Sartorially Inclined

Shopping Florence, Or Firenze If You’re Bourgeois

2012-01-19T11:10:00.003-05:00

Right, right, so nothing has really happened on here in what most people on and off the Internet would consider "a long ass time". I've got no excuses other than I have been equal parts busy and lazy. How's that for some truth? I try to keep things honest over here at the very least. If you haven't already figured it out, my daily blogging has migrated over to Tumblr for the most part. The insights aren't long form by any stretch of the imagination, but if you're one of the three or so people not my mother crying over the death of LAS at least you can soak those tears up with some cashmere socks or whatever. So what can you find on my Tumblr? Crazy awesome fan mail from 81 year old guys in New Mexico who read about me in The New York Times who also have serious bones to pick! Crispy McBacons in Florence! Finding an original Polo RL Snow Beach pullover at this week's (capsule) NY! Oh man, I've got kinda maybe sorta interesting shit like that for days yo. On to the matter at hand. I was in Florence for Pitti Uomo 81 and it was off the chain. Here is a blog post about shopping:

Obviously we couldn’t get to everything, but we did make our rounds. Some spots were highly recommended, others legendary and some merely stumbled into thanks to some intrepid exploring. There are a ton of price points represented here so if you find yourself lucky enough to be strolling around Florence you may or may not want to consult this list.

Keep in mind the following prices were converted from Euro to USD and many were sales. The thing about shopping in Italy, and really Europe for that matter, is that if you are lucky to be traveling towards the end of the season everywhere you go has blowout sales ranging from 30% - 70% off. It’s WAY more prominent than here in America.

Frasi ($$$$) - Formerly known as Tie Your Tie, Frasi is the legendary Florentine shop owned by the equally legendary Simone Righi. As the four dollar signs indicate, this shop is for the wealthy - when we first walked in two extremely stylish Japanese men were in the middle of possibly the most expensive personal shopping appointment I have ever witnessed complete with their own Italian translator. As far as the vibe and style goes, imagine the most incredible Italian menswear pictures we’ve all salivate over on Tumblr and multiply that by around, I don’t know, 100. The place is very intimate (a plus) and Simone, who doesn’t speak any English (thankfully he his assistant does), is the definition of polite and accommodating whether you are shopping or merely browsing.

Milord ($$$) - Milord was recommended to us by a good friend in the clothing business who has pretty stellar taste so it should come as no surprise that it was solid from front to back. And we could actually afford some shit! They stock lots of great brands, some of which are available in The States, but usually in very small runs or not at all - think Boglioli, LBM 1911, Roda, Rota, PT-01, Santoni, etc. The in house brand is nothing to scoff at either. The private label sportcoats were pretty obviously manufactured by Lubiam, but they did feature exclusive fabrics. I ended up grabbing a Roda blousan that was on sale for just over $300 USD as it was not available in the US as far as I know. For those keeping score at home, I allotted myself one “big” purchase while in Florence.

Boggi ($$) -“It’s the Brooks Brothers of Italy”, our buddy said and it made perfect sense - an entire brand of classic menswear with reasonable pricing. Of course classic Italian menswear couldn’t be any more different from classic American menswear so that’s about where the comparison ends. Anyhow, the entire selection was wearable with highlights in outerwear, footwear and shirting. For those of you who love slimmer fitting sport pants (5 pocket cords, washed denim, etc.) look no further. I should also mention that Boggi is not specific for Florence. They have stores all over Italy, Greece and the Middle East so be on the lookout depending on where you’re traveling abroad.

Gutteridge ($) - We stumbled into this spot on the very first day we were in Florence and were completely blown away. Similar to Boggi, Gutteridge was packed to the brim with solid menswear. I thought the quality wasn’t exactly on par with Boggi, but the aesthetics were just as on point. Then again, when you start getting into these lower pricepoints the dip in quality is to be expected. The best deals were cutaway collar shirts for $30 dollars and the perfect casual cotton sportcoat (patch pockets, 2 buttons, high gorge, side vents, working cuffs) in a full range of colors for $140.

Peluso ($) - You already know I saved the best for last. Peluso is a men’s and women’s shoe brand who also manufacturers made in Italy shoes for some high end brands/shops. Anyhow, here is what you need to know - made in Italy shoes in classic menswear styles for dirt cheap. I’m talking chocolate suede penny loafers for $49 USD (boom, snagged), blue suede Chelsea boots for $70 USD (boom x 2, snagged) and calfskin shortwings for $91. Peluso’s soles do leave a little to be desired however. While there are full leather soles, most shoes are on some type of rubber (knock-off Dainite, faux crepe, etc.) or rubber and leather mixture (probably the best of the bunch and definitely the most comfortable. The uppers, on the other hand, actually surpass the pricepoint, which is something that I am still trying to wrap my head around. Do they have own their own tannery? Secret Illuminati connections? Mafia shit ala Gomorrah? To be honest, I really don’t care when the customer is benefiting this much. There are a bunch of Peluso shops around Florence, many only selling women’s shoes or a small selection of men’s so you want to hit up the main Peluso store on Via del Corso. "Too good to be true" is an understatement.

