Talking Shop

Hamilton 1883 always has pretty fantastic editorial pieces on their website.  They recently posted a bunch of conversations with a variety of shop owners who stock Hamilton 1883.  Sart Inc favorites ACL & Co., Epaulet and Unionmade all take part and it's great to hear some incredibly respected folks talk about not only why they are into Hamilton 1883, but a little about themselves.  Not a bad read for a Thursday morning.

-L.A.S

Dried Blood

Did you guys catch this post on The Trad last week?  John got an incredible Mercer & Sons shirt in a beautiful Buffalo Bill dried blood gingham.  I loved the shirt because it not only looks awesome, but reinforced something I've been saying for a while - wear some goddamn gingham in F/W!  The only hard part is finding the right color.  Well, guess what? Dried blood is "the right color".  Ironically enough, Hamilton 1883 just released their own version of the exact same shirt.  I own a few Hamilton 1883 shirts and I stand by them 100%.  From the quality, to the collar to the fit - it's all gravy.  Yes, I know, this stuff is expensive, but when you put on a Hamilton shirt you can feel the difference versus, say, a shirt from Brooks Brothers.  Now, there is nothing wrong with a Brooks Brothers shirt, I just wanted you to know that the price difference isn't merely a markup.  At the very least, think of this as a reminder to add some gingham to that Christmas list of yours - unfortunately, you can't wear a Hess truck.

-L.A.S

By Popular Demand

Hamilton 1883's cult like following has asked for pocket squares and, like any good brand should, Hamilton has given the people what they want.  The pocket squares are based on the lovely fabric they use for their shirting and will run you $35.  For 10 dollars extra you can even get you own made to order ones.  Not bad, especially considering how good Hamilton's swatch game is.  These new accessories are hitting the webstore shortly, but if you just can't wait to snatch a camo pocket square and get one step closer to Wooster you can call the Houston store to place an order - 713.264.8800.  One last tip of advice: no matching.

-L.A.S

Attn: Hamilton 1883 Fall 2010

One of my favorite shirting brands, Hamilton 1883, just put some new Fall 2010 shirts online for pre-sale.  Camouflage, spread collars, red oxford cloth and shooting pads - there is a lot of good stuff here.  Seems like Hamilton 1883 is getting a little more adventurous too, which is most definitely a good thing in my book.  For those not familiar with the brand be sure to hit the tag at the bottom of the post, but for now here are the basics: made in the U.S.A. (Houston, Texas), great slim fit, and top notch fabric/construction.  These shirts are winners, no doubt.  This is also about that time where I apologize to my checking account for making it rain.

-L.A.S

Hamilton 1883 S/S 2010

Hamilton 1883's S/S 2010 collection has been out for a while, but for those of you who might not be aware or need a refresher I got your back.  Hamilton 1883 is a big deal.  As I've mentioned before, "an American shirt maker hitting their archives to produce (cut and sewn in the U.S.A.) faithful recreations of a few classics in a modern fit" is a major coup for us style minded cats.  I previously touched on the absolutely killer red linen pullover/popover, which I am lucky enough to own, and thought that now would be as good of a time as any to highlight the remainder of  what's up for grabs.  The new additions for S/S contain some great short sleeve options in a variety of fabrics and colors - linen, chambray, gingham, check, etc.  I'm obviously partial to the popovers, but for those of you who find the style a tad unwearable there be something else that will fit right into your sartorial repertoire.  And as per fit and quality, often the crux of many a purchase, you'd be hard pressed to find a brand superior to Hamilton 1883.  Check out some of the great short sleeve shirting below.

-L.A.S

White Collar Crime

As in the two tone shirt is often overlooked and ignored when it comes to casual sportswear which is a crime as far as I am concerned.  Just like how I talked about here, a great way to step up your casual looks is to pair your standard kit (raw denim, chinos, shorts, what have you) with a white collar shirt.  I really like the idea of throwing on a shirt like this, even with some neckwear, to wear when going about all you S/S business.  Lots of brands are releasing a variety of casual shirts with white collars for the upcoming season and I am totally on board with this and even if you're out of the office there is nothing wrong with tucking in your shirt and throwing on a tie.  There is something to say about a guy who even in his time off takes the effort to keep things classy upstairs.  Just because you are used to wearing your jeans and sneakers on the weekend doesn't mean you have to exclusively rock white tees.  While knotting up on a day off may seem counter intuitive to some, and that is totally understandable, you can still wear a quote unquote dressier sport shirt to differentiate yourself from all the flip flop wearing, Bud Light Lime nursing jerkstores out there.  If white collars are a crime, lock me up for 25 to life - actually let me get some community service if that's cool...

-L.A.S

Lusting After: Hamilton 1883 Red Linen Pullover

 

[Pictured: Hamilton 1883 red linen pullover available for $165.00.]

When Hamilton dropped their own version of a heritage line, Hamilton 1883, the blogosphere went mad.  I mean, an American shirt maker hitting their archives to produce faithful recreations of a few classics in a modern fit is kinda like a big deal around these parts.  Anyhow, despite being as stoked as I was when it all dropped I had been sleeping on them recently - or at least until my man John ignited that flame once again when he pointed me in the direction of a some new S/S 2010 releases.  The best of the bunch, in this humble guy's opinion, is the red linen pullover seen above.  There's a lot going on so I'll do my best to articulate my lust.

