Sunday, September 13, 2009

Open Love Letter: Clarks




[Pictured: Sartorially Inclined's current collection of Clarks Originals. Not pictured are my laceless Desert Treks which are quarantined back in NJ]

My love affair with Clarks Shoes began in 2005 when I purchased my first pair of Desert Treks. I had no idea the brand even existed until my freshman year of college at Wake Forest University. Every single southern kid was rocking Clarks Wallabees and I wanted to get in on the trend, but decided to branch out a little and for a while I was the only kid on campus with Desert Treks. Since that defining moment I've purchase 3 pairs of desert boots (1 pair was a gift for my father) and a pair of Wallabees. No other brand of shoes, outside of Sperry Topsider, will come more highly recommended by yours truly. I love all of the Clark's Originals for their classic/timeless style and versatility. Every one of these shoes could be worn with a suit to your cousin's wedding or with chinos/denim out to the bar on Friday night. I am going to do a run down on all three of the major styles of Clark's Originals and talk a little about each and why I love them so much.

[All pictures courtesy of clarks.com]

The Desert Boot

My current favorite out of the bunch and many in the fashion world share my sentiments. Dessert Boot style shoes have been popping up all over the place since their re-entry into the public consciousness around a year, or so, ago. The Dessert Boot has been a staple for close to 60 years and has been favored by guys like George Harrison(look at the shoes all the way to the left) and Steve McQueen. I have yet to find anything these boots don't go well with and no matter the season my Desert Boots always find their way into my wardrobe rotation. Yes, even with shorts (sans socks). My favorite colorway is the one posted above...I love the sand suede with the crepe sole. Not many shoes can offer everything encompassed within the Desert Boot. It possess a refined ruggedness that can be as informal or formal as you choose.

The Wallabee


If you've seen my profile picture you know I love me some Wallys. It is rare you find a pair of shoes endorsed by guys ranging from Ghostface Killah to JFK Jr. The Wallabee is a tad less formal than the Desert Boot, but just as versatile and clutch. It is another all season shoe, with a great weight/bulk to it. The "chuncky-ness" of the Wallabee instead of being cumbersome adds an almost endearing quality to the shoe. In fact, I find the boxy and geometric shape of the shoe very refreshing considering today's obsession with streamlined silhouettes. Lacing them loosely or not at all can add such a great nonchalance to any outfit. A favorite of southern frat boys, the Wallabee is just at home in Nantucket or NYC. My Wallabees are the boot version, but I am currently enamored with the original model seen above. They look great in suede and are just as dashing in leather...no matter what kind you gravitate towards they will most definitely end up being the most comfortable shoes you own.

The Desert Trek

The shoe that sparked this whirlwind romance 4 years ago rounds out this foray into the Clarks Originals. Considering the popularity of the Desert Boot and Wallabee the Trek is your best way to get into the Clarks action without overplaying your hand, though recent face time at the Gilded Age Spring 2010 presentation may change that. These center-seam shoes take ques from moccasin design and deliver an understated, relaxed look...and with only two eyelets for laces the Trek delivers a slip-on appearance when wearing pants. I recommend the brown leather ones seen above, and while the suede Trek's are just as nice I believe the leather lends itself much more to the center-seam design.

So go buy a pair, or two, or three and wear them with everything. You'll look great, stand out and your neglected sneakers will probably cry a few tears. All of the Clarks Originals are reasonably priced (Desert Boot = $95, Wallabee = $120, Desert Trek = $100) and can be found at Clarks/Zappos online store. Take my word (and JFK's and McQueen's) for it and add any one of these to your collection and it wont be long before you add another, and another, and another...

-L.A.S

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Revisited: L.L. Bean Blucher Mocs

Background: In a segment dubbed "Revisited" I am going to be highlighting pieces that at one point or another were trending as hot items, but for whatever reason have not received press of late. Hopefully these posts will serve as a way to inject some new/old style without "trend-humping" or "band wagon jumping".



