Looking Back With MB

Michael Bastian is easily one of my favorite designers.  When I was revisiting some of his older S/S collections I started seeing lots of great stuff I had forgotten about and figured it might be interesting to use as a bit of inspiration.  Obviously this isn't a call to go and blow all your money on various MB pieces, but instead a kind of retrospective and style guide - looking back to look forward if you will.  I personally believe that all of Michael's older stuff translates extremely well due to his ability to craft genuinely classic, masculine style.  Much like you can find 20 year old Polo gear at the thrift store and wear it out that night, these clothes have no true lifespan - though I won't be foolish enough to ever refer to garmenture as immortal.  Anyhow, these are some highlights I found (not including the most recent S/S collection) that I really think work well right now.  Some of this you may already know and some of it you may disagree with, but hopefully there is at least something to take away.

S/S 2009- Not everyone is ready, or ever ready, to embrace the gaudy aesthetic that is "go to hell".  Even if this is the case there is no reason to be afraid of some color and I'm talking bright color.  This look is 99% muted tones, many of which seem more F/W than anything else, but the tie is the center of it all.  It's not crazy. It's not a middle finger. It's a centered look with a stylish focal point that even the most nondescript dressers can embrace.

S/S 2009- Ah, the double breasted blazer.  A hallmark for many gentlemen, both modern and traditional.  Like most people when I think of the double breasted blazer my mind automatically goes to the classic, the original, the nautical - blue with gold buttons.  When comparing that image, while still fantastic, to the above khaki version I am actually inclined to side with the look featured here.  It's an iconic silhouette, but geared up for the season.

 

S/S 2009- A familiar image with a familiar message.  Like a few readers have commented before, it's not an argument for or against pleats, but an endorsement that well fitting pants are well fitting pants.  Don't shun a pair of pants because they are pleated. Shun a pair of pants because they don't fit.

S/S 2009- For those of us who do embrace the aforementioned "got to hell" style it is important to know when to say when (another familiar Sart Inc message).  Wearing rolled salmon pants is totally fine, but it's when you put on a yellow seersucker shirt and madras blazer on top of it that things start to approach the comical.  In this specific instance the colored pants are the anchor of the outfit, while everything else stays muted - it's another great example of balancing louder S/S pieces with what are normally thought of as F/W colors.

S/S 2008- There has been a ton of white jean, and just pants for that matter, chatter recently as they are a cornerstone to your breezy warm weather look.  Here MB dresses up his white pants, which could easily be your white 501's.  Pairing them with a crisp shirt, tie and blazer is a great way to dress up your summer nights.  Check out the double breasted blazer look above - same thing.  Unbeatable, unwavering, sound style.

S/S 2008- The debate over the best kind of warm weather outerwear is an endless one, but I think this look makes a great case for the cotton pea coat.  Its style recalls colder months, but the fabric lends itself perfectly for spring showers or chillier night time temperatures.  Wax it, leave it as is, whatever - Lands End Canvas is selling their own version that is as cheap as it is cool.

S/S 2007- I'm not sure how everyone feels about beach pants, but I can imagine it is as divided as the conversation on sweatpants.  As the weather heats up it is important to stay cool and relaxed and beach pants are a great way to accomplish this.  There is no need to over think them at all because of just how casual of a garment it is.  Like the picture above shows, wear them with your favorite sneakers and windbreaker.  Who cares if they're a little baggy or the drawstring is untied? The whole point is that it's easy, comfortable and you could care less because you are on your way to the beach.

-L.A.S

S/S Footwear Primer: High

Despite being a little less structured than the low end list I still tried to be fairly comprehensive with my high end recommendations.  The disclaimer from before applies here as well: "Ultimately this blog reaches a wide range of people and I just want to make sure everyone is covered.  I realize some of you have already seen a lot of this stuff so read on accordingly.  Also, lots of these shoes (probably all of them actually) have gotten some face time on Sart Inc in the past, but I thought it would be helpful to bring them all together in one convenient location."  Anyhow, for all the trustfunders and the financially irresponsible I present to you Sartorially Inclined's S/S Footwear Primer: High...

