"In(Vested)"

My new piece on down vests for Debonair Magazine has gone live.  It talks a little about layering and highlights some of the coolest and affordable vests this fall.  Enjoy.

-L.A.S

Toggle Fever > Swine Flu

[Pictured: Company of We Moses Toggle Coat...$325]

Everyone, including Sartorially Inclined, is endorsing Duffle coats (or toggle coats) this fall.  Valet. Mag just did a great piece on them in their Fall Buying Guide '09 entitled "The Classic" so check it out for a neat primer on the must have coat for fall. 

These British coats trace their history back to WWI, where they were worn by the British Royal Navy and have since become synomous with American preppy/nautical style.  There are a ton of options/variations out there so browse around (def. check eBay) for a style and color that suits your fall look.  My personal favorite (see above) is the offering from Company of We. It comes in a great naval colorway with white roping fasteners, a beautifully designed collar and cool leather details.

Since moving to the south my need for such a heavy wool coat has diminished, but if I was anywhere above the Mason-Dixon line you'd bet your ass I would be purchasing one of these as we speak. Thanks to J. Crew I can still get my duffle fix thanks to their awesome toggle hoodie.  The hoodie is a fall standard much like the duffle coat, so this is a great hybrid take on two classics.  J. Crew's offering is made of superfine wool, so it should be good for those chilly days and nights, even down here in Charlotte.  It is a little pricey, but for those of us who don't need to buy a new coat, this is a reasonable alternative.  Swine Flu, eat your heart out, I've got toggle fever...

[Pictured: J. Crew Wool Toggle Hoodie...$188]

-L.A.S

The Khaki Shirt

Flannel, chambray and denim workshirts are everywhere this fall and that's not such a bad thing.  Most stylish guys are going to have these shirts/fabrics in heavy rotaion, but there are other options out there.  Recently I've been seeing the khaki, or chino, shirt featured as a cool alternative to the previously mentioned, slightly over-exposed get-ups.  Taking its que more so from militray references, than classic workwear, the khaki shirt is a super clean option as far as fall shirts are concerned.  Lots of brands are ditching epaulets (those often non-functional, button-down shoulder straps) to create a simpler, stream-lined shirt that doesn't overtly announce its history, yet retains it's heritage.  I've compiled options from all the mainstream players so that the price points stay on the low side, but keep in mind that this could mean we have a trend on our hands...

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Khaki Shirt Primer:

The Gap...$44.50

Head designer Patrick Robinson keeps things casual, classic and most of all, wonderful yet again.  This guy really knows what he is doing and this khaki shirt from the American institution known as The Gap is another affordable classic piece (they keep churning 'em out these days).  Definitely the most casual of the bunch, this shirt would look great thrown on wrinkled, much like your pinpoint oxford.  Leave the tie at home, untuck and maybe even unbutton (undershirts required).

Banana Republic...$79.50

The more expensive older brother of The Gap is getting in on the action as well with a crisper, more dressy option.  The shirt appears to have a higher level of detailing (red thread on the top button), as well, which is always nice when attempting to justify price.  I like this shirt as a dressier option, i.e. tucked in with a rep or knit tie.  I can see this shirt being much more of an iron before you go out as oppose to a tumble dry.  Just keep in mind that when it comes to Banana, price doesn't really reflect quality...

J. Crew...$69.50

The champions of mainstream heritage return with their take on the classic.  Seemingly bucking the khaki color, they instead offer their chino shirt in both a fall friendly gray and bisque (their fancy way of saying "whtie").  If you already own a grey chambray or denim shirt, I would skip this option since unless you plan on being fondled (and you just may) not many people will be able to tell the difference.  On the other hand, if the khaki color is not your speed, this might serve as a great compromise.

There are lots of great options out there so don't feel like you need to wear flannel, chambray or otherwise.  As long as you stay informed there is never a need or reason to be trendy or fashionable...find a shirt that looks great, fits great and, most of all, feels great...I imagine you're likely to find a khaki shirt that is all three...

