"What's In My Closet" - Vintage Levis Trucker Jacket

[Pictured: Sartorially Inclined's newest denim jacket, vintage Levis]

Charlotte doesn't have too many cool vintage shops, so when I heard all the good things being said about Hong Kong Vintage and Recycled I made it a point to stop in at some point over the weekend.  Unlike a Salvation Army, Goodwill or Value Village (pretty much all we got down by me) the wonderful ladies that run Hong Kong actually go on buying trips and don't let just anyone walk in and sell some old stuff.  They have specific decades they look for and when I popped in this weekend they had a great selection of sweatshirts and cowboy boots.  I had been meaning to pick up a denim jacket for a while, and since I already own two I wanted to make sure my latest purchase wasn't completely unnecessary.

My two previous jean jackets are both Levis as well (would you really buy from anyone else).  One is a fleece lined winter number (amazingly warm) that is unfaded and is the most "workwear" of the bunch, while the other is a standard trucker that I purchased off of eBay for around $13.  While both are great, I was looking for a new one for fall that was a tad more fitted than the one I got off of eBay (sz. 40).  Luckily for me the one at Hong Kong was not only extremely fitted (somewhere between a sz. 36-38) but also had some great details due to its vintage status.  The jacket fits snugly over a button down, has tight sleeves and the bottom of the jacket hits right at my waist. As you can see the collar is really torn up which creates a great accent/detail when the collar of the jacket is flipped or messed up (usually how i wear the collar).  Along with general fraying due to the jacket's age, the wash is great...there is unique fading on the elbows and on the body of the jacket.  I typically hate buying pre-destroyed clothing, but with vintage you know that the damage was not from a machine or done on purpose, but instead from a love of the clothes that called for everyday wear.

I've talked about denim jackets before and, as of right now, the denim jacket is my go to outerwear for fall.  I plan on wearing it over a preppy getup...i.e. oxfords, knit ties, flat front chinos and throwing in my Palladium Boots to create a great refined, yet rugged look I have already talked a great deal about.

For more general info about denim jackets, there is a great guide by Dan over at the Men's Style Blog and you know his stuff is good (though, I'm not sure about the whole pocket sqaure thing) because Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man of '09 can't be wrong...right?

-L.A.S

Swingin' in the weekend with Arnie

Here at Sartorially Inclined we have the upmost respect for Mr. Arnold Palmer, and we are sad to say that we missed his birthday back on September 10th.  Piggbacking off of Ivy Style's post about the coolest athlete ever, I thought this would be a good time to talk about Arnie.  I am extremely proud to call Arnold Palmer one of my personal style icons and an alumnus of the same college I graduated from (Wake Forest University, stand up).  Arnold's style was all classic cool.  Cigarettes on the golf course, perfectly fitting polos and, oh yeah, domination of a major sport.  GQ named Palmer one of its "50 Most Stylish Men of the Past 50 Years" and, in my mind, he's right up there with the holy trinity of McQueen, Redford and Newman.  GQ writes...

"In the early 1960s, Arnold Palmer was more than a golfer: He was a superstar—the Elvis Presley of sports. With his horde of fans (Arnie’s Army) and his pomaded pompadour, Palmer brought golf to the masses. He could dress, too, favoring flat-front gabardine pants with a heavy crease and wool cardigans. And those fitted golf shirts: “There was some talk that maybe my muscles were too big for the shirts,” Palmer admits today. But sportswriter Frank Deford has testified that Palmer’s cool came from those L&M’s: “All America had this image of Palmer taking a cigarette out of his mouth, throwing it on the green to putt, and then sticking it back in his mouth. It was golf’s equivalent of Bogart and Bacall. It’s odd to think of a cigarette as an athletic totem, but back then it was sexy. Palmer with a cigarette was like those old convertible ads with a beautiful woman sitting in the front seat and her scarf blowing in the wind.”

I was lucky enough to find some of those awesome Arnold Palmer x Robert Bruce polo's Arnold used to wear back in the 60's, the ones with the umbrella logo, and hopefully I can secure them and post about them at a later date.  On a much thirstier note, I will surely be crushing a few Arnold Palmer and vodkas (aka 'John Dalys') this weekend in honor of the man, a fellow Demon Deacon and style legend.  I encourage you all to do the same.  Happy belated Birthday Arnie, I got you a polo.

Sincerely,
L.A.S

[The Patriot.]

[The professional.]

[The cardigans.]

[The chicks.]

[The cigs.]

[The shoes.]

[The swagger.]

[The Man.]

Polo Ralph Lauren Ranger Boots

[Pictured: Tan Ranger Boots available at polo.com and zappos.com.]