Final thoughts - My friend JD was once talking about Pitti and made the statement, and I’m paraphrasing here, “The great thing about Florence and Italy in general, is that you can get the entire 'look' at EVERY pricepoint”. After shopping the city for about a week I couldn’t agree more and we only saw around 40% of the menswear stores you’d want to shop at. The taste level here in the US is light years behind many countries abroad and it’s a shame. We, the customers, are the ones that suffer. We’re forced to lust after amazing clothes that we either can’t get or can’t afford. That’s not the case in Europe, especially not in Italy. So what can we do to rectify this? We need to educate ourselves and push our boundaries, both stylistically and otherwise. By doing something about this taste gap we can begin to close it.

I should also mention that we checked out a few other stores on our trip. Shops like Happy Jack, WP Lavori, Massimo Dutti, Luisa Via Roma and more. They all had something special or unique to offer, but I didn’t feel like I spent enough time there or made a purchase that warranted a comment. Hopefully I can get back here soon to expand this “guide”.

-L.A.S

Boglioli S/S 2012

2011-11-07T09:56:00.001-05:00

Of all the brands to have exploded thanks to the Internet's relatively recent obsession with Italian tailoring, Boglioli is my personal favorite. Obviously, I am incredibly biased - it fits me better off the rack than anything, it's the exact laid back elegance I look for in tailored clothing, so on and so forth. You may agree with me or you may not. That's not really the point of all this. Boglioli's S/S 2012 collection recently got some visuals and I think it serves to teach us some important lessons. First of which is, even if you love a brand to death, don't always look to them on how to style their products. I'm not saying you guys are slaves to lookbooks or any shit like that, just a friendly reminder, you know? I think Boglioli's S/S 2012 styling is cool, but I'm a little hesitant on how some of this would translate in real life. We are nowhere near Piombo territory, but something to think about. Next, if you are still unconvinced of how unconstructed/unstructured sportcoats can change your life, look no further. Seriously, do these jackets look like they can be any more comfortable? I understand those of you who want something a little more jacked up for cold weather (that whole romantic idea of you clothing being personal armor), but when the weather is warmer you cannot do any better than this stuff as far as I am concerned. Finally, I actually think we can take a queue from the styling. I mean, keep in mind what I said before, but offset it a little with this point - S/S layering is possible. Meaning, just because it is hot as hell doesn't mean you can't experiment with layers. But, the right layers of course. Many Italian brands, especially the superior ones like Boglioli, have such an understanding of things like fabrication, texture, fit and drape that they really do enable, and encourage, the sometimes foolish/ballsy idea of layering during S/S. Think about it. If you take away anything from the above nonsense, let it be - Boglioli makes jackets so good they'll make you wanna slap ya momma.

-L.A.S

Run Of The Mill F/W 2011 Has Landed

2011-10-26T11:36:00.003-04:00

My two buddies and I are back at it for F/W 2011. Our own little Run of the Mill has expanded its offerings for the season with 4 new shirts and 4 new shoes (our fan favorite cutaway collar oxfords will be back up for sale later in the day). Since day one it's been about offering the stuff we love and wear at a great value to our customers. While manufacturing has stayed consistent (shirts made in the USA, shoes made in Italy), we tried to push the envelope. The fabrics sourced for a few of the shirts are on another level - we're talking Albini and Albiati, which are two of Italy's most renowned mills, for those of you who care about this sort of thing. We also updated our cutaway collar. The new collar has a slightly wider spread and longer collar points adding up to the best cutaway we've had the pleaseure of offering. Shoes are still coming out of one of Northern Italy's best ready to wear factories and F/W 2011's program features beautiful shades of suede and one double monk stomper that is snow ready, seriously. All our product is still on a made to order basis and the new stuff will be up for about a month long window starting today. Hopefully those of you who are interested will head on over and do a little browsing. Maybe you'll even do a little buying. Regardless, I'd like to thank everyone who supports my endeavors and me for helping make special things like this possible. Feel free to email me with any questions/concerns/inquiries/slander.

-L.A.S

Unis F/W 2011

2011-10-21T10:45:00.002-04:00

When I visited Eunice Lee a little while back at her Elizabeth St. shop we talked about starting over. Not from scratch or anything too drastic, but revisiting the things that made her brand, Unis, amazing in the first place - shoring up the foundation if you will. Fans of Unis have nothing to worry about and those looking to explore her clothing for the first time have a lot to look forward to, starting with what helped her stake her claim in menswear in the first place. Most people have probably heard about Unis thanks to her bottoms, specifically the Gio, which was easily one of the top 5 chinos on the market. You may remember how she "famously" (I only put that in quotes because I know not everyone is on the internet as much as I am) defended her price points to blog commenters. For F/W 2011 the Gio got a little bit of a facelift. There are now two completely re-engineered Gio's - a standard and a "skinny". Yeah, you just read the word "skinny" on a menswear blog. Did you blackout? Are you okay? Moving on, having two fits hopes to alleviate any discrepancies that may have existed before and satisfy as many people looking for chinos as possible. Personally, I prefer and wear the Gio Skinny - word is bond. Others may prefer the Gio. Regardless, they are the best pair of chinos that I have owned since Hickey closed its doors. The Italian cotton used is hearty enough for cold weather wear, but has a luxuriousness to it. The whole point of these pants is to offer a tailored silhouette, much like a trouser, but in the washed comfort of your traditional chino. The emerald and ox blood colorways are the definitive choices for those of you looking to wear not just color, but the right color for this time of year. Eunice didn't stop with her bottoms either. No, there is a lot more great stuff happening for F/W 2011. She's offering USA made suiting for the first time at an affordable price point compared to her competitors. It's a casual take on the new buttoned up aesthetic engulfing menswear, while not sacrificing an iota of quality. For the guy looking to grab himself a sportcoat, but isn't drinking any of that Neapolitan kool aid, look no further. I should also mention the new outerwear made in conjunction with San Francisco's Golden Bear. Simply put, it's murderous. Long story short, swing by Unis if you live in NYC or browse the site if you live on the internet. Either way I think you are going to find some great stuff that's going to help you shore up your own foundation for F/W 2011.