The Buck:
Mark McNairy's Red Brick Soul Suede Derby...$258.00

 

I promised myself I wouldn't geek out over McNairy AGAIN, but it's really hard not to.  These shoes speak for themselves and are the perfect dirty buck in my book. Great color, red brick sole, goodyear welt, hiking laces, etc. Game. Set. Match.

The Longwing:

Loake Royal Shoe...$196.00 

I realize you can spend a ton more and get a pair of Alden or Allen Edmonds longwings, but I figured I'd do my best to even keep the high end on a short leash where I could.  The Loake Royal in burgundy is a great looking shoe with a classic shape, a Goodyear welted sole and leather insoles.  These puppies are bench made in England and should last you a very long time without forcing you to file for Chapter 11 immediately after you swipe your plastic.

The "Moccasin":
Allen Edmonds Grayson...$325 or $525 for cordovan

I know, I know - these aren't true moccasins so please forgive me.  I'm not the biggest fan of high end moccasins so for me a moc toe, tassled loafer is a great shoe for a sockless S/S.  With that being said, I'm partial to the AE Grayson in the merlot colorway as I believe it adds another level of sophistication to an already sophisticated style of shoe.  Talk about a great way to top off a casual kit.

The Boat Shoe:
Quoddy Deck Chukka...$274

 

If you are going to step up your boat shoe game I personally believe you should man up and go with a chukka version.  Quoddy makes the hands down best in the game and odds are you already know why so I won't bore you by rehashing the details.  I will mention, however, that if the white sole is a little too WASP-y you can always have it switched out for a camp sole.

The Penny Loafer:

Alden Leisure Handsewn Moccasin...$404.00

 

This is your classic Bass Weejun except it's on performance enhancing drugs. Much like all the brands on this list Alden's reputation precedes itself.  The penny loafer is a classic silhouette that every guy should have in his closet. Dress it up or dress it down, it doesn't really matter.  Remember to start from the ground up and if you have the money remember to start with Alden.

-L.A.S

S/S Footwear Primer: Low

Starting tonight and concluding tomorrow I will be presenting (ego check) my S/S footwear primer for anyone out there who is looking for a little advice on what knockabouts to purchase for the upcoming season.  My plan is to start with a guide detailing my "low" picks for those not trying to drop a lot of coin and finish up with all the ritzy stuff.  Ultimately this blog reaches a wide range of people and I just want to make sure everyone is covered.  I realize some of you have already seen a lot of this stuff so read on accordingly.  Also, lots of these shoes (probably all of them actually) have gotten some face time on Sart Inc in the past, but I thought it would be helpful to bring them all together in one convenient location. Oh yeah, I don't do sandals in case you were wondering why I didn't offer them a seat at the cool kids table.  Throw away all your socks and enjoy.  Without further ado I present to you Sartorially Inclined's S/S Footwear Primer: Low...

The Sneaker: 
Vans Authentic...$42.00

I know what you're thinking and the answer is: No, you're not too old to wear Vans.  Warm weather sneakers should be one part canvas, one part classic and no one fits the bill better than Vans.  The Authentic is the epitome of iconic and understated.  You can get them in a variety of colors though I am going to recommend you take the natural route.  Don't worry if you don't skate as the Authentic is a lifestyle shoe first and foremost.  If you like to relax and drink outdoors on the weekend you're all good.

The Boat Shoe:
Sperry Authentic Original...$75.00

 

Why you would buy your boat shoes from anyone else is beyond me.  Everything I've ever needed to say about the Authentic Original (especially in the above colorway) I've already said.

The Buck:
Bass Brockton...$64.00

 

Go with white and don't be afraid to get them messy.  And when they get scuffed as all hell you'll be real happy that you spent under seventy bones.  The Bass Brockton has a great toe box and sole, but be aware that these ship out in May.

