Washed Denim

These days it feels like everyone is preaching raw denim or bust as if it's the end all be all when it comes to your jeans.  I've helped feed the beast on this one, no doubt, but consider this my way of making up for lost time.  While raw denim is a favorite of the style set due to its unique fading and the various personalization that comes with each wear, it's not always the best move in S/S.  The heavy nature of the raw (unwashed) and often stiff fabric is a recipe for an uncomfortable outing, especially in the dog days of summer.  Assuming you don't want to ditch your jeans in favor of chinos, shorts or various other cotton trousers, what are you gonna do?  Well, white jeans are always a popular choice, but they can be tricky to pull off.  Not to mention, if you doubt yourself while wearing white jeans you're as good as finished.  At this point it seems as if conventional style knowledge tells us that our only choice is to suffer through the heat.  And don't get it twisted, you can totally do that if you want to. I've done it myself and I'm sure I'll do it again at some point.  If form truly outweighs function in your specific case, who am I to tell you that you should change - just keep doing you.  But for those of you who are looking to avoid the unfortunate scenario of sweating right on through your pants, you might want to look into a pair of great fitting, washed jeans.  Shit, maybe even selvedge.

[Pictures courtesy of The Sartorialist, GQ and Jake Davis.]

There's no real tricks or rules.  Wear them just like you would your most prized pair of raw denim.  Dress 'em up with a tucked in shirt, knit tie and blazer or neat roll them so there's no break and pull out your haggard ass Vans.  You love your raw denim, not just because of how they represent your specific lifestyle (i.e. your grease stains, your creases, etc.), but also how effortlessly they can bring a kit together.   With such a classic and stylish base, even your white tees look unstoppable.  I don't think there is any reason to think washed jeans can't do the same thing.  Except this time you won't look like you just got ambushed by some punk ass kids on a water balloon drive by - that's never a good look.  In fact, you could even argue that washed jeans look better this time of year.  Their light coloring and smooth texture really has that whole S/S aesthetic vibe thing on lockdown, eh?

The marketplace isn't as flushed with washed jeans that keep things classic and understated (i.e. the wash itself and the cut of the jean) as it is with raw options so a little bit of digging is encouraged.  If you are a little hesitant about going back to washed or are just straight up broke start at the mall (blasphemy!).  Gap, J. Crew and Levi's should have some options, some of which may indeed be selvedge, which really helps when showing off to girls how many blogs you read on your lunch break.  If you're big doggin' it and money aint a thang brands like RRL, Brunello Cucinelli, Spurr, Billy Reid, 4 stroke and Baldwin Denim have pricier numbers that will last longer and hold up despite the thin, washed cotton.  So I guess what I was trying to say was that raw denim is great and everyone knows it, but that doesn't mean it's your only option.  Washed denim - try it out.  Or not. Whatever. Food for thought.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Thanks to everyone who helped me out with this one over on that Twitter thing and read Prepidemic's take for some more insight.]

Attn: Back By Popular Demand

The J. Crew webstore has a new (at least to me) section entitled "Back By Popular Demand" which will serve as a place to highlight the "perennial" favorites that had previously sold out or "were just too good not to come back for yet another season".  It's hard to believe why some of these items are back or have any popular demand associated with them - cough polos cough, but J. Crew is reissuing their ever popular McAllister boots, distressed Jack Purcell's and the Alden waxed Longwing collaboration.  If you're a massive fan of J. Crew and had your eye on a specific item that has since been long gone I recommend heading over and checking out what's up for grabs.

As a side note, I kinda wish some of my favorite brands did something similar to this. That way I could have all three styles of Allen Edmonds Mora's and some of the absolutely killer WWM outerwear styles from yesteryear among other things.  A kid can dream I guess...

-L.A.S

Toggle Hoodie

If you used to rock with Gilt, or still do for that matter, you may already be familiar with the toggle hoodie.  It seemed that every Trovota (founded by the Shipley and Halmos gents) sale came stacked with a few to be unloaded.  I always thought the concept of the toggle hoodie was cool in that it gave you a little cold weather styling (i.e. toggle/duffle coat steeze) that you could work into your wardrobe when it wasn't frigid enough to wear traditional toggle garments.  Regardless of whether you ever ended up copping the Trovota joint you can grab J. Crew's newly released version in a linen-cotton blend, which is perfect for this time of year.  The final product is a nice little combo of surf/beach and outdoorsy aesthetics perfect for all your various summertime chilly night tomfoolery.