[All pictures courtesy of Justin Chung.]

-L.A.S

Ovadia & Sons F/W 2011 Campaign B-Roll

2011-10-13T15:11:00.003-04:00

A little while back I had the pleasure of working with a bunch of talented folks/friends in producing the Ovadia & Sons F/W 2011 campaign. Justin took so many great images that we didn't end up using that I figured it would make sense to drop a selection of them somewhere. I guess that's what a blog is for, right? Anyhow, I hope you guys enjoy some of these outtakes. Not all of them are meant to be taken seriously (though that fur stole is absolutely, undeniably ill), but they do tell another story that I think ultimately compliments the official campaign images. Also, if this is your first time seeing Ovadia & Sons F/W 2011 then I am happy to bring you up to speed on the best new line of menswear coming out of America.

-L.A.S

Blind Barber: A Review

2011-09-28T10:34:00.004-04:00

First off, apologies for my absence. I just started a new job and have a lot of stuff going on so it has been difficult to find the time to hash out quasi-quality stuff over here. Anyhow, as always, you can follow my daily nonsense (mostly, sorta, kinda about clothing) over at my Tumblr. Moving on...

When I was younger I was intense about my haircuts to the point where a bad haircut seriously fucked up my chi for, like, a week, easily. Somewhere along the line (see: various collegiate hazing practices) I got over all that nonsense and usually went with options that were either convenient, cheap or some combination of the two. Yesterday I swung by Blind Barber in NYC for my first “real” haircut in a long time. You may have already heard about BB thanks to their pretty stellar run of recent press (Details, New York Times, a bunch of menswear bloggers/vloggers/joggers/loggers/etc). So yeah, long story not so short at this point, but I got probably the best haircut of my life. See, that’s the thing, I forgot about quality barbershops and barbers - they actually give a shit about how your hair is going to look. Melissa, the wonderful woman who cut my golden locks and pictured below, paid attention to how my hair grows, it’s natural direction and all the factors most people don’t think twice about. They also give you a complimentary drink, which is better than not getting a drink in case you weren’t aware. Check out the website, call them up and make an appointment. If you’re not satisfied (most likely an impossible scenario) holler at me and I will come to your place of residence with clippers and give you a little perspective.

Cliff notes: Before my cut babies would take one look at my dome piece and start crying. Since my haircut I have been getting daps from babies all over the city. All baby daps are courtesy of Blind Barber.

Shout outs: Melissa, JB (she took all the pics), Trunzo, Eric, Matt

-L.A.S

First Look: Ian Velardi F/W 2011

2011-08-29T11:22:00.003-04:00

I haven't known Ian or his namesake collection for long, but that hasn't stopped me from going on record and singing his praises. As it stands today, Mr. Velardi is one of my favorite American designers. You might not explicitly know Ian Velardi, but you're probably already a fan of his work. Previously, Ian was part of the Hickey brain trust, who along with Aaron Levine (another Sart Inc favorite and currently at Club Monaco) designed some incredible clothes that were arguably ahead of their time. I truly believe that if Hickey had come out just a year or so later it would still be around today, but that's a different story for a different time. Anyhow, Ian is only in his second season (F/W 2011 and S/S 2012), but is already on the radar of people whose taste I respect - you'll be able to find his stuff in Barneys and Park & Bond any day now. Ian's collection actually reminds me a lot of when Michael Bastian first started his namesake line. Not so much in terms of aesthetics per se, but both gentleman are doing similar things. They took impressive menswear pedigrees and turned their talents to creating classic sportswear that sets itself apart thanks to an understanding of fabric, fit and details. The end result is a collection that when looked at as a whole represents a solid wardrobe for the style conscious guy. The only down side to this, as far as I see it, is that getting hands on with clothing like this is truly the best way to experience it. See, that's often the conundrum that great sportwear faces. To the untrained eye and in pictures it often appears basic. But then, again, that's what men should be aiming for. You shouldn't want to stand out. You want beautifully made clothes that fit properly. That's what Ian is doing. Everything is Italian made (some of your favorite players are involved in the manufacturing process, especially with the sportcoats and trousers) save for some accessories so there is inherent value in each garment. S/S 2012 images on deck...GQ has the exclusive on that.