The Moccassin:

L.L. Bean Blucher...$69.00 

 

When I first started writing this blog (my fourth day in the blogosphere to be exact) I tried to bring these "back". Turns out they weren't only back, but they were the absolute shit. Nobody told me.  I'll never make the same mistake again.

The Loafer:

Sebago Classic...$130.00

You know you want to look like you just stepped out of "Take Ivy" and there is no better starting point than a great loafer.  Everyone's jocking Bass these days so why not grab Sebago's classic beef roll penny?  A bunch of colors (even the elusive navy), and the option for either a finished or unfinished sole seal the deal.

The Saddle:
Bass Burlington...$89.00

 

Whether you want a serious two tone or to keep it in the same color family, Bass has you covered.  And, like any great S/S shoe, they all come complete with a red brick sole.  Count it now and when they ship out in March (someone at Bass needs to get a handle on seasonal demand).

The Boot:

L.L. Bean Boot Rubber Moc...$59.00 

I realize these aren't "boots" in the traditional sense, but it does rain in spring and you need to be prepared.  Do I really need to explain this pick? Yeah, didn't think so.

-L.A.S

The Great Wayfarer Flood of 2009

[Ray Ban Wayfarers]

If I learned anything from my first collegiate homecoming it's that everybody's now wearing Ray-Ban Wayfarers.  At a tailgate this past Saturday I'd venture to say that roughly 75% of those wearing sunglasses had on Wayfarers or some kind of knockoff.   Don't get me wrong, I love Wayfarers and own a black pair which I wear a lot, but at some point we need to pump the breaks and switch gears.  I own a few pairs of sunglasses and while there is no exact science behind picking which ones I wear out of the house, it just feels good to have options.  In an effort to remedy "The Great Wayfarer Flood of 2009" I've listed some alternatives below.  Note that I have left out prices for some and instead linked to eBay since you can almost always get the sunglasses you are looking for at about 40-70% off (even on a "buy it now").

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Sunglasses Primer:

Persol 649

Persol 714

Persol is probably my favorite brand of sunglasses.  Italian's know their shades and the proof is in the pudding, or should I say product.  Instead of getting a pair of plastic frame aviators, try something like 0649's or 0714's which take the lens shape, but add a much more unique frame style.  Not to mention the silver accents on the stems are killer.  McQueen wore 'em. So can you.

 Ray Ban Clubmasters

Clubmasters just scream "old school Hollywood poolside cool".  Hard to find for a while, Ray Ban's Wayfarer success has led to these badboys finding their way back into stores, onto shelves and into my heart.  They have similar lenses to their Wayfarer cousins, but ditch the thick plastic frames for a much more subdued, sleeker silouhette.  A must have for any serious sunglasses aficionado.

Ray Ban Aviators

Got with the Outdoorsman model. 'Nuf said.

Super Flat Top 

You may have seen these on Kanye at some point this year as they were the rapper's go to shades for most of the year (they were one of his men.style.com's 10 Essentials).  I like Super's modern take on classic sunglasses, and the Flat Top is a cool reinterpretation of the classic Wayfarer shape.  These are a little harder to find as you'll notice by the sparse eBay listings.  Check their website for retailers near you.

Moscot Nebb

If you weren't lucky enough to nab the Common Projcets + Moscot callaboration, the Nebb is your next best bet.  Moscot have been making glasses since 1915 when they set up shop in NYC and their original models are just as fresh today as they were then.

So I guess the moral of the story is to keep your Wayfarers and wear them with pride, but somewhere along the way let's add some variety and change things up every ONCE in a while.

[Pictured: Sartorially Inclined's shades.  Top Row (left to right): Ray Ban Clubmasters, Ray Bay Wayfarers. Bottom Row (left to right): Persol 649, Persol 2761S.  Apologies for my point and shoot. I need an upgrade badly. I guess I should stop spending all my money on sunglasses.]