Sometime last year Polo decided to re-release its 90's classic, The Ranger Boot, and due to the insanely high demand the boots were brought back for Fall '09.  Dubbed "cookie" boots, due to the circular Polo logo, the Rangers are legendary among Ralph Lauren aficionados.  They first came to the attention of Sartorially Inclined late last spring when they were featured in men.style.com's "Obsessives" video series.  Rapper 88-Keys has an absurd Polo collection and in the clip he shows off his dead stock Rangers.   The reason I am posting the Ranger Boot is due to their ridiculously resonable price of $149.  This may very well be the best leather boot for fall under $200.

One of the great things about this boot is how unique its look is.  I am a huge fan of the rugged sole, lace/strap combo and the moccasin toe/construction.  As far as color is concerned, I prefer the brandy (below) to avoid any unwanted Timberland or motorcycle boot associations.  The Ranger Boot doesn't really look like many of the other boots on the market and this individuality is rare, especially on an item that is such a focus of fall fashion (alliteration much, geeez).  For the price, you can't really get much better...top brand: check, good looks: double check, durability: triple check.  Sartorially Inclined is most surely looking into getting a pair to use in tandem with canvas Palladiums.  Everyone needs one great pair of leather boots for fall and for under two bills the Ranger Boot stomps out the competition.

-L.A.S

[Pictured: Brandy and black colorways]

"What's In My Closet?" - Pebbled Leather

[Pictured: Sartorially Inclined's black pebbled leather wingtips]

I recently purchased these wonderful NOS (new, old stock) black pebbled leather wingtips from a now defunct company called Georgetown Footwear for Gentleman (fantastic name).   While I am not going to preach the virtures of wingtips for the 100th time, I am instead interested in dicussing the wonderfully textured material known as pebbled leather.  For those unaware, pebbled leather is leather with a granulated surface as oppose to its more common, smooth appearance/feel.  Pebbled leather is in no way a new trend or anything of the like, but it can be easily overlooked when shopping around for a new pair of dress shoes so I figured I would discuss it here.

When doing some research in preperation for my next wingtip purchase I stumbled upon the beautiful shoes that Thom Browne makes and wears (see below).  His shoes are WAY out of my price range, but they pointed me in the right direction and got me thinking about texture.  The black pebble leather wingtip is a great shoe in that, much like any great piece, its beauty lies in the details.  A common glance may very well overlook the texture of the shoe, but that's kind of the point.  It is a minute detail (especially in a black shoe) that the wearer knows exists and feels good about.

[Pictured: Thom Browne wingtips. Notice the subtle texture.]

You can use these details and the confidence that comes with them to build a great outfit from the ground up, literally and figuratively.  Much like suede wingtips, the pebbled leather version takes a classic and tweaks it just enough so that the essence of the shoe is not lost, but, instead, updated and personalized.  Not to mention, if Thom Browne (damn that guy can dress!) wears 'em, I'm buying 'em...

-L.A.S

[Top view feat. Johnson and Murphy shoe trees.]

 

[Pebbled leather, close up view.]

In Search of the Perfect Chinos...Pt. II

As you may recall, Sartorially Inclined was on the hunt for the perfect pair of chinos.  Well after some shipping mishaps and world class customer service (no sarcasm) my Hickey chinos finally arrived today.  Ladies and gentleman, I think we have our winner.   I'll do a quick run down of what I was looking for, how the chinos actually stacked up and post some pictures.

[Pictured: New Hickey Chinos feat. argyle socks]

1. Fit - The chinos are just slim enough to not make them not look too fashionable, but at the same time have a much more modern fit then say, a pair of Dockers.  I own a ton of pairs of so called "modern-fit" or "slim-fit" or "tailored" chinos, but Hickey really nailed it.  Somewhere in between formal (a summer chino suit pant) and casual (classic officer's chino) exists this version from Hickey.  The waist and length are just what I expected so no surprises from a pair of pants I did not try on before I purchased them.

2. Material - This may be the ultimate victory as far as Hickey's craft is concerned.  They found the perfect cotton weight that will actually work year round.  Substantial enough to feel like a pair of true chinos, but not too thick that they would be cumbersome on the deck of a sailboat come summer...one word: versatile.

3. Details (See pictures below) - There are some great lining features as well as a unique coin pocket, and internal buttoned pocket, a notch in the back of the waist, red accented zipper and a great hem.

Sartorially Inclined recommends these to anyone looking for that new great pair of chinos.  I truly believe I am going to be wearing these to work and also out to the bar on Saturday night.  The fact that they are on sale is all the more reason to drop some coin on a pair of pants that hits all the right notes.  The perfect pair is out there, it just takes a little hard work to find...but, then again, that's where I come in...