-L.A.S

"What's In My Closet" - Vintage Levis Trucker Jacket

[Pictured: Sartorially Inclined's newest denim jacket, vintage Levis]

Charlotte doesn't have too many cool vintage shops, so when I heard all the good things being said about Hong Kong Vintage and Recycled I made it a point to stop in at some point over the weekend.  Unlike a Salvation Army, Goodwill or Value Village (pretty much all we got down by me) the wonderful ladies that run Hong Kong actually go on buying trips and don't let just anyone walk in and sell some old stuff.  They have specific decades they look for and when I popped in this weekend they had a great selection of sweatshirts and cowboy boots.  I had been meaning to pick up a denim jacket for a while, and since I already own two I wanted to make sure my latest purchase wasn't completely unnecessary.

My two previous jean jackets are both Levis as well (would you really buy from anyone else).  One is a fleece lined winter number (amazingly warm) that is unfaded and is the most "workwear" of the bunch, while the other is a standard trucker that I purchased off of eBay for around $13.  While both are great, I was looking for a new one for fall that was a tad more fitted than the one I got off of eBay (sz. 40).  Luckily for me the one at Hong Kong was not only extremely fitted (somewhere between a sz. 36-38) but also had some great details due to its vintage status.  The jacket fits snugly over a button down, has tight sleeves and the bottom of the jacket hits right at my waist. As you can see the collar is really torn up which creates a great accent/detail when the collar of the jacket is flipped or messed up (usually how i wear the collar).  Along with general fraying due to the jacket's age, the wash is great...there is unique fading on the elbows and on the body of the jacket.  I typically hate buying pre-destroyed clothing, but with vintage you know that the damage was not from a machine or done on purpose, but instead from a love of the clothes that called for everyday wear.

I've talked about denim jackets before and, as of right now, the denim jacket is my go to outerwear for fall.  I plan on wearing it over a preppy getup...i.e. oxfords, knit ties, flat front chinos and throwing in my Palladium Boots to create a great refined, yet rugged look I have already talked a great deal about.

For more general info about denim jackets, there is a great guide by Dan over at the Men's Style Blog and you know his stuff is good (though, I'm not sure about the whole pocket sqaure thing) because Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man of '09 can't be wrong...right?

-L.A.S

Land's End Fall 2009

Instead of blowing your hard earned dollars on Fall fashion that is insanely overpriced, why not flip through the pages of your Land's End catalog (Who am I kidding? You're just going to go to the website). You're bound to find some really great pieces with some really great price points. If you're partial, like I am, to the Americana, heritage look, brands like Land's End can help you build up a great wardrobe with plenty of cash left over. Land's End, like most clothing companies these days, it acknowledging that people want timeless clothes that end up being a great value. After checking out the new arrivals for Fall, I came across some great items that deserve the Sartorially Inclined cosign.

Men's Regular Long Sleeve Chambray Workshirt ($32.50)

The chambray workshirt is EVERYWHERE as of recent and I've been wearing my Gap warm weather version for over a year. As the weather cools, I am definitely in need of a thicker replacement. The Land's End model seems perfect and comes in this awesome faded black (almost a dark gray) colorway. Any button front shirt is a crucial part of a layered look and this chambray shirt in a great fall material and color will do just the trick. While everyone else is sure to be wearing too much flannel, you will find me in my chambray. For a look straight out of the McQueen handbook, keep the front pockets unbuttoned. Also, check out the "Wait, is this a misprint" price...$32.50 for a great chambray workshirt, hell yeah.

Men's Brown Suede Wingtip Shoes ($99.50)

In the most recent webisode of men.stlye.com's fantastic "In The Closet" co-host Tyler Thoreson shouts out brown suede shoes as one of his Fall Essentials. Sartorially Inclined has a bad case of wing tip fever so I am loving these brown suede versions. I can already see them going perfectly with some cuffed denim (selvedge, please) or Donegal tweed pants for Fall. It's tough to find any wing-tips under $100 so these are a great bargain.