Details are not something Hamilton skimps on.  The shirt has a button down collar, pleated front pocket, cuffed sleeves and a 4 button abbreviated placket, which makes for the perfect pullover/popover.  The best part about this shirt, however, is a synthesis of American and Neapolitan style.  While Hamilton and the pullover are steeped in Americana (I recall reading somewhere that the first Brooks Brothers shirt was a popover) the red dyed double ply Italian linen creates a wonderful European foil.  If you saw the price at the top and were just waiting for your chance to rip it apart in the comments please remember that lusting is free.

-L.A.S

Watch Men

[Pictured: American Field Watches circa World Wars I & II.]

Originating in the 1880's, the field watch gained steam as the prevalent time piece during the first World War due to soldier's demands for reliable and portable time devices.   These accurate, shock resistant watches, much like army fatigues, grew to represent American no frills, utilitarian design.  The technological advancements of WWII also extended to the watches.  With solid forged steel cases and thick, strong straps, the watches were more battle ready than ever.

The field watch saw a resurgence in the 1970's as the populatity of outdoors sports increased.  Suddenly there was once again a demand for a less expensive, rugged watch that, above all else, was readable and reliable.  By the 1980's the field watch was so popular that it had earned the reputation as the "blue-jeans" of timepieces.*

The field watch has recently been experiencing a similar resurgance to that of the 1970's/80's as it finds itself very much at the center of the menswear heritage/workwear movement.  Guys who would typically pass over such a watch in favor of something more intricate and expensive are drawn to the field watch's simple aesthetics and rich history.  Outdoors companies like L.L. Bean and Orvis are offering the same field watches they have for years, while brands like Timex (in a "collaboration" with J. Crew) are re-releasing models from their past. 

If you're in the market for a cool, new watch and don't want to spend north of a king's ransom look into a field watch.  I recommend going the vintage route by picking up one of the hundreds available on eBay.  You can find plenty of working watches (sans band if you like) at a bargain of the new asking price.  Thanks to a tip from Nick, I am currently trying to secure a vintage L.L. Bean field watch as we speak (you're crazy if you think I'm going to link it up here, though hopefully I can post on it when I win the auction).  If you're worried a vintage option is too much of a risk, try any one of the new varieties posted below. 

I'm really into black face (wow, this can definitely be taken out of context) watches in general, so that's what I would recommend as far as faces are concerned.  Otherwise, there's not much else going on outside of the band you choose.  The field watch is a complete "less is more" piece and that's the way a watch should be.  No matter if it's a field watch or a Cartier tank watch, the simpler the better.  On the matter of bands, most of these allow you to switch in and out the band of your choosing.  Grosgrain seems to be what's trending right now so either head down that route, or go in the opposite direction.  For someone looking to break new ground, try a simple cotton (waxed even) band or some type of nylon (braided possibly) to keep with the understated theme of the watch's face.  Or you could just say "screw it" and throw on a vintage leather band.  I can't imagine anything cooler right now than a "blacked-out" field watch.  Who watches the watch men? I do, that's who...

L.L. Bean Classic Field Watch...$89

Orvis Briar Haven Field Watch...$69

Timex Expedition Retro Metal Field Watch...$39.59

J. Crew x Timex Military Watch...$150.00

Hamilton Men's Khaki Field Watch...$116.99

 

-L.A.S

*Field watch lead in pictures and history paraphrased and sourced from here.

Sart Inc's Fall Wish List

It is most definitely fall and here is what Sartorially Inclined is most definitely jonesin' for....

1. Penfield Kasson Parka...$165

You get your heritage fix with the buffalo red and black plaid lining and your protection from the elements thanks to the water resistant/wind proof outer.  By the way, I prefer the jacket in tan.


2. Hamilton 1883 White with Red Stripe Oxford...$185

These shirts just hit the web and are faithful recreations from Hamilton's archive.  The Houston shirtmaker updated the fit, however, for today's slim-fitting sportshirt demand.

3. The Hill-Side Selvage Chambray Bandana...$44

Since it's not that cold by me a scarf isn't all that necessary.  Instead I'm thinking of going with a bandana.  Full of cool details and made from fabric sourced in Japan, this can be worn around the neck, in a shirt pocket or peaking out the back pocket of your cords. 

4. Patagonia Slingshot Down Vest...$125

I love the vaguely western shoulder details on this Patagonia vest and the flap pockets in the front.  The color ways are great and as far as keeping your core warm, look no further.

5. Rugby by Ralph Lauren Corduroy Jean...$89.50

My J. Crew chords are about worn down to chinos at this point, so I figured I'd upgrade to these fall offerings from Rugby.  Slim through the waist and leg, they look as good rolled up as they do tucked into boots.  Check out all the great color offerings...Deep Autumn and College Green are particularly intriguing.

6. L.L. Bean Boots 8"...$84

The classic, coveted fall footwear (and banner leading man) finally makes its debut here at Sartorially Inclined though, I'll be honest, I have never owned a pair of Bean Boots.  GASP! 'Tis true my friends, but that is all about to change this fall even if I still cannot decide what height to go with.  At the time of writing the 8" has caught my fancy so it'll do for now.

-L.A.S