-L.A.S

White Collar Crime

As in the two tone shirt is often overlooked and ignored when it comes to casual sportswear which is a crime as far as I am concerned.  Just like how I talked about here, a great way to step up your casual looks is to pair your standard kit (raw denim, chinos, shorts, what have you) with a white collar shirt.  I really like the idea of throwing on a shirt like this, even with some neckwear, to wear when going about all you S/S business.  Lots of brands are releasing a variety of casual shirts with white collars for the upcoming season and I am totally on board with this and even if you're out of the office there is nothing wrong with tucking in your shirt and throwing on a tie.  There is something to say about a guy who even in his time off takes the effort to keep things classy upstairs.  Just because you are used to wearing your jeans and sneakers on the weekend doesn't mean you have to exclusively rock white tees.  While knotting up on a day off may seem counter intuitive to some, and that is totally understandable, you can still wear a quote unquote dressier sport shirt to differentiate yourself from all the flip flop wearing, Bud Light Lime nursing jerkstores out there.  If white collars are a crime, lock me up for 25 to life - actually let me get some community service if that's cool...

-L.A.S

The Cargo Pants Conundrum

[Note: Valet talked about this a while back, but after getting my own pair of "cargo" pants I felt it was time to chime in and expand.]

Even with the workwear, heritage movement at full steam you'd be hard pressed to find a pair of cargo pants on any well-dressed guy.  This is extremely strange to me especially with guys channeling military and hunting looks more so than ever.  The cargo pant stigma can be easily traced back to the extreme overexposure and abuse it received at the hands of white-suburbia-tween-mega-mall clothier such as Abercrombie & Fitch, American Eagle, Aeropostale, and Old Navy.  I guess you could include both the Gap and J. Crew on this list, but we will leave them off purely based on their current merit.

When shopping the Woolrich Woolen Mills sale on Gilt this past week I came across (and you might have too) a great pair of chinos that featured large, bellow front pockets.  I clicked on them as fast as humanly possible and was lucky enough to grab a pair in my size.  I realize these are not exactly the kind of cargo pants that we think of when we picture a northern state school frat dude doing a keg stand, but they are a sign that designers are finally giving the "cargo" pant a second life.

When browsing around the internet, I was able to come across various versions of either the traditional cargo, the "field" pant (Woolrich Woolen Mills pant I mentioned earlier) or some combination of the two.  As you would expect, all these pants succeed thanks to vintage detailing and fit.  One of the issues with the old version cargo pant was the absurdly roomy leg they heavily featured.  While cargo pants should never be slimmed down, a nice trim never hurt anybody.  If you're looking for a new pant this fall, especially one that will look killer with your Red Wings or whatever boot you're currently breaking in, try anyone of these cool vintage inspired cargo pants.

Woolrich Woolen Mills Field Pant...$225.00

The pants featured in both the Valet piece and similar to the pair I picked up at the Gilt sale.  While these are a little pricey, they are the best example of front pocket field pants available for purchase.  My pair lack the flannel lining and come equipped with larger pockets, but I'm assuming they are from a past season (hence the discount and Gilt sale).  I'm sure Woolrich WM will revisit this style in a more Spring friendly fabric, so feel free to wait or throw these high class options on your holiday wishlist.

Polo Herringbone Cotton Cargo Pant...$114.99

I tried these on in the mall the other day and I promise you that they are badass.  I realize they are a little intense, but if you like archival stuff these are for you.  Click the link to see a bunch more views and all the crazy pockets these have to offer.  The fabric is a heavy weight and the fit is trim, so for under $150 these are a great bargain and my favorite of the bunch.

Regular Fit Vintage Cargo Pant...$59.50-$79.50

While this may seem like your standard cargo, J. Crew has gone with vintage and distressed cotton twill for the old school feel/look.  The fit appears pretty good and if you need a lesson in how to style your cargo pants look no further.