-L.A.S

Piombo's World

2011-08-09T16:25:00.002-04:00

Most people are familiar with Piombo for their beautiful sportcoats that often grace the backs of street snapped men's editors. This is a fine reputation for sure, but Piombo is much, much more. In fact, Massimo Piombo has created one of the most fascinating and enthralling Italian brands in recent memory. That may seem like high praise for clothing, but when taking in the Piombo brand as a whole you get a much better idea of what I'm talking about. Take, for example, the F/W 2011 advertising campaign, shot by Oliver Zahm, featuring Maxwell Snow (Dash Snow's brother) and Leah De Wavrin. Fascinating is probably the best way to describe something like this. Or maybe Italian pimp shit is better. Regardless, I'm impressed, that's for sure. I love how Piombo can make beautiful pieces of clothing that speak to quality and style on their own, but when viewed as a collection through Piombo's lens, it takes on a new significance (I have juxtaposed these images below to help prove my point). Similarly, Piombo's F/W 2011 lookbook creates a feeling of Italian luxury that is equal parts brooding, engaging and wholly unique. Piombo's relaunched website is titled "Piombo World". That might seem kitschy or lame to some, but I think that perfectly encapsulates what Piombo is all about. The clothes exist in their own twisted world that presents Italian style in an exciting and refreshing way. Don't get me wrong, I love the classics as much as the next blogger, but it never hurts to push the envelope. And push it the right way while you're at it.

-L.A.S

Credit Where Credit Is Due

2011-08-05T12:09:00.000-04:00

If you pay close attention to any of this menswear shit you will know that Barneys has been getting glowing reviews as of late (I'm looking at you Michael) mainly due to that fact that they are going to start carrying some of the most sought after, but hard to find brands this wide ol' world has to offer - Piombo, Ovadia & Sons, Salvatore Piccolo, Ami, Camoshita, Salvatore Piccolo, Slowear, etc. Barneys' The Window (I'm not sure if I would call this a blog) recently interviewed CEO Mark Lee about S/S 2012 and he gives a little insight into the department store's mindset when it comes to menswear. More importantly, however, is that my buddy Justin Doss gets shouted out. Yeah, it happens to be in reference to his status as a street style all-star, but I just wanted people to know that Barneys' sportswear resurgence is thanks to this guy. I do not know anyone who has better taste than Justin and it shows in all the new and exciting brands he's bringing to Madison Ave. and online.

-L.A.S

L.B.M. 1911 F/W 2011: The Campaign

2011-08-04T16:54:00.003-04:00

As with any of the L.B.M. 1911 campaigns I've seen up until now things are a bit, let's just say, styled. But that's the point. None of use are ever going to wear L.B.M. 1911 head to toe. This is just a look into a crazy world where sporting types (read: rich dudes with a lot of time on their hands) ball out (no pun intended) in all Lubiam everything. The images are supposed to tell a story, inform a collection's theme, so on and so forth. To each his own, right? Moral of the story - L.B.M. 1911 is doing it right and doing it well. Hopefully between the campaign and the actual jackets themselves you've found something to either purchase or mine for inspiration.

-L.A.S

L.B.M. F/W 2011: The Jackets

2011-08-01T17:18:00.000-04:00

Back in March I gave you guys the first look at some F/W 2011 looks from L.B.M. 1911 - one of the most buzzworthy (no Pitchfork) and rising names in menswear right now. The styling was bold to the point where some of the individual pieces might have been overlooked. But fear not, my lovely blog reader, as I can finally share with you guys the bread and butter of not only the F/W 2011 collection, but the line itself. The jackets really do speak for themselves. And we're talking volumes. Both the sportcoats and outerwear fall somewhere near perfect - custom fabrics, unconstructed, great styling, etc. It's more or less internet menswear's wet dream. Take these in. Study them. Love them. Campaign images coming once it's all digested. If I've learned anything from my year's on Earth, it's that you gotta pace yourself.

-L.A.S

Ovadia & Sons S/S 2012

2011-07-25T01:33:00.003-04:00

Asking brothers Shimon and Ariel what their inspiration is pretty much tells you all you need to know about Ovadia & Sons. Instead of giving you some fantastical line of bullshit they'll laugh and simply tell you that their clothing is, well, just clothing. It's what they like. It's what they wear. It's menswear - plain and simple. These guys, who I am proud to call my friends, haven't been doing O&S for all that long, but you would never know by looking at their garments. Building a brand, especially one that exists within such a traditional menswear paradigm, is not easy and both Shimon and Ariel will be the first to admit it. When you put everything on the line like they have perfection often seems like the only option. And from the reaction Ovadia & Sons has been getting as of late you would think they have already achieved such lofty goals. But it's not just internet hype. No, O&S were wheeling and dealing at the most recent (capsule) NY. Some of the most respected stores in the country were not just browsing the booth, but doing their best to lock up exclusive deals. Yeah, that right there is when you know things are getting real, if you couldn't already tell by looking at the collection below.

S/S 2012 is probably the strongest I've seen from Ovadia & Sons. I've been a huge supporter since day 1, but I think this most recent collection truly represents what they're trying to do. They want to make classic clothing for a guy who appreciates classic clothing as much as they do. Not many brands are committed to creating such a thorough one stop shop for everything you could possibly need. From dinner jackets to hand embroidered knit ties - O&S has your back. One final thought, it's easy to get jaded when you look at menswear all day, every day for both work and pleasure. Every single time I step foot into the Ovadia & Sons showroom I get excited like it's my first time discovering this wonderful thing called menswear. And that's really all I have to say on the matter. Enjoy.

