Toggle Fever > Swine Flu

[Pictured: Company of We Moses Toggle Coat...$325]

Everyone, including Sartorially Inclined, is endorsing Duffle coats (or toggle coats) this fall.  Valet. Mag just did a great piece on them in their Fall Buying Guide '09 entitled "The Classic" so check it out for a neat primer on the must have coat for fall. 

These British coats trace their history back to WWI, where they were worn by the British Royal Navy and have since become synomous with American preppy/nautical style.  There are a ton of options/variations out there so browse around (def. check eBay) for a style and color that suits your fall look.  My personal favorite (see above) is the offering from Company of We. It comes in a great naval colorway with white roping fasteners, a beautifully designed collar and cool leather details.

Since moving to the south my need for such a heavy wool coat has diminished, but if I was anywhere above the Mason-Dixon line you'd bet your ass I would be purchasing one of these as we speak. Thanks to J. Crew I can still get my duffle fix thanks to their awesome toggle hoodie.  The hoodie is a fall standard much like the duffle coat, so this is a great hybrid take on two classics.  J. Crew's offering is made of superfine wool, so it should be good for those chilly days and nights, even down here in Charlotte.  It is a little pricey, but for those of us who don't need to buy a new coat, this is a reasonable alternative.  Swine Flu, eat your heart out, I've got toggle fever...

[Pictured: J. Crew Wool Toggle Hoodie...$188]

-L.A.S

"What's In My Closet" - Vintage Levis Trucker Jacket

[Pictured: Sartorially Inclined's newest denim jacket, vintage Levis]

Charlotte doesn't have too many cool vintage shops, so when I heard all the good things being said about Hong Kong Vintage and Recycled I made it a point to stop in at some point over the weekend.  Unlike a Salvation Army, Goodwill or Value Village (pretty much all we got down by me) the wonderful ladies that run Hong Kong actually go on buying trips and don't let just anyone walk in and sell some old stuff.  They have specific decades they look for and when I popped in this weekend they had a great selection of sweatshirts and cowboy boots.  I had been meaning to pick up a denim jacket for a while, and since I already own two I wanted to make sure my latest purchase wasn't completely unnecessary.

My two previous jean jackets are both Levis as well (would you really buy from anyone else).  One is a fleece lined winter number (amazingly warm) that is unfaded and is the most "workwear" of the bunch, while the other is a standard trucker that I purchased off of eBay for around $13.  While both are great, I was looking for a new one for fall that was a tad more fitted than the one I got off of eBay (sz. 40).  Luckily for me the one at Hong Kong was not only extremely fitted (somewhere between a sz. 36-38) but also had some great details due to its vintage status.  The jacket fits snugly over a button down, has tight sleeves and the bottom of the jacket hits right at my waist. As you can see the collar is really torn up which creates a great accent/detail when the collar of the jacket is flipped or messed up (usually how i wear the collar).  Along with general fraying due to the jacket's age, the wash is great...there is unique fading on the elbows and on the body of the jacket.  I typically hate buying pre-destroyed clothing, but with vintage you know that the damage was not from a machine or done on purpose, but instead from a love of the clothes that called for everyday wear.

I've talked about denim jackets before and, as of right now, the denim jacket is my go to outerwear for fall.  I plan on wearing it over a preppy getup...i.e. oxfords, knit ties, flat front chinos and throwing in my Palladium Boots to create a great refined, yet rugged look I have already talked a great deal about.

For more general info about denim jackets, there is a great guide by Dan over at the Men's Style Blog and you know his stuff is good (though, I'm not sure about the whole pocket sqaure thing) because Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man of '09 can't be wrong...right?

-L.A.S

Autumn Coating

With the current shifting of the seasons it is no surprise that fall themed posts continue to dominate over here at Sartorially Inclined. While winter coats/jackets typically steal the spotlight (toggle/duffle coats, yes please!) there are a variety of lighter and cool top layers to keep you warm as the leaves change colors. I am going to run through a bunch of fall jacket options, with links to buy and thoughts as per usual.

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Fall Jacket Primer:

1. The Jean Jacket

An american staple that has yet to go out of style. You can't go wrong with the original from Levi's and it will look great paired with your pinwale cords or chinos this fall. Available at urbanoutfitters.com, this version is classic and gives you the opportunity to fray its edges and break it in. I'm not a fan of buying pieces that come pre-destroyed. What's the fun in that? Now there are guidelines (not rules) to wearing a jacket like this with jeans...I, and many others, recommend that your jacket and jeans be different color washes. Too many denim pieces in the same wash invoke the dreaded Canadian Tuxedo and no one wants that. Also, unless you are feeling real ballsy, you probably want to limit your denim pieces to one or 2 per ensemble as well (i.e. jean jacket with jeans, jean jacket with denim shirt, etc.)

2. The Leather Jacket

[photo courtesy of GQ.com]
Who doesn't want to be James Dean? Since none of us are ever going to be THAT cool, all we can do is buy a leather jacket, a pack of cigarettes and pretend. With that being said, you need to get the right leather jacket. Stay away from pieces with a traditional collar, since you end up looking more like The Fonz than Jimmy D. Fit is extremely important too and with a leather jacket you should always buy a size down. This will keep the proportions in check...the jacket should hit at your waist and hug your torso. Your best bet is always a "slim-fit" style/silhouette, which will exhibit said characteristics and have higher set armholes. GQ's "How to Buy a Leather Jacket" feature/slide show is a great read before shelling out the big bucks leather often costs...which brings us to our next topic...price. Leather is expensive, no doubt, but there are always alternatives to getting a second mortgage on your house just to secure a cool jacket. I prefer using Ebay when it comes to big purchases like this in order to secure a more reasonable price point without sacrificing selection. A quick browse yielded a few cool options and I am currently bidding on two distinct (color and style) jackets, both of which are under $100 after shipping.

3. The Fatigue

This Army inspired jacket has been popping up all over the place recently and you can find the style at pretty much every major store. These cottom/polyester jackets are pocket driven and come in a variety of fall ready colors (forest green, brown, etc). This is a very casual jacket and cannot be dressed up like the leather jacket or even the jean jacket to a certain extent...I do not recommend rocking a shirt and tie under a fatigue jacket. You can find these rugged classics at The Gap (on sale), J Crew, Banana Republic or you can turn to an army surplus store for something, GASP, authentic (see above pic).

4. The Trench/Mac

Ah, the classic straight out of England. Many people are familiar with the iconic Burberry double-breasted trench coat or the Mackintosh rain coat. Rain gear is a critical/essential part of every guy's wardrobe and as high-tech as some modern soft shell rain jackets are (Northface, Spyder, etc.) nothing beats these originals when it comes to style. If you want the coveted Burberry trench, Ebay is your best bet. I have been monitoring a bunch of reasonably priced and often gently used ones and the selection is out there. If you want something non-vintage/new/cheaper there are some great coats out there. It's no surprise that some of the best trenches on the market are UK made (those guys know what they're good at). I love some of the current shorter models like this stand out from Asos. Topman also makes a fantastic shorter version trench and full size trench as well. It takes a certain swagger to wear a trench coat, especially when belted, so don't spend the money if you're not completely in touch with your inner dandy.

-L.A.S