-L.A.S
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Gant by Michael Bastian S/S 2011
As much as I dug Gant by Michael Bastian's F/W 2010 collection it's inspiration could have been viewed as limited for lack of a better term. When working around the sport of lacrosse there is only so much one can do without losing the overall idea that set things in motion in the first place, especially when it comes to sportswear. And you know what? I get it. If you or I were going to design a debut collection for a major brand from scratch it would sure as hell help to have a concrete framework in place. Things are different this time around and that's why I dig the new S/S 2011 collection so much. Instead of running with something extremely specific this season seems much more grounded in broader ideas or, even, feelings. It may be less tangible, but it's much more effective. Yeah, the starting point was Marilyn Monroe's husbands, but that's just where things begin. S/S 2011 is lived in prep. A rethinking of old money style. A relaxed confidence gained from summering on the coast. A kind of confidence that doesn't care what other people think - an innate "go to hell" aesthetic. An aesthetic that manifests itself in Nantucket red trucker jackets, printed dinner jackets and destroyed cotton. It's washed out colors and beat to shit gear. The collection, much like the Gant brand recently, is reconstructed and repurposed. Mix all that in with the best tailored clothes at the given pricepoint and you've got yourself one hell of a collection. The installation, based on Monroe and DiMaggio's Niagara Falls honeymoon in 1956, also looked real cool. Not many designers would be bold enough to go the whole vignette route, but I guess that's why not many designers are Michael Bastian. One thing's for damn sure - I'm beating myself up for not working the presentation into my schedule. I done messed up big time on that one. Check out the entire thing over at GQ and please don't forget about the ladies.
-L.A.S
-L.A.S
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Pic #8: Embroidered scuba dudes on his pants? Can't tell.
ReplyDeleteLugg- Baseball bats.
ReplyDeleteNice prose man, you really captured what's going on. I'm kinda mixed on this one overall. I get the concept and the delivery but some of the looks and pieces keep bugging me. Things like the zip up sweater and flip flops with khakis are too 90's Abercrombie bro and I still don't know if jean shorts are due for a comeback; but then the raincoat with ripped jeans and loafs, the shawl dinner jacket, the grey suit and the khaki suit absolutely kill it. I'm interested to see what everyone else says.
ReplyDeleteWhile I like the color combo, the hot pants in photo 6 aren't working for me.
ReplyDeleteBased on the photos, I don't like it. It seems overwrought, immature, and unfocused. Definitely not an old money "go to hell" look.
ReplyDeletelove vintage gant but honestly this looks like bad jcrew.
ReplyDelete"A rethinking of old money style. A relaxed confidence gained from summering on the coast" - this is not only indefensibly vacuous, it is utterly poor writing. "Summering on the coast" - who the f talks like this? How do you gain confidence from being a white, priveleged prick? Conveys a real sense of self-awareness.
ReplyDeleteAgain....lovely press release copy LAS.
ReplyDeleteAnon- What press release are you talking about? This is all 100% original copy. Or are you just calling out my writing?
ReplyDeleteOld Money doesn't have style. I'd love to hear someone's take on what Old Money has contributed to style since, well, since it was new money.
ReplyDeleteNecessity has always been the mother of invention. Ambition is the mother of innovation. Old Money is complacent, and that shows in every wannabe preppy rehash of a narrow aesthetic that hasn't shifted in generations.
Stuff like this isn't a celebration of Old Money style. Its a celebration of New Money (if that) suckering itself into spending its New Money on ever more over-priced gags yet again.
Old Money's "doesn't care what other people think" attitude doesn't come from confidence in it's style, it comes from not needing to care what others think. Old Money isn't telling you to "go to hell". Old Money didn't even notice you were in the room.
At best, Old Money's only remarkable and conscious contribution to style lies in the occasional inside joke amonst itself -- let see how many poseurs will be wearing this ridiculous look next summer!
This is costume for new money, and its damed obvious.
I would no sooner wear this than a soiled (destroyed!) overcoat in tribute to the "go to hell" attitude of a transient, regardless of the relaxed confidence gained from wintering on sewer grates and not freezing to death.
@incredulous, any given subgroup of people is bound to have many styles. Nothing is contributed to anything unless someone takes an example and incorporates it into something else. Which is pretty much the definition of contribution, and that has happened numerous times. Just because you don't think it's happened doesn't mean your view is correct. Also, there isn't one style of old money, same for new. Hence, why it would make sense when L.A.S. talks about rethinking what old money style is, and applying it in a new way. Which is mainly what fashion is about, taking pre-existing ideas, garments, or textiles and applying them in a new way.
ReplyDeleteThat being said, it also need not be a celebration of old money or new money, I'd say it's more Americana than anything. Or, at least, what MB envisions as being Americana. You are right about GTH however, but that also doesn't imply that some people aren't naturally imbued with a GTH attitude that would not be classified as old money. I've been in the same room as billionaires and couldn't give a damn, yet I'm not one. You superficially believe defending old money somehow justifies everything, and even worse that anyone actually cares what they think.
@David
ReplyDelete"Also, there isn't one style of old money, same for new. Hence, why it would make sense when L.A.S. talks about rethinking what old money style is, and applying it in a new way."
So what we are really talking about is the remixing of a caricature. Like I said, costume.
These looks definitely evoke a disdain for the opinion of others. But looking like a mess doesn't become "style" just because Old Money does it. I find the idea of paying (and premium retail prices, no doubt) to look like you don't care what you look like to be ironic and sad.
While I can admit that there are few things lamer than pre-distressed gear, jean shorts and the very phrases "go to hell" and "old money" I think we should take a second, forget the copy and how this is styled and look at the clothes. There are some really great ideas in there. Self patchwork chinos and cord shorts? That's a grown-up's patchwork madras. A raglan sleeve button down? That's a pretty thoughtful way of referencing baseball in a woven without a big logo. The muted colors of that fun shirt make it the first I've ever seen that is actually wearable and tailored clothing options look really fantastic. Couple all of these things with a fit that J.Crew has been trying and failing miserably to replicate and you've got a thoughtful collection that's needs some guidance when it comes to denim.
ReplyDeletezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz....zzzzzzzzzzzzz....zzzzzzzzzz
ReplyDeleteAbercrombie & Fitch is really doing wonderful things these days.
ReplyDeleteA BB fun shirt, destroyed jeans and flip-flops. Pinch me.
ReplyDelete