-L.A.S

Getting Up To Speed

2011-07-12T11:55:00.001-04:00

My apologies for being even more off the grid than usual - sorry if that comes off kinda like an absent father apologizing for missing another birthday. Besides being kinda busy, I was abroad for a little R&R and I didn't really have time for the information super highway, not that I really wanted to. Regardless, excuses are excuses. Here has been what's going.

-The Chinese Democracy of webshops (yes, shots fired at Dr. Dre) is finally online. Instead of heaping loads of praise on Sid in yet another Sart Inc post I feel it more apropos to say something about the selection of goods in this online shop. Everything here, from top to bottom, is pretty much essential to a well dressed man's wardrobe. Assuming you never needed to wear a sportcoat (which, I guess, some of you don't) everything here would create a foundation that I'm not sure any other single retail outlet can provide. Especially, when you consider there is not anything unnecessary, in terms of apparel, also up for grabs. At the end of the day, that's really the highest compliment I can pay any brand.

-I guess I now blog in a world where I am no longer the first dude you can complain to about wasting precious posts on Boglioli's newest gear.

-Right, right, so I was in Italy (not bragging, swearsies). My itinerary was fuller than the belly of a tourist drinking gypsy beers on The Spanish Steps, but I did do some sartorial things. I didn't really have time time to shop, but I did hit up Battistoni.

“Let me buy you a jacket. When we get to Rome, there’s a great place - Battistoni. Battistoni [speaking with an Italian accent].” - Dickie Greenleaf to Tom Ripley

“I’ve been watching The Talented Mr. Ripley a lot lately because I’ve been working on a spring concept called ‘Hello Ravello.’ As I walked down the Via Condotti, I heard Dickie Greenleaf’s voice in my head singing the praises of Battistoni. The 62 year old shop is tucked away through the cortile of a palazzo half way down said street. Its continued success, despite its discreet location speaks volumes about the cut and quality of their product. No doubt Dickie would still be a frequent customer.” - Kenny, who also provided the lovely image above

Kenny, being the good friend that he is, hit me with a few recs in regards to shopping Roma. Despite my schedule the one shop I was NOT going to miss was Battistoni. I mean, THE TALENTED MR. RIPLEY! DICKIE FUCKING GREENLEAF!

I walked away with a couple of beautiful silk pocket squares and could not have been more pleased with the entire experience. The staff was extremely helpful, the goods (both private label and otherwise) we’re 100% in line with my personal stylistic leanings, and despite not knowing much English a dude still went out of his way to compliment me on my dad jeans.

-And, finally, after spending time in the country most influencing menswear bloggers right now I had to comment on Hogan footwear.

While in Italy the most popular men's footwear option that I saw was Hogan footwear, aside from suede driving mocs worn without socks of course. Even though many of us are hopping on, or helping navigate, the unconstructed, cutaway collar, 2” cuff bandwagon, I still sincerely doubt we are ever going to bring these stateside. Though, I would be lying if I said I didn’t see a dude absolutely killing it in some Interactive’s paired with a kit normally reserved for double monks. Sketchers for the sprezz set? I’ll let you figure that our for yourself.

-L.A.S

First Look: L.B.M. 1911 S/S 2012

2011-06-27T11:10:00.002-04:00

I might be pushing the whole "First Look" thing since L.B.M. 1911 has been having a pretty incredible press cycle hot off the heels of their Pitti Uomo 80 coming out party, but I'm pretty sure no one has posted official images as of yet. Below are two said images from S/S 2012 - one a campaign/lifestyle shot and the other a closer look at one of S/S 2012's signature pieces. So what is next spring and summer going to be like for L.B.M. 1911? Well, it's all about the fabric. Elegance meets innovation is probably the best way to sum it up - we're talking garment dyeing and exclusive washing techniques for those of your keeping score at home. I'm personally a big fan of L.B.M. 1911's S/S washed wools, as seen on the jacket below, and having owned one for a while I can say that the fabric is extremely versatile for this time of year. I can't wait to share the entire collection with you guys when press materials are sent out sometime in September.

-L.A.S

Bob Sdrunk

2011-06-22T15:41:00.001-04:00

It's that time of year again folks. I'm talking about creepily falling in love with every single girl wearing a sundress that passes you on the street, drinking on rooftops while simultaneously not plummeting to your death and buying new sunglasses. We're all familiar with the Ray Bans and Persols of the world. You may even be familiar with the Oliver Peoples of the world. But I doubt you are familiar with Bob Sdrunk. And I only say that because no one stocks them in the United States, not because I doubt the fortitude of your sartorial scavenging skills. You're probably wondering to yourself why the hell I am featuring an accessory on here that you can't even buy. Well, first off, cool your goddman jets. Relaxed? Okay, you can buy them online. Bob Sdrunk also has a critical European cosign - they are stocked at Rose & Born. When my buddy tipped me off to them and called them "SICK" I asked him to elaborate further. "They're classic and understated. Made for the sartorially inclined." If you don't think I was sold after that then you obviously don't know how self-involved I am. On a much more serious note, check out the handmade in Italy goodness for yourself. I mean, you don't want those sundress clad honeys to know you're staring, do you?

-L.A.S

What's New With Sid?