-L.A.S

The Khaki Shirt

Flannel, chambray and denim workshirts are everywhere this fall and that's not such a bad thing.  Most stylish guys are going to have these shirts/fabrics in heavy rotaion, but there are other options out there.  Recently I've been seeing the khaki, or chino, shirt featured as a cool alternative to the previously mentioned, slightly over-exposed get-ups.  Taking its que more so from militray references, than classic workwear, the khaki shirt is a super clean option as far as fall shirts are concerned.  Lots of brands are ditching epaulets (those often non-functional, button-down shoulder straps) to create a simpler, stream-lined shirt that doesn't overtly announce its history, yet retains it's heritage.  I've compiled options from all the mainstream players so that the price points stay on the low side, but keep in mind that this could mean we have a trend on our hands...

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Khaki Shirt Primer:

The Gap...$44.50

Head designer Patrick Robinson keeps things casual, classic and most of all, wonderful yet again.  This guy really knows what he is doing and this khaki shirt from the American institution known as The Gap is another affordable classic piece (they keep churning 'em out these days).  Definitely the most casual of the bunch, this shirt would look great thrown on wrinkled, much like your pinpoint oxford.  Leave the tie at home, untuck and maybe even unbutton (undershirts required).

Banana Republic...$79.50

The more expensive older brother of The Gap is getting in on the action as well with a crisper, more dressy option.  The shirt appears to have a higher level of detailing (red thread on the top button), as well, which is always nice when attempting to justify price.  I like this shirt as a dressier option, i.e. tucked in with a rep or knit tie.  I can see this shirt being much more of an iron before you go out as oppose to a tumble dry.  Just keep in mind that when it comes to Banana, price doesn't really reflect quality...

J. Crew...$69.50

The champions of mainstream heritage return with their take on the classic.  Seemingly bucking the khaki color, they instead offer their chino shirt in both a fall friendly gray and bisque (their fancy way of saying "whtie").  If you already own a grey chambray or denim shirt, I would skip this option since unless you plan on being fondled (and you just may) not many people will be able to tell the difference.  On the other hand, if the khaki color is not your speed, this might serve as a great compromise.

There are lots of great options out there so don't feel like you need to wear flannel, chambray or otherwise.  As long as you stay informed there is never a need or reason to be trendy or fashionable...find a shirt that looks great, fits great and, most of all, feels great...I imagine you're likely to find a khaki shirt that is all three...

-L.A.S

Autumn Coating

With the current shifting of the seasons it is no surprise that fall themed posts continue to dominate over here at Sartorially Inclined. While winter coats/jackets typically steal the spotlight (toggle/duffle coats, yes please!) there are a variety of lighter and cool top layers to keep you warm as the leaves change colors. I am going to run through a bunch of fall jacket options, with links to buy and thoughts as per usual.

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Fall Jacket Primer:

1. The Jean Jacket

An american staple that has yet to go out of style. You can't go wrong with the original from Levi's and it will look great paired with your pinwale cords or chinos this fall. Available at urbanoutfitters.com, this version is classic and gives you the opportunity to fray its edges and break it in. I'm not a fan of buying pieces that come pre-destroyed. What's the fun in that? Now there are guidelines (not rules) to wearing a jacket like this with jeans...I, and many others, recommend that your jacket and jeans be different color washes. Too many denim pieces in the same wash invoke the dreaded Canadian Tuxedo and no one wants that. Also, unless you are feeling real ballsy, you probably want to limit your denim pieces to one or 2 per ensemble as well (i.e. jean jacket with jeans, jean jacket with denim shirt, etc.)

2. The Leather Jacket

[photo courtesy of GQ.com]
Who doesn't want to be James Dean? Since none of us are ever going to be THAT cool, all we can do is buy a leather jacket, a pack of cigarettes and pretend. With that being said, you need to get the right leather jacket. Stay away from pieces with a traditional collar, since you end up looking more like The Fonz than Jimmy D. Fit is extremely important too and with a leather jacket you should always buy a size down. This will keep the proportions in check...the jacket should hit at your waist and hug your torso. Your best bet is always a "slim-fit" style/silhouette, which will exhibit said characteristics and have higher set armholes. GQ's "How to Buy a Leather Jacket" feature/slide show is a great read before shelling out the big bucks leather often costs...which brings us to our next topic...price. Leather is expensive, no doubt, but there are always alternatives to getting a second mortgage on your house just to secure a cool jacket. I prefer using Ebay when it comes to big purchases like this in order to secure a more reasonable price point without sacrificing selection. A quick browse yielded a few cool options and I am currently bidding on two distinct (color and style) jackets, both of which are under $100 after shipping.