Dockers Cargo Pant...$98.00

Dockers is getting slept on by a lot of people and it really is a shame.  They have some good offerings out right now, and if what I've been hearing is correct, they have some curveballs coming up that are going to catch a lot of people by surprise.  I particularly like the slim side pockets on these cargos and the box stitching on the front is a cool detail I haven't really seen elsewhere.  These are probably cut the fullest of all the featured pants, so I would recommend trying these on before pulling the trigger.

-L.A.S

Reinventing The Wheel: J. Crew's Sun-Washed Flannel

The holiday selection at J. Crew has hit stores and the web and while it's pretty much what we've all come to expect, there is one stroke of, dare I say, genius.  Despite the recent success of J. Crew and their ability to offer classic Americana at an affordable price, they have yet to do anything original of note...at least until now.

There are tons of flannels on the market, but none quite as unique as the new J. Crew sun-washed models.  This twist on the classic cold weather shirt is something I have yet to see from any other brand and they look fantastic in person (I can also vouch for fit).  Still defined by their thick fabric, but lightened just enough to set them apart from the playing field these are the coolest flannels I have seen this season.  Unlike your typical flannel, the inherent utility of these shirts (it's ability to warm) forms an intriguing combination with the washed-out (shout out to Paul) warmness of the colors.  Instead of dropping 2 bills on something from Woolrich Woolen Mills, I'd much rather get three of these.  Snag 'em here for $69.50.

-L.A.S

Fall Looks: The Shirt Jacket

When I'm out running errands on the weekend in Charlotte's fall weather I pretty much only need one serious layer of outerwear.  A down vest or a sweatshirt is typically enough to keep me feeling just right as I head out to Target, Harris Teeter or where ever. While layering up is always clutch, it's often not completely necessary, especially if you live where the climate is decidedly moderate.  With all that being said, my current weekend getup of a basic tee, APC's and one aforementioned top layer could use a breath of fresh air.  The shirt jacket is something that could help take some pressure off my, and your, other outerwear.

For those of you who live in much colder areas, the shirt jacket can be just as useful.  When things get real cold outside and your peacoat just isn't doing it, the shirt jacket can be a seriously warm middle layer.  Odds are its plaid print will stand out against your dark outerwear (much like a plaid scarf), so it'll look pretty good as it gets the job done.

Shirt jackets, or really heavy shirts (often lined) that can function as a lightweight jacket, are pretty easy to find from most of the usual suspects.  No matter what you're into you can easily find a shirt jacket that syncs up with your current wardrobe (I'll be the first to admit that red and black buffalo check is not my thing).  Most are made of a heavy duty fabric, such as wool, and will often come with a unremovable liner.  The extra fabric adds warmth, no doubt, but this comes at a price.  Most shirt jackets are going to run you in the $100 and up range, but when you consider how it can replace a $300 jacket, it pales in comparison.  Here are some options to considering adding to the weekend rotation...

L.L Bean Washable Wool Jac-Shirt...$59.00

L.L. Bean Lined Allagash Shirt-Jac Buffalo Plaid...$89.00

Filson Jac Shirt...$155.00

J. Crew Buffalo Check Shirt Jacket...$98.00

Woolrich Woolen Mills Ranger Shirt Hombre Wool...$225.00

Penfield Meeker...$106.00

Pendleton Westwood Shirt Jac...$158.00

 
-L.A.S

Watch Men

[Pictured: American Field Watches circa World Wars I & II.]

Originating in the 1880's, the field watch gained steam as the prevalent time piece during the first World War due to soldier's demands for reliable and portable time devices.   These accurate, shock resistant watches, much like army fatigues, grew to represent American no frills, utilitarian design.  The technological advancements of WWII also extended to the watches.  With solid forged steel cases and thick, strong straps, the watches were more battle ready than ever.

The field watch saw a resurgence in the 1970's as the populatity of outdoors sports increased.  Suddenly there was once again a demand for a less expensive, rugged watch that, above all else, was readable and reliable.  By the 1980's the field watch was so popular that it had earned the reputation as the "blue-jeans" of timepieces.*

The field watch has recently been experiencing a similar resurgance to that of the 1970's/80's as it finds itself very much at the center of the menswear heritage/workwear movement.  Guys who would typically pass over such a watch in favor of something more intricate and expensive are drawn to the field watch's simple aesthetics and rich history.  Outdoors companies like L.L. Bean and Orvis are offering the same field watches they have for years, while brands like Timex (in a "collaboration" with J. Crew) are re-releasing models from their past. 

