvas by Katin Chambray Swim Trunks

I have yet to talk about swim trunks on Sart Inc because my buddies over at Valet have that subject on DEFCON 5 style lockdown - at this point you know how long they should be and what styles best suit your body type.  Well, consider my silence officially broken thanks to the geniuses over at Apolis Activism.  These dudes know how to make some killer trunks.  Their first collaborative effort with Katin was dope, but the sequel is even better - The Godfather II of bathing suits if you will.  These chambray joints might seem a little pricey at $108, but I believe when it comes to items like this you only need one in your arsenal so why not break out the big guns?  Just imagine the crazy fading on these as you hit the pool/beach this summer.  That's worth the price of admission alone if you ask me.

Apolis Activism: Katin USA from Dave Christenson on Vimeo.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: SeeVeas 07/69 Campside Moccasin

These puppies are more or less a S/S version of these, which is actually a really good thing in my book.  I'll be the first to admit that I roll within with a very limited moccasin framework - boat shoes and bluchers exclusively.  I'm digging on these SeeVeas joints as a nice go between since I'm not totally willing to commit myself to any full fledged native footwear.  Part of me is still a little hesitant on the whole guilty by slippers association kicks such as these bring, but the hearty sole and accompanying welt seem fully capable of taking care of that.  With boat shoes and blucher mocs dominating the airwaves these days a shoe such as the Campside Moccasin, which kinda exists as the bastard child of the two, might be a well timed addition to the arsenal.  I can see these looking quite snazzy on those days where you bite the bullet and end up wearing shorts.  Oh yeah, they look comfy as all hell too.  The SeaVees Campside Moccasin is also available at Need Supply Co., an often criminally slept on shop.

 -L.A.S

Lusting After: Hickey Cotton Pea Coat

Trenches are for sure cool when it comes to this whole warm weather outerwear game, but I'd be lying if I didn't admit that I'm partial to cotton pea coats myself.  Maybe it's my unhealthy double breasted fetish or the fact that they are less popular - who knows anymore?  There are some cheap options available (Gap sometimes has them, Lands End Canvas has one now) and then there are the top notch joints. Those made in Italy, side slash pocket, taped seam joints. You get the idea.  Hickey's cotton gabardine pea coat (now on sale) is all of the above making it one of the most lust worthy cotton pea coats you can get your hands on.  Another fantastic feature on this baby is the ivory colorway separating it even further from the khaki and navy numbers floating around.  Ivory is one of those colors that may seem a little delicate, but when paired up with some dark denim creates a killer contrast of both color and fabric.  Just make sure you stay away from any of that spring mud when wearing this. That would not be a good look.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Rugby Madras Tuxedo Jacket

I have wanted a madras tuxedo jacket since the day I discovered this picture:

It's from a 1973 GQ photospread presumably dealing with summer formal wear or garden party steeze or whatever you want to call it.  This is obviously an insanely bold look, but I'd rather be "that guy" at one of these events then anywhere else.  I mean, the inherent sillyness and tomfoolery of such gatherings is begging for a tux that is basically a middle finger with lapels and satin trim.  The guys above are straight up killing it with their WASP lounge style and while you might be lacking that purebred 70's mane you can still suit up in a well fitting madras tuxedo jacket to capture a similar vibe.  Rugby's new version is practically $300, but like I've mentioned before it's damn hard to snatch up formal gear these days for much cheaper without finding yourself in an incredibly lame Macy's "instant tuxedo - just add water" kit.  And unless you really want to get punched in the face please, for heaven's sake, leave the flip flops at home.

 
-L.A.S

Lusting After: Nike x A.P.C. All Court

Some of you might remember this collaboration between Nike and A.P.C. from springtime last year, but these shoes are too clean not to revisit for a quick second.  The All Court model was first introduced by Nike in 1975 and served as a precursor to what would later be referred to as "cross trainers".  Before the idea of a multi sport shoe became common place within modern sneaker lexicon, this was Nike's attempted to create a shoe you could wear for all your athletic pursuits.  Apparently this shoe was perfect for A.P.C. because of its "simple, sophisticated clean lines" and fit right in with their unisex and simple brand strategy - I can't say I disagree one bit.  The All Court, to me, always seemed to be Nike's response to the Jack Purcell sneaker (purchased by Converse in the mid 70's) and one look at the rubber toe cap seems to confirm this.  Add the JP's signature "smile" to the All Court and you have a pretty much identical shoe.  This doesn't bother me at all considering how much I love tennis style and the All Court is right up there with some of my other favorite canvas shoes that get a lot of face time on Sart Inc.  These babies are hard to track down today, but they do pop up on eBay for a little under their original retail price of $150.  The collabo came in a few classic colorways, with my favorite being the red and white.  Lots of people struggle with the idea of all red kicks as they can be perceived as quite gaudy, but the red accents on this version of the All Court are perfectly understated, much like most of A.P.C.'s renowned gear.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Southern Proper Bean Boot Neckwear

Seen over at Dreams of Perfection these new ties and bows from Southern Proper are serious lust worthy due to the fact they aren't yet available for purchase and happen to feature the Sart Inc "mascot" plastered all over them.  I'm not sure when this collection, dubbed "Town & Country", will be available, but you can bet your ass that come fall you'll be able to catch me with one of these tied around my neck and Bean boots on my feet (you most likely knew half of that already).  You would think that after the purchase of many a pair my Bean boot habit would be under control - well you thought wrong.  Hell, it's tough to even make out the exact pattern on the ties and yet I'm already sold.  Blame rampant consumerism. Blame an unhealthy fixation. Blame whatever you want. I guess it comes down to wearing your influences on your sleeve or your neck for that matter.

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Sid Mashburn S/S Shirting

It looks as if Sid's got some new shirts online now.  Are they expensive? Yes.  Are they awesome? Hell yes. Can you buy them online? Nope. Here's to hoping you either live in Hotlanta or plan on visiting soon (and to think you thought a proxy was only for Japan).  The tomato flap pocket button down and both popovers are stellar.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: E-commerce is on its way, but until then call 404-350-7135.]