Lands' End Men's Tailored Fit 2-button Year 'rounder Blazer ($175.00)

Land's End is going all GQ on us and the result is surprisingly impressive. Utilizing everything but an Italian tailor, they have created a designer blazer for about 1/4th of the price. The super 100's wool fabric makes it a year round blazer in a classic navy blue that will never, I repeat, never go out of style. The blazer's side vents, slim lapels and trim cut make it modernized and if you really can't stand the nautical brass buttons, you can take the jacket to your dry-cleaner/tailor and have them switched out. Overall, the blazer is a timeless piece with a modern fit and a reasonable price point.

-L.A.S

Revisited: L.L. Bean Blucher Mocs

Background: In a segment dubbed "Revisited" I am going to be highlighting pieces that at one point or another were trending as hot items, but for whatever reason have not received press of late. Hopefully these posts will serve as a way to inject some new/old style without "trend-humping" or "band wagon jumping".



Flipping through the GQ archives I stumbled (back) upon the classic L.L. Bean blucher moccasin. I'm a huge fan of anything L.L. Bean and the debut of their signature collection this Spring is probably my most anticipate line of clothes in a long time. GQ endorsed these lovely shoes back in Nov. 2007 siting their status as the preferred footwear for designers, like Michael Bastian, and their models. I've already talked about the boatshoe chukka for autumn, but I really like these mocs as a cool alternative as well. With an attainable/reasonable price point ($69) and a variety of colors, everyone is sure to find something they like about this footwear legend.

In the words of GQ Creative Director Jim Moore, "L.L.Bean created its now classic Blucher Moc in 1936. The idea was to give Maine dwellers a casual shoe that would help their feet withstand the state’s damp and often unpredictable climate. Today its untrendy status is what makes it so desirable. Of-the-moment menswear designers like Tim Hamilton and Michael Bastian love to wear them, as do their models. And why wouldn’t they? They’re virtually indestructible and can be worn every day of the year, with bare feet or the thickest of wool socks."

-L.A.S



[scan courtesy of The Pursuit Aesthetic (great read btw), courtesy of GQ magazine]

Autumn Coating

With the current shifting of the seasons it is no surprise that fall themed posts continue to dominate over here at Sartorially Inclined. While winter coats/jackets typically steal the spotlight (toggle/duffle coats, yes please!) there are a variety of lighter and cool top layers to keep you warm as the leaves change colors. I am going to run through a bunch of fall jacket options, with links to buy and thoughts as per usual.

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Fall Jacket Primer:

1. The Jean Jacket

An american staple that has yet to go out of style. You can't go wrong with the original from Levi's and it will look great paired with your pinwale cords or chinos this fall. Available at urbanoutfitters.com, this version is classic and gives you the opportunity to fray its edges and break it in. I'm not a fan of buying pieces that come pre-destroyed. What's the fun in that? Now there are guidelines (not rules) to wearing a jacket like this with jeans...I, and many others, recommend that your jacket and jeans be different color washes. Too many denim pieces in the same wash invoke the dreaded Canadian Tuxedo and no one wants that. Also, unless you are feeling real ballsy, you probably want to limit your denim pieces to one or 2 per ensemble as well (i.e. jean jacket with jeans, jean jacket with denim shirt, etc.)

2. The Leather Jacket

[photo courtesy of GQ.com]
Who doesn't want to be James Dean? Since none of us are ever going to be THAT cool, all we can do is buy a leather jacket, a pack of cigarettes and pretend. With that being said, you need to get the right leather jacket. Stay away from pieces with a traditional collar, since you end up looking more like The Fonz than Jimmy D. Fit is extremely important too and with a leather jacket you should always buy a size down. This will keep the proportions in check...the jacket should hit at your waist and hug your torso. Your best bet is always a "slim-fit" style/silhouette, which will exhibit said characteristics and have higher set armholes. GQ's "How to Buy a Leather Jacket" feature/slide show is a great read before shelling out the big bucks leather often costs...which brings us to our next topic...price. Leather is expensive, no doubt, but there are always alternatives to getting a second mortgage on your house just to secure a cool jacket. I prefer using Ebay when it comes to big purchases like this in order to secure a more reasonable price point without sacrificing selection. A quick browse yielded a few cool options and I am currently bidding on two distinct (color and style) jackets, both of which are under $100 after shipping.