[Notice the unique coin pocket and red accented zipper.]

[Cool internal button pocket and lining detail.]

Stumbled Across: Weekend In The Woods

Some cool stuff I have stumbled across recently and my corresponding thoughts...

Field and Stream SLB Shirt...$52.00

[Photography courtesy of men.style.com]

Work/outdoor shirts are getting so much love this fall and it's easy to see why...these shirts are pure, unadulterated Americana (aka badass).  I particularly like this Field and Stream SLB shirt due to its authenticity, utility and detailing.  Click on the link to see all the awesome stitching and little exciting things this shirt has to offer.  I love the coal black colorway, which gives the shirt just a hint of "fashion-y" sensibility.  Instead of shelling out $100+ for some designers take on a shirt that was never ment to see the elements, spend half on the real deal.  By the way, SLB means "strong like bull"...did I mention how badass this shirt is?

The Brothers Bray & Co. (Billy Kirk x Urban Outfitters) Weekender...$98

 

[Photograph courtesy of acquiremag.com]

Here at Sartorially Inclined we have sung the praises of the awesome collaboration between the guys at Billy Kirk and Urban Outfitters.  Here is the latest luggage accessory from the pair and boy is it a winner.  I am currently waiting for my Brothers Bray tote to get delivered, but I am kinda wishing I had waited and gotten this instead.  The Weekender is another beautifully simple canvas and leather offering with great details (red vinyl lining).  You can expect this to go on backorder quicker then you can roast a marshmellow so act fast if it's something you covet.  To read more about the callaboration check out this interview (via selectism.com)  with Chris Bray of Billy Kirk.

ASOS Leather Hiking Boots...$63.83

I love this shoe because it is a hybrid that actually takes the BEST parts of a bunch of shoes and creates something equally, if not, better (the sum IS the whole of its parts).  You'll notice the obvious nods to blucher mocs, classic sneakers, and traditional hiking boots.  These hiking boots (this description should be taken with a grain of salt...much more conducive for a stroll in the city than a hike up the side of a mountain) are the essence of versatility and will work with all your fall looks.  It's great that Asos is offering an inexpensive shoe that will go equally as great with your raw denim as your wool trousers.  This is a must buy as far as Sartorially Inclined is concerned.

-L.A.S

Trim The Fat

I used to hate tucking in my shirt, but with maturation comes class and now I feel sloppy unless I'm properly tucked (yes, even with jeans).  The only problem with this is the billowing or blousing effect that occurs as my shirt becomes un-tucked with everyday movements.  For the past year or so I have been trying to buy slim-fit shirts to help with this problem.  By eliminating extra, unwanted fabric and raising the arm holes my shirts look much cleaner when tucked in and stay that way.  Slim-fit shirts also make any guy look about 10 pounds lighter then they do with a regular shirt.  So many guys are scared of more form-fitting clothes when all it does is make them look better.  Another overlooked bonus of the slimmer cut shirt is that it is much easier to layer over.  Ditching excess fabric only enables sweaters, vests and jackets to sit much more flush with your torso creating smoother lines and silhouettes.  A lot more companies are moving towards a much slimmer cut shirt that can be found outside the confines of designer (and expenssive) labels.  Here are some options to work with...

Land's End Tailored Varsity Buttondown Oxford Shirt...$19.50

[Pictured: My two oxfords that fit just as well as advertised.]

I just bought two of these (one in white, one in blue) thanks to the reasonable price point and the fact you can never have too many oxford shirts.  This updated classic has a more modern fit and collar (works better with slimmer ties).  You know what you're getting with Land's End...a quality product with a timeless American appeal.  When mine arrive in the mail, I will be sure to update on the specifics. For more information check out the shout-out from valetmag.com.

Asos Tailored Slim Fit Shirt...$18.24 (on sale)

Asos makes a great fitting shirt, and you can't beat this price.  I have three of these tailored slim fit shirts and they fit great.  For those of you out there who are skinny this is probably your best bet.  The shirt is flattering without being too tight that you feel awkward wearing it to the office.  Let the buyer beware: price is reflective of quality material in this case.  This will be by no means the most comfortable shirt you own.

Brooks Brothers Extra-Slim Fit...$79.50

You know that when a brand as conservative as Brooks Brothers is slimming down that we have more then a mere trend on our hands.  The pricey-est of the bunch, this shirt is def. for those looking to drop a little extra cash for quality.  Since Brooks Brothers shirts were gigantic to begin with, this trimmer cut is a great way to ease yourself into a new cut of shirt.  Look for a little blurb on the new slimmer Brooks Brothers in this month's GQ (pg. 70).