Flipping through the GQ archives I stumbled (back) upon the classic L.L. Bean blucher moccasin. I'm a huge fan of anything L.L. Bean and the debut of their signature collection this Spring is probably my most anticipate line of clothes in a long time. GQ endorsed these lovely shoes back in Nov. 2007 siting their status as the preferred footwear for designers, like Michael Bastian, and their models. I've already talked about the boatshoe chukka for autumn, but I really like these mocs as a cool alternative as well. With an attainable/reasonable price point ($69) and a variety of colors, everyone is sure to find something they like about this footwear legend.

In the words of GQ Creative Director Jim Moore, "L.L.Bean created its now classic Blucher Moc in 1936. The idea was to give Maine dwellers a casual shoe that would help their feet withstand the state’s damp and often unpredictable climate. Today its untrendy status is what makes it so desirable. Of-the-moment menswear designers like Tim Hamilton and Michael Bastian love to wear them, as do their models. And why wouldn’t they? They’re virtually indestructible and can be worn every day of the year, with bare feet or the thickest of wool socks."

-L.A.S



[scan courtesy of The Pursuit Aesthetic (great read btw), courtesy of GQ magazine]

Friday, September 11, 2009

Autumn Coating

With the current shifting of the seasons it is no surprise that fall themed posts continue to dominate over here at Sartorially Inclined. While winter coats/jackets typically steal the spotlight (toggle/duffle coats, yes please!) there are a variety of lighter and cool top layers to keep you warm as the leaves change colors. I am going to run through a bunch of fall jacket options, with links to buy and thoughts as per usual.

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Fall Jacket Primer:

1. The Jean Jacket

An american staple that has yet to go out of style. You can't go wrong with the original from Levi's and it will look great paired with your pinwale cords or chinos this fall. Available at urbanoutfitters.com, this version is classic and gives you the opportunity to fray its edges and break it in. I'm not a fan of buying pieces that come pre-destroyed. What's the fun in that? Now there are guidelines (not rules) to wearing a jacket like this with jeans...I, and many others, recommend that your jacket and jeans be different color washes. Too many denim pieces in the same wash invoke the dreaded Canadian Tuxedo and no one wants that. Also, unless you are feeling real ballsy, you probably want to limit your denim pieces to one or 2 per ensemble as well (i.e. jean jacket with jeans, jean jacket with denim shirt, etc.)

2. The Leather Jacket

[photo courtesy of GQ.com]
Who doesn't want to be James Dean? Since none of us are ever going to be THAT cool, all we can do is buy a leather jacket, a pack of cigarettes and pretend. With that being said, you need to get the right leather jacket. Stay away from pieces with a traditional collar, since you end up looking more like The Fonz than Jimmy D. Fit is extremely important too and with a leather jacket you should always buy a size down. This will keep the proportions in check...the jacket should hit at your waist and hug your torso. Your best bet is always a "slim-fit" style/silhouette, which will exhibit said characteristics and have higher set armholes. GQ's "How to Buy a Leather Jacket" feature/slide show is a great read before shelling out the big bucks leather often costs...which brings us to our next topic...price. Leather is expensive, no doubt, but there are always alternatives to getting a second mortgage on your house just to secure a cool jacket. I prefer using Ebay when it comes to big purchases like this in order to secure a more reasonable price point without sacrificing selection. A quick browse yielded a few cool options and I am currently bidding on two distinct (color and style) jackets, both of which are under $100 after shipping.

3. The Fatigue

This Army inspired jacket has been popping up all over the place recently and you can find the style at pretty much every major store. These cottom/polyester jackets are pocket driven and come in a variety of fall ready colors (forest green, brown, etc). This is a very casual jacket and cannot be dressed up like the leather jacket or even the jean jacket to a certain extent...I do not recommend rocking a shirt and tie under a fatigue jacket. You can find these rugged classics at The Gap (on sale), J Crew, Banana Republic or you can turn to an army surplus store for something, GASP, authentic (see above pic).

