Gant By Michael Bastian F/W 2011

Ok-k-kay, I'm back from Las Vegas and as Terrance would say, "I'm here now. Pardon my lateness."  As I have previously mentioned on Twitter, Gant by Michael Bastian F/W 2011 was one of the few "fashion" things going on during NYFW that I not only had an interest in, but was really looking forward to.  The presentation was very well done and absolutely packed with all the names and faces Tumblr kids absolutely lose their shit over. So, yeah, I was happy that I got to experience the collection in an atmosphere that was buzzing and probably on some fire marshal's radar.  Now, onto the clothes.  I knew beforehand that the vibe was going to be Bastian's version of Americana, but seen through a European lens - a Scandinavian one, to be specific, thanks to Team MB's constant jaunts to Gant's Stockholm headquarters.  What they set out to accomplish they definitely succeeded in doing and any recap that you happen to read is going to say just that.  The whole L.L. Bean by way of Sweden vibe speaks to Bastian and co.'s ability to synthesize various ideas in a way that fits in with what his customer, the constantly referenced "Michael Bastian guy", has come to expect and appreciate.  A collection firmly rooted in two very distinct styles shouldn't work and shouldn't work well, but I guess that is what separates Bastian from the countless other designers working today who lots of us menswear nerds casually dismiss.  As in each successive season (in both his Gant and namesake line) Michael has built upon his version of American sportwear, while continuing to push the envelope into ambitious territory at the same time.  For me, F/W 2011 was great because it was a little rougher around the edges than his past two Gant collections - a little more unpolished and I mean that in the best way possible.  Both Bastian and Christopher Bastin, the designer of Gant Rugger, have mentioned gang imagery as reference points recently and I think some of that comes across here.  No one will deny that the styling was bold, busy and bombastic, a Bastian signature, but looking at the individual pieces on their own reveals a F/W 2011 collection that is extremely wearable, well made and damn stylish.  At a very pivotal time in his career Michael was able to deliver his most ambitious collection for Gant yet and prove that betting against him, quite simply, is a foolish endeavor.

-L.A.S

Ascot Chang F/W 2011

Amidst the clutter of New York Fashion Week shit I couldn't care less about there are a few menswear gems worth talking about.  Ascot Chang is one of those gems.  Known primarily as one of the finest tailors in all of Asia, Ascot Chang has been running their bespoke business since 1953 and proving that "Made in China", or "Made in Hong Kong" in this case, is not the stigma everyone preaches.  The purpose of their F/W 2011 presentation was to showcase some of the new shirting and suiting they designed for the upcoming season.  Styled by Michael Macko, who you might know as Valet's Editor at Large, F/W 2011 has two "stories" - an officer and a gentleman.  I'd personally categorize it as Italian-esque alpine sportswear, if that makes any sense.  Anyhow, the shirting fabric is primarily from Thomas Mason and the suiting was primarily Loro Piana.  There were many highlights as you can see below, but for my money the cargo trousers and subtle camouflage pattern shirt were the best of the bunch.  This won't be the last time you read about Ascot Chang on Sart Inc as I was lucky enough to get fitted for a custom shirt, which I plan on reviewing, naturally, when it is complete.  A big thanks goes out to Michael Macko, Justin Chang and Thomas Yu for being such gracious hosts and doing exciting stuff during a week when I'm generally a negative nancy.

-L.A.S

Attn: Steven Alan For Dockers Ranger Cargo Pants On Sale

Back in September I highlighted this pants from the Steven Alan for Dockers capsule collection and even argued for the case that they would sell out at light speed.  Well, as many of you are pretty accustomed to by this point, I was wrong.  But, that's kind of a good thing in this case because now they are on sale over at Steven's site.  Surprisingly there is a decent grip of sizes available - if you're a 32 or 33, sorry.  $89 for pants that used to be $128 ($148?) is a pretty good deal especially considering this elusive type of "big boy cargo pants", as a friend calls them.  The Ranger Cargo was the slimmest pant offered in the capsule collection and the fit is similar as Steven's mainline Naval pant for those of you keeping score at home.  I doubt these are warm enough for February on the east coast, but they will make a great pant as winter transitions into spring and for fall.

-L.A.S

Mark McNairy by Spiewak F/W 2011

Mark McNairy's collaboration with American outerwear juggernaut Spiewak wasn't just a one off for S/S 2011.  No, he's back at it for F/W 2011 and recreating Spiewak's classic snorkel parka in his own image.  When he told me he was going to do a lookbook featuring only women I was intrigued to say the least.  While these jackets are pretty much unisex, I think we can call agree that they look much better on pretty girls.  But then again, you can say that about anything, I guess.  Whoever did the casting on this one deserves a Nobel prize. For more information on Mark McNairy by Spiewak check out this interview Mark did for Spiewak's website.

All photos by Lee Clower.

-L.A.S

The Nominees: Patrick Grant

Patrick Grant didn't win the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund, but here is a video Vogue.com released with their only menswear nominee.  As seen over at Die, Workwear!, which is a fantastic blog you should be reading.



-L.A.S

First Look: Mark McNairy San Salvador

When Mr. McNairy was visiting El Salvador he discovered a style of boot he had never seen before.  The Burro boot is the official shoe of El Salvador's working class and the signature style produced by Empresas ADOC, Central America's largest family owned manufacturer.  ADOC provides all of its workers with a pair - the cost of which is equivalent to one day's pay.  Known for their tough and rugged nature, the Burro boot has been worn through revolutions and is symbolic of El Salvador's everyman.  Wanting to bring this iconic shoe outside of Central America for the first time, Mark is launching his San Salvador collection.  Mark's version, made by ADOC, keeps the classic silhouette and thick vulcanized rubber sole, but features new eyelets and rich suede uppers.  The plan is to eventually build the San Salvador collection to include more authentic El Salvadorian footwear such as roper boots on a similar rubber sole.  McNairy's Burro boot will be available in stores soon and should retail for around $125.

-L.A.S