If you're in the market for a cool, new watch and don't want to spend north of a king's ransom look into a field watch.  I recommend going the vintage route by picking up one of the hundreds available on eBay.  You can find plenty of working watches (sans band if you like) at a bargain of the new asking price.  Thanks to a tip from Nick, I am currently trying to secure a vintage L.L. Bean field watch as we speak (you're crazy if you think I'm going to link it up here, though hopefully I can post on it when I win the auction).  If you're worried a vintage option is too much of a risk, try any one of the new varieties posted below. 

I'm really into black face (wow, this can definitely be taken out of context) watches in general, so that's what I would recommend as far as faces are concerned.  Otherwise, there's not much else going on outside of the band you choose.  The field watch is a complete "less is more" piece and that's the way a watch should be.  No matter if it's a field watch or a Cartier tank watch, the simpler the better.  On the matter of bands, most of these allow you to switch in and out the band of your choosing.  Grosgrain seems to be what's trending right now so either head down that route, or go in the opposite direction.  For someone looking to break new ground, try a simple cotton (waxed even) band or some type of nylon (braided possibly) to keep with the understated theme of the watch's face.  Or you could just say "screw it" and throw on a vintage leather band.  I can't imagine anything cooler right now than a "blacked-out" field watch.  Who watches the watch men? I do, that's who...

L.L. Bean Classic Field Watch...$89

Orvis Briar Haven Field Watch...$69

Timex Expedition Retro Metal Field Watch...$39.59

J. Crew x Timex Military Watch...$150.00

Hamilton Men's Khaki Field Watch...$116.99

 

-L.A.S

*Field watch lead in pictures and history paraphrased and sourced from here.

Lusting After: Mister Freedom x J. Crew

[Pictured: Mister Freedom x J. Crew off duty workshirt.  All pictures courtesy of J. Crew.  Available online for $239.95.]

This collaboration between Mister Freedom and J. Crew has been available for a while, but the release of a new "rustic blue" (i.e. chambray) colorway has forced my hand.  While it's hard justifying spending $200, let along $240, on a shirt (especially a workshirt) this may be the exception to the rule.  Foolishly left off of my fall wishlist, this may be the coolest shirt out right now (apologies to the fine garments available from Hamilton 1883).  The details are absurdly good and most definetely authentic considering Mister Freedom's reputation as the archival master.  While the new rustic blue version is awesome, this "collection special item" (What?  Seriously, who is proofreading over at J. Crew?) off-white is a must buy.  According to those in the know over at J. Crew the shirt is extremely snug and they recommend ordering a size up if you are looking for that relaxed feel from your off duty workshirt.  Once again, this price is steep, but for a shirt that looks amazing enough to wear everyday it may just be worth it.  If the devil is in the details, call me a satanist...

-L.A.S

Fall Looks: Update Your Gray Sweatshirt

It's difficult to find clothing more iconic than the gray sweatshirt.  It is a fall staple and should be in every guy's closet.  There are no shortage of options out there and I won't bore you by linking up to any number of them.  Instead, I thought I'd highlight a pretty cool alternative that, while not replacing your gray sweatshirt, can serve as cool alternative: The shawl collar sweatshirt.

J. Crew's fleece shawl-collar sweatshirt is a stylish bargain at $55 and can instantly update your sweatshirt collection.  Available in that classic heather gray or a black that resembles more of a dark charcoal, shawl collar sweatshirt serves as this interesting meeting point between the classic crewneck sweatshirt and the shall collar (most commonly seen on tuxedo jackets and cardigans).  I tried this on a while back when the J. Crew by me was stocking their fall inventory, and I'll be damned if this isn't one of the most comfortable things I've tried on in a while.

J. Crew Fleece Shawl-Collar Sweatshirt...$55 

Check out the versions below from Steven Alan and Ralph Lauren for guys with extra deep pockets.