4. The Trench/Mac

Ah, the classic straight out of England. Many people are familiar with the iconic Burberry double-breasted trench coat or the Mackintosh rain coat. Rain gear is a critical/essential part of every guy's wardrobe and as high-tech as some modern soft shell rain jackets are (Northface, Spyder, etc.) nothing beats these originals when it comes to style. If you want the coveted Burberry trench, Ebay is your best bet. I have been monitoring a bunch of reasonably priced and often gently used ones and the selection is out there. If you want something non-vintage/new/cheaper there are some great coats out there. It's no surprise that some of the best trenches on the market are UK made (those guys know what they're good at). I love some of the current shorter models like this stand out from Asos. Topman also makes a fantastic shorter version trench and full size trench as well. It takes a certain swagger to wear a trench coat, especially when belted, so don't spend the money if you're not completely in touch with your inner dandy.

-L.A.S

Thursday, September 10, 2009

In Search of the Perfect Chinos...Pt. I

I could easily write an essay about my search for the perfect pair of chinos. Somewhere out there a pair exists that can do everything a chino is supposed to do: Look great rolled up with boatshoes, sit perfectly atop a pair of wingtips, look natural with a pair of sneakers when going to the supermarket, etc. A lot is expected from the chino as it is supposed to be the ultimate versatile style weapon in any guys arsenal. I have owned countless cuts from J. Crew, The Gap, Banana Republic (all the major players) and have yet to find that multipurpose gem. Not one pair can walk the line between formal and casual without losing its inherent classical American charm. Luckily for me I may just have found my perfect pair...


While browsing the Hickey online store I came across a fantastic pair of chinos, the Twill Americana Slim Trouser to be exact. I had no idea Hickey sold items online (big ol' shame on me), but if there ever was a time to discover this it was now. For those not in the know, Hickey is the younger, hipper, slimmer brother of Hickey Freeman and is a brand that get lots of love from the right people, i.e. GQ, men.style.com, etc.

These chinos are not only the number 1 contenders to end my lifelong search, but are also easy on my checking account, retailing for $78 marked down from $195. This is a comparable price point with J. Crew's chinos which are by no means as "hip" or well constructed as Hickey's (a purchase should never be made solely off of hipness, but it is something that should be at least mentioned in this discussion of price). It should be noted that my total order came to around $90 after shipping and tax. The search for the perfect chino is ongoing and you can expect a sequel to this post, where in which I will discuss all the specifics once these arrive in the mail. The realization that I am leaving a lot up to chance is dully noted. Having ordered my standard waist size and hoping the length works out is a dicey move. Every now and then a little risk and luck go a long way...especially in fashion and ESPECIALLY with chinos.

-L.A.S

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Throw it in the Bag


Every guy needs a decent bag. We are not talking man-purses or anything of the sort, but a good bag for weekend trips and such. Any good piece of luggage can be quite expensive, which can be a buzzkill considering you may only use it a few times a year. Luckily Urban Outfitters has teamed up with leathermakers/accessory designer extraordinaires Billy Kirk for an affordable and cool looking bago callabo (sorry for the rhyme). From the looks of it the bag, called The Brothers Bray, seems to be just the right size. It's not going to be mistaken for your girlfriend's and is not too big that it can't be busted out during your everyday commute. Classic styling and materials (vinyl, leather, cotton lining) is the name of the game with everything these days, luggage included and Billy Kirk's pieces adhere to this mantra. All the pieces are classically influenced and built to last (these guys make all their stuff in Amish Country for god's sake). I need a weekender bag like this pretty baldy so I'm going to order one and do a review of it when it arrives. The bag is retailing for a reasonable $88 and available online so act fast (click to buy at urbanoutfitters.com). You don't want to be the guy in the airport admiring my luggage.