2011-06-16T12:26:00.007-04:00

There's been a ton of recent developments for one of the best men's shops in the country. First up, let's talk about the launch of Sid Mashburn's highly anticipated webstore, which happens on June 22. Sid recently sat down with Bearings to talk a little about that (scroll down):

"Since October 2007, men have been coming to Atlanta to experience one of the country’s best haberdasheries: a highly edited collection complemented by an old-school priority on service. Starting Wednesday, June 22 gentlemen (and ladies) will have a little easier access to Sid Mashburn (and Ann Mashburn) with the launch of their e-commerce sites. We got an update from Sid on his launch and what makes him tick.

You've set a new standard in men's attire, what can we expect from your online shop?

We are really trying to re-establish some old standards that I feel have been forgotten or swept up into being "updated." We want to offer our online customer a resource that provides the best ingredients (fabrics, buttons, linings) from all over the world, the best quality – we stand behind our products 100%, and a fit that is not at all trendy but, rather, timeless & international – tailored but not skinny fit.

What types of items will be available on the site?

For men, we will be offering: dress shirts, sport shirts, trousers, denim, shorts & swim, footwear, belts & buckles and grooming tools.

When visiting your store it's clear that you've cultivated a unique experience, not just a purchasing process. How will you apply this approach online?

We're analog in our approach – we're like the liner notes on an album. Our new site will always continue to evolve with customer usage & feedback.

Your influence can be seen on the street and in other brands, what do you hope your legacy will be?

That we care about every person that crosses our paths – we put our customers first and take great care of people.

You're a man of depth and purpose; how do you find balance in life and keep everything in perspective?

My balance comes by the grace of God, a wonderful family, my wife and five girls, and a great job that doesn't at all feel like work. We are very blessed by the people that work with us and by the people that continue to come into our shops, trusting us to clothe & care for them."

You probably noticed that Sid Mashburn will not be selling tailored clothing online, which makes sense for a shop so tuned into the idea of being a destination. It is a little unfortunate because Sid's new in house suiting line sounds amazing. My buddy DC who also acts as Sart Inc’s defacto “man on the street” recently made his, what seems like, monthly trip to Sid Mashburn and hit me with some details regarding Sid’s new in house line of suiting:

“So I don’t think it will be on the site, but the Sid branded suit was starting to roll in. Apparently it's been in the works for a couple years and it’s perfect - Italian made, Loro Piana fabric, ticket-pocket, 2 button/dual vent, canvas’d, soft-shoulder and partial hand-finishing…all for $995! Yes, $995 not $1995. There were a few in stock and more coming this week…he’s doing grey and navy wool and tan and navy cotton. It’s really light-weight…even a bit more-so than my Caruso sportcoat.”

-L.A.S

Pitti Uomo 80 Day 2 Wrap Up

2011-06-15T21:52:00.004-04:00

[Picture courtesy of StreetFSN.]

-Not one, but two helpings of Tommy Ton's unparalleled Florence street style.

-StreetFSN's day two pics.

-Even Vogue Italia knows how influential Pitti's street style can be.

-Michael Williams leads a charmed and enviable life.

-Pesko's iPhone put in work.

-Woolrich Woolen Mills S/S 2012 is some of the best work of Mark McNairy's career.

-Band of Outsiders, this year's headliner, apparently put on one hell of a fashion show. There was lots of West Side Story inspired dance battling apparently. I'm not really into BoO myself, but this is significant as it was the first major S/S 2012 menswear show of the season.

-Lardini S/S 2012 looks impressive and I'm not just saying that because I like lapel flowers.

-Typical muted beauty from Mr. Cucinelli.

-Who can think about boots at a time like this? Well, Diemme I guess.

-Alice's adventures in Florence.

-Might as well close things out with another Pitti themed flickr account.

-L.A.S

Pitti Uomo 80 Day 1 Wrap Up

2011-06-15T00:14:00.004-04:00

[Picture courtesy of StreetFSN.]

-StreetFSN carries the street style torch at Pitti while we all wait with bated breath for Tommy Ton to unleash the goods.

-Incepto has shots of what appears to be some sort of State of The Union Address at Pitti and the crowd outside the show

-Men's Reverie checks out the S/S 2012 offerings from heavy hitters Boglioli (all washed everything), Barena (dad jean sportcoat!) and Pitti Uomo headliner Band of Outsiders.

-Crazy new footwear from Mark McNairy and some news about his New Amsterdam apparel relaunch.

-GQ Italy has some great coverage going on right now if you know how to work Google Translate. I particularly like this video interview with Mr. Gant Rugger himself, the big homie, Chris Bastin.

-Esquire's Style Editors do their best to predict the future.

-A flickr account devoted to the scene in and around Pitti. With all the stylish guys and new gear around I think we forget about the beautiful women who are always the true winners of best in show.

-L.A.S

[Editor's note: Shout out to R.A. who knows where all the gems are.]

Heavy News Day

2011-06-09T11:07:00.002-04:00

There's a lot going on in menswear right now. The CFDA's just wrapped up. Pitti Uomo is right around the corner. Design shakeups are going down. It's a beautiful thing, really. Odds are you don't have a subscription to WWD. That wasn't a call out, just an intelligent assumption. With that being said, here is a text heavy post featuring some interesting reading you might otherwise not get to see. No one can ever say I wasn't a man of the people.