Steven Alan Shawl Collar Sweatshirt...$198

Polo Ralph Lauren Fleece Shawl Collar Pullover...$145

If you're running out to walk the dog, throw this on and maybe top it off with a down vest or pair it with your best denim and a shirt and tie for a night out of casual drinking.  The key with all of these is that they are made of fleece which translates to insane comfort and an outward relaxed look (the same shawl collar design in wool loses lots of that understated charm associated with the fleece).  Ain't nothing wrong with the classics.  Ain't nothing wrong with switching 'em up either.

-L.A.S

Toggle Fever > Swine Flu

[Pictured: Company of We Moses Toggle Coat...$325]

Everyone, including Sartorially Inclined, is endorsing Duffle coats (or toggle coats) this fall.  Valet. Mag just did a great piece on them in their Fall Buying Guide '09 entitled "The Classic" so check it out for a neat primer on the must have coat for fall. 

These British coats trace their history back to WWI, where they were worn by the British Royal Navy and have since become synomous with American preppy/nautical style.  There are a ton of options/variations out there so browse around (def. check eBay) for a style and color that suits your fall look.  My personal favorite (see above) is the offering from Company of We. It comes in a great naval colorway with white roping fasteners, a beautifully designed collar and cool leather details.

Since moving to the south my need for such a heavy wool coat has diminished, but if I was anywhere above the Mason-Dixon line you'd bet your ass I would be purchasing one of these as we speak. Thanks to J. Crew I can still get my duffle fix thanks to their awesome toggle hoodie.  The hoodie is a fall standard much like the duffle coat, so this is a great hybrid take on two classics.  J. Crew's offering is made of superfine wool, so it should be good for those chilly days and nights, even down here in Charlotte.  It is a little pricey, but for those of us who don't need to buy a new coat, this is a reasonable alternative.  Swine Flu, eat your heart out, I've got toggle fever...

[Pictured: J. Crew Wool Toggle Hoodie...$188]

-L.A.S

The Khaki Shirt

Flannel, chambray and denim workshirts are everywhere this fall and that's not such a bad thing.  Most stylish guys are going to have these shirts/fabrics in heavy rotaion, but there are other options out there.  Recently I've been seeing the khaki, or chino, shirt featured as a cool alternative to the previously mentioned, slightly over-exposed get-ups.  Taking its que more so from militray references, than classic workwear, the khaki shirt is a super clean option as far as fall shirts are concerned.  Lots of brands are ditching epaulets (those often non-functional, button-down shoulder straps) to create a simpler, stream-lined shirt that doesn't overtly announce its history, yet retains it's heritage.  I've compiled options from all the mainstream players so that the price points stay on the low side, but keep in mind that this could mean we have a trend on our hands...

I present to you Sartorially Inclined's Khaki Shirt Primer:

The Gap...$44.50

Head designer Patrick Robinson keeps things casual, classic and most of all, wonderful yet again.  This guy really knows what he is doing and this khaki shirt from the American institution known as The Gap is another affordable classic piece (they keep churning 'em out these days).  Definitely the most casual of the bunch, this shirt would look great thrown on wrinkled, much like your pinpoint oxford.  Leave the tie at home, untuck and maybe even unbutton (undershirts required).

Banana Republic...$79.50

The more expensive older brother of The Gap is getting in on the action as well with a crisper, more dressy option.  The shirt appears to have a higher level of detailing (red thread on the top button), as well, which is always nice when attempting to justify price.  I like this shirt as a dressier option, i.e. tucked in with a rep or knit tie.  I can see this shirt being much more of an iron before you go out as oppose to a tumble dry.  Just keep in mind that when it comes to Banana, price doesn't really reflect quality...

J. Crew...$69.50

The champions of mainstream heritage return with their take on the classic.  Seemingly bucking the khaki color, they instead offer their chino shirt in both a fall friendly gray and bisque (their fancy way of saying "whtie").  If you already own a grey chambray or denim shirt, I would skip this option since unless you plan on being fondled (and you just may) not many people will be able to tell the difference.  On the other hand, if the khaki color is not your speed, this might serve as a great compromise.

There are lots of great options out there so don't feel like you need to wear flannel, chambray or otherwise.  As long as you stay informed there is never a need or reason to be trendy or fashionable...find a shirt that looks great, fits great and, most of all, feels great...I imagine you're likely to find a khaki shirt that is all three...

-L.A.S