-L.A.S

[Edit: Apparently it's on backorder until 9/20/09 so take a number, get in line behind the sartorially inclined (including myself) and plan all trips accordingly]

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Autumn Docking

Ask anyone who knows me and they will tell you that boat shoes are my go to footwear. They look great (classic style, lines) and are comfortable as anything you can wear on your feet. With autumn around the corner it's time to ditch those boat shoes...or is it? Enter the boat shoe chukka/boot. These hybrid kicks combine all the styling (and utility) you love and a more cold weather design. With an added upper it is now okay to wear socks, a big "no-no" when wearing traditional boat shoes. This chukka design has been around for a little while, but is just recently getting the treatment from most all boat shoe designers/companies. I am pretty high on the boat shoe chukka and have been trying to get a pair for a while with the big choices being color and material. I have searched high and low for some of the best options in this style and have put them together. They are arranged from cheapest to most expensive along with some comments from myself.

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Fall Boat/Dock Chukka Primer:

1. Topman Black Ankle Height Boat Shoe...approx. $91 (also available in white)

Black is going to be a big theme this fall and these boat shoes piggyback the trend. For those not in the know, Topman is a British brand thus all prices are in pounds and shipping can be hefty.





2. Sperry Authentic Original Chukka...$110


Nothing beats the original right? Here we have Sperry's offering in two Fall ready colors. I particularly like the one with flannel accents as it screams colder weather wear instead of Hamptons and sailboats.










3. Original Sperry Topsider Chukka for J. Crew...$125

Similar to #2, but with the J. Crew seal of approval which translates to chambray lining and a more unique color scheme. The key difference here is the neutral sole as oppose to the white sole found in #2. This may seem minor but is a major element since white soles are typically found on summer shoes and not fall shoes.

4. Men's Chukka by Band of Outsiders...$240


For all our big spenders and trend setters we have the Band of Outsiders and Sperry collaboration. These boat shoe boots are brand new for Fall and continue the history of Band of Outsiders taking everything you thought you knew about Sperrys and absolutely destroying it (in a good way). I def. cant afford these or pull them off, but since this blog isn't ALL about me, they get a shout out. Anything Band of Outsiders touches sells out quick so act soon if you want to get your hands on what are undoubtedly the most coveted kicks of the bunch.

-L.A.S

Billy Reid and Southern Essentials

I am currently nursing some strange hangover/swine flu hybrid from a decidedly awesome Labor Day weekend, but have decided to blog anyway. My trip to the "deep" south didn't yield any real post worthy material though I guess at the end of the day my weekend did serve as southern style fodder so it wasn't a complete wash.



This theme of southern style was perfectly timed with a great feature from men.style.com. Every so often the website gets together with someone connected to fashion (i.e. designers, celebs, brand managers, etc.) and asks them to talk about their 10 essentials. The most recent is from designer Billy Reid, who happens to be one of my favorite designers. I have gone to his shop in Charlotte a few times, and if there happens to be a good sale it is not uncommon to see me reaching deep into my pockets (I am already planning ahead so that I can get a pair of his handmade Italian leather shoes). Billy expertly blends many elements in his collections, which despite their forward thinking never lose their southern edge. Billy's 10 essentials tell you a good deal about his vision and fashion sensibility. His designs are rugged, American and understand that the best inspiration is often found in the past. Southern, American style is understated and elegant and he knows this.



When I think of Billy's clothes and his vision my mind often wanders to Kings of Leon. These guys are not only fantastic musicians but can out-dress almost anyone in music right now. Their rockstar style (leather, jewelery, shades), much like their music, is grounded in their southern upbringing. I wish I could look as cool as these dudes and pull off the whole devil may care, yet expertly styled look. Maybe if I keep spending money at Billy Reid I just might(aint nothing wrong with being poor and looking good) or I guess I could just become a rockstar.

-L.A.S