3. The Fatigue

This Army inspired jacket has been popping up all over the place recently and you can find the style at pretty much every major store. These cottom/polyester jackets are pocket driven and come in a variety of fall ready colors (forest green, brown, etc). This is a very casual jacket and cannot be dressed up like the leather jacket or even the jean jacket to a certain extent...I do not recommend rocking a shirt and tie under a fatigue jacket. You can find these rugged classics at The Gap (on sale), J Crew, Banana Republic or you can turn to an army surplus store for something, GASP, authentic (see above pic).

4. The Trench/Mac

Ah, the classic straight out of England. Many people are familiar with the iconic Burberry double-breasted trench coat or the Mackintosh rain coat. Rain gear is a critical/essential part of every guy's wardrobe and as high-tech as some modern soft shell rain jackets are (Northface, Spyder, etc.) nothing beats these originals when it comes to style. If you want the coveted Burberry trench, Ebay is your best bet. I have been monitoring a bunch of reasonably priced and often gently used ones and the selection is out there. If you want something non-vintage/new/cheaper there are some great coats out there. It's no surprise that some of the best trenches on the market are UK made (those guys know what they're good at). I love some of the current shorter models like this stand out from Asos. Topman also makes a fantastic shorter version trench and full size trench as well. It takes a certain swagger to wear a trench coat, especially when belted, so don't spend the money if you're not completely in touch with your inner dandy.

-L.A.S

Autumn Docking

Ask anyone who knows me and they will tell you that boat shoes are my go to footwear. They look great (classic style, lines) and are comfortable as anything you can wear on your feet. With autumn around the corner it's time to ditch those boat shoes...or is it? Enter the boat shoe chukka/boot. These hybrid kicks combine all the styling (and utility) you love and a more cold weather design. With an added upper it is now okay to wear socks, a big "no-no" when wearing traditional boat shoes. This chukka design has been around for a little while, but is just recently getting the treatment from most all boat shoe designers/companies. I am pretty high on the boat shoe chukka and have been trying to get a pair for a while with the big choices being color and material. I have searched high and low for some of the best options in this style and have put them together. They are arranged from cheapest to most expensive along with some comments from myself.

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Fall Boat/Dock Chukka Primer:

1. Topman Black Ankle Height Boat Shoe...approx. $91 (also available in white)

Black is going to be a big theme this fall and these boat shoes piggyback the trend. For those not in the know, Topman is a British brand thus all prices are in pounds and shipping can be hefty.





2. Sperry Authentic Original Chukka...$110


Nothing beats the original right? Here we have Sperry's offering in two Fall ready colors. I particularly like the one with flannel accents as it screams colder weather wear instead of Hamptons and sailboats.










3. Original Sperry Topsider Chukka for J. Crew...$125

Similar to #2, but with the J. Crew seal of approval which translates to chambray lining and a more unique color scheme. The key difference here is the neutral sole as oppose to the white sole found in #2. This may seem minor but is a major element since white soles are typically found on summer shoes and not fall shoes.

4. Men's Chukka by Band of Outsiders...$240


For all our big spenders and trend setters we have the Band of Outsiders and Sperry collaboration. These boat shoe boots are brand new for Fall and continue the history of Band of Outsiders taking everything you thought you knew about Sperrys and absolutely destroying it (in a good way). I def. cant afford these or pull them off, but since this blog isn't ALL about me, they get a shout out. Anything Band of Outsiders touches sells out quick so act soon if you want to get your hands on what are undoubtedly the most coveted kicks of the bunch.

-L.A.S