-Club Monaco Names New Men's Design Chief

"Club Monaco has hired Aaron Levine as its new vice president of men’s design. He succeeds Timothy Farah, who left the company in March.

Levine was most recently head designer at Jack Spade. He has also been creative director at Rogues Gallery and helped launch the hickey line at Hickey Freeman. He began his career at Joseph Abboud."

-Michael Bastian, Robert Geller Aim to Build on CFDA Wins

"After five consecutive nominations, Michael Bastian won a CFDA Award on Monday — and it couldn’t have come at a better time. The designer is in the midst of relaunching his signature label after buying back his license from former partner Brunello Cucinelli in December and not producing a collection for the fall 2011 season in order to revamp the business.

“We have better pricing, with the goal of reducing prices by 10 to 20 percent across all categories and we are producing in all new factories,” said Bastian of his newly independent company. “The goal is to be more competitive at retail while keeping the quality of the product at the same level. We are about to kick off spring ’12 selling in Milan this month and my hope is that this award may help us pull in new accounts that haven’t heard of us or haven’t been paying too much attention to us.”

Ironically, Bastian’s win as Menswear Designer of the Year — edging out Simon Spurr and Patrik Ervell — comes on the heels of his skipping New York Fashion Week in February to focus on the spring relaunch. “I was never 100 percent clear how that happened. To paraphrase Sandra Bullock, maybe I wore them down,” said Bastian, who launched his own label in fall 2006 after a career that included jobs at Tiffany & Co., Polo Ralph Lauren and Bergdorf Goodman.

For this past spring, the line was sold in about 35 stores globally, including Bergdorf Goodman, Jeffrey, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s.

While not producing his own collection for fall, the designer did oversee the Gant by Michael Bastian line, now in its third season. That partnership with the Sweden-based sportswear maker has provided a key revenue stream to Bastian — allowing him to end his license arrangement with Brunello Cucinelli and move the business out of his apartment and into an office and showroom space this past December. “Gant has really been the miracle that made this all possible,” said Bastian.

The Gant by Michael Bastian range is now sold in 30 countries, including more than 100 stores in the U.S. and more than 150 stores internationally. Retailers include Barneys New York, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Ron Herman and Scoop, in addition to Gant’s own stores.

“The line has exceeded all of our expectations, with 30 to 40 percent growth in sales per season,” said Ari Hoffman, chief executive officer of Gant USA, which last month inked a new three-year contract with Bastian, with options for renewals.

In addition to the Gant partnership, Bastian is launching a co-branded line of sunglasses with Massachusetts-based Randolph Engineering, first available at retail this month.

Robert Geller, winner of the Swarovski Award for emerging talent in men’s wear said he expects a longer-term impact for his prize. “It won’t double sales in a year or anything. It just doesn’t work like that,” said Geller, who was nominated once previously for the award in 2009. “I think more stores will recognize the name and take a look at us. But it can take a season or two before stores make a commitment to take a collection in.”

Launched in fall 2007, Robert Geller is now sold in about 70 stores worldwide, including Barneys New York, Fred Segal, Blackbird and Aloha Rag. Japan is its single largest market, comprising 40 percent of sales, and the recent earthquake and tsunami disasters there took a serious toll on orders from retailers, said Geller. “I was there last week and the Japanese people are very focused on rebuilding and continuing business, but the economy has been affected,” he noted.

For fall, Geller is continuing his footwear collaboration with Common Projects, now in its third season, and will also launch a jewelry collection for spring 2012 with Brooklyn-based Scosha."

-Mens Wear Trend: Summer Youth

"In an effort to provide an integrated assortment between tailored clothing and luxury sportswear, exhibitors at the upcoming Pitti Immagine Uomo are showcasing lifestyle-focused collections with a younger appeal. Linen blazers, cotton cargoes, wrinkled chambray shirts and bleached-out denim are key elements for a casual spring offering."

-Pitti Immagine Uomo Vendors Look to New Areas to Spur Growth

"Strengthened by tailwinds from emerging markets such as China and Brazil and powered by robust performances across many categories, key European men’s wear vendors have hoisted their sails back up to precrisis levels.

Despite a rise in raw material prices and a weakened dollar, manufacturers remain upbeat, hopeful the renewed interest in luxury sales will overshadow the inevitable increase in prices.

On the eve of the showing of their spring 2012 collections at Europe’s largest men’s trade fair, Pitti Immagine Uomo, which kicks off on Tuesday, followed by the men’s wear shows in Milan and Paris, a number of brands are forecasting double-digit growth for 2011.

“The results achieved in the year of our centennial [2010], in terms of sales, margins, net financial position and capital investments, make us even stronger and more determined than we were before the economic crisis that profoundly changed the world,” said Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of Ermenegildo Zegna Group, which in the first quarter of 2011 posted growth at an average rate of over 20 percent at constant exchange rates, despite a drop in sales in Japan. The group hit the $1 billion sales mark in 2010 and more than tripled its net profit versus 2009.

Zegna said the group plans to expand its accessories offering, which currently accounts for 20 percent of sales, improve distribution of fragrances, and develop new product lines. The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. in March acquired the worldwide fragrance license of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group from L’Oréal, obtaining exclusive global rights to market fragrances under the company’s brands, as well as develop new product lines in the grooming segment.