3. The Fatigue

This Army inspired jacket has been popping up all over the place recently and you can find the style at pretty much every major store. These cottom/polyester jackets are pocket driven and come in a variety of fall ready colors (forest green, brown, etc). This is a very casual jacket and cannot be dressed up like the leather jacket or even the jean jacket to a certain extent...I do not recommend rocking a shirt and tie under a fatigue jacket. You can find these rugged classics at The Gap (on sale), J Crew, Banana Republic or you can turn to an army surplus store for something, GASP, authentic (see above pic).

4. The Trench/Mac

Ah, the classic straight out of England. Many people are familiar with the iconic Burberry double-breasted trench coat or the Mackintosh rain coat. Rain gear is a critical/essential part of every guy's wardrobe and as high-tech as some modern soft shell rain jackets are (Northface, Spyder, etc.) nothing beats these originals when it comes to style. If you want the coveted Burberry trench, Ebay is your best bet. I have been monitoring a bunch of reasonably priced and often gently used ones and the selection is out there. If you want something non-vintage/new/cheaper there are some great coats out there. It's no surprise that some of the best trenches on the market are UK made (those guys know what they're good at). I love some of the current shorter models like this stand out from Asos. Topman also makes a fantastic shorter version trench and full size trench as well. It takes a certain swagger to wear a trench coat, especially when belted, so don't spend the money if you're not completely in touch with your inner dandy.

-L.A.S

Autumn Docking

Ask anyone who knows me and they will tell you that boat shoes are my go to footwear. They look great (classic style, lines) and are comfortable as anything you can wear on your feet. With autumn around the corner it's time to ditch those boat shoes...or is it? Enter the boat shoe chukka/boot. These hybrid kicks combine all the styling (and utility) you love and a more cold weather design. With an added upper it is now okay to wear socks, a big "no-no" when wearing traditional boat shoes. This chukka design has been around for a little while, but is just recently getting the treatment from most all boat shoe designers/companies. I am pretty high on the boat shoe chukka and have been trying to get a pair for a while with the big choices being color and material. I have searched high and low for some of the best options in this style and have put them together. They are arranged from cheapest to most expensive along with some comments from myself.

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Fall Boat/Dock Chukka Primer:

1. Topman Black Ankle Height Boat Shoe...approx. $91 (also available in white)

Black is going to be a big theme this fall and these boat shoes piggyback the trend. For those not in the know, Topman is a British brand thus all prices are in pounds and shipping can be hefty.





2. Sperry Authentic Original Chukka...$110


Nothing beats the original right? Here we have Sperry's offering in two Fall ready colors. I particularly like the one with flannel accents as it screams colder weather wear instead of Hamptons and sailboats.










3. Original Sperry Topsider Chukka for J. Crew...$125

Similar to #2, but with the J. Crew seal of approval which translates to chambray lining and a more unique color scheme. The key difference here is the neutral sole as oppose to the white sole found in #2. This may seem minor but is a major element since white soles are typically found on summer shoes and not fall shoes.

4. Men's Chukka by Band of Outsiders...$240


For all our big spenders and trend setters we have the Band of Outsiders and Sperry collaboration. These boat shoe boots are brand new for Fall and continue the history of Band of Outsiders taking everything you thought you knew about Sperrys and absolutely destroying it (in a good way). I def. cant afford these or pull them off, but since this blog isn't ALL about me, they get a shout out. Anything Band of Outsiders touches sells out quick so act soon if you want to get your hands on what are undoubtedly the most coveted kicks of the bunch.

-L.A.S