Canali also has seen a strong double-digit increase in all categories versus spring 2010. “There is more confidence; men are back in the stores,” said Giorgio Canali, vice president of Canali USA. “Men are buying suits again, looking for updated silhouettes and styles, in shirts and ties too, to freshen up their wardrobes.”

Tom Ott, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s at Saks Fifth Avenue, said the biggest surprise for him has been the pace with which luxury has been picking up. The men’s business has been one of the retailer’s best-performing areas, with tailored clothing, high-end sportswear, shoes, accessories and the store’s private label men’s line among the bestsellers. Color and fashion continue to perform well, said Ott. “We see both dress-up and casual doing well.…Our major urban doors are really performing in dress-up looks while our more suburban and Southern doors are excelling in more casual looks.”

Philipp Wolff, senior vice president of global communications at Hugo Boss, said the brand’s offering at Pitti will reflect a return to more dapper dressing. “Men are wearing suits again. We’re moving from a kind of casual wave towards a revival of classic, quality [clothing],” he said. “People are paying more attention to fabrics and details; they want to be a bit more dressy, to stand out from the crowd.”

Several tailoring brands, including Zegna and Brioni, confirmed their luxury leisurewear lines are growing fast as well.

Brands and retailers agree consumers are proving increasingly discerning about quality and design. “Men want quality and will pay for it. The customer is more educated than ever and knows product and quality,” said Saks Fifth Avenue’s Ott, adding that for spring 2012 he hopes to see “real luxury” from European designers. “With prices increasing, we need to rely on their creative skills to make a strong fashion proposition for luxury goods.” Barrett noted consumers are looking for more designed items, saying: “The more original the item, the better the sale for us.”

Showing a voracious appetite for luxury goods, emerging markets continue to exert major pulling power for brands.

Speaking of a recent business trip to Brazil, Francesco Pesci, ceo of Brioni said, “This booming market is definitely on our mind.” The brand plans to “very strictly” develop its retail network in China, he added, aiming to grow the total number of strategic locations there to 15 from 11 in the next couple of years.

Brunello Cucinelli recently entered China, with stores in luxury malls in Dalian and Chengdu, and has openings planned for Shanghai and Beijing this fall. The brand’s namesake founder, who had a big role in the blurring boundaries between chic sportswear and tailored clothing, recently said he is toying with the idea of a stock market listing. The firm in 2010 posted a 28.4 percent sales increase to 202.9 million euros, or $292.9 million at average exchange rates.

Isaia, which has signed a deal to open five monobrand stores throughout South Korea in the next two years, plans to open 30 new stores in China in the next 10 years. The brand will debut a new sportswear/outerwear collection at Pitti Uomo, comprising five jacket models and four pant models, and has bulked up its knitwear and footwear lines for spring 2012.

Zegna, which on June 23 will host a party for its new Peter Marino-designed Paris global store on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré to mark its 30th anniversary in Paris, is also planning a big event in Beijing on Sept. 15 to mark its 20th anniversary in China. This fall a new Peter Marino-designed global store will open on Rome’s Via Condotti.

Emerging markets account for 40 percent of the group’s sales, with China its most important market in terms of retail sales. Half of the brand’s planned 20 store openings for this year will be located in China. U.S. retail projects include the renewal of the lease for its Beverly Hills, Calif., boutique and openings in the King of Prussia mall in King of Prussia, Pa., and Short Hills, N.J., later this year.

Citing “exceptional” business in China, designer Neil Barrett said he plans to introduce his secondary line, BlackBarrett by Neil Barrett, there, before rolling it out to the rest of the world. Priced at around 40 percent less than the main line, BlackBarrett is already distributed in 38 stores in Japan. Barrett, who registered a 38 percent increase in total sales for the fall 2011 season, plans in September to open a landmark store in Hong Kong with Joyce.

Overall, executives said the recession pushed them to streamline the efficiency of their businesses at every level. “We are working hard to make our processes more efficient, not only in terms of costs but also more and more time-to-market,” said Brioni’s Pesci.

“It’s a real wake-up call on everything that you’re doing, from the cost of the supply chain to how you’re perceived by the consumer,” said Lance Isham, chairman and chief executive officer of casual-chic tailored men’s wear brand Façonnable, which is based in Nice in the south of France. The brand will operate two stands at Pitti, housing respectively Façonnable’s main line and a selection of summer essentials from its fledgling resort wear label, Azur. Isham said the brand plans to embark on a broad communication campaign over the coming months, including an “aggressive” social networking program.

Ongoing challenges for European brands, meanwhile, include the weakening dollar and volatile commodity prices. Having maintained prices for fall 2011, several brands, including Isaia and Canali, said for spring they plan to pass on some of the increases to clients. “Raw material costs continue to present our biggest challenge together with wage inflation in China, as it does for most of the rest of the trade,” said Mostyn Thomas, U.K. marketing director for Musto, which recently launched a men’s wear range in collaboration with design consultancy Joe Baker Design.

Traditionally a technical sailing brand, with 16 stand-alone retail locations in sailing destinations in the U.K., Musto recently opened a store in Marseilles and is planning openings in Paris later this year. The brand is focusing on growth through the men’s wear wholesale market, mainly in the U.K. and Italy.

“No one has any [fabric] stock anymore, they’re making fabric to order,” commented Barrett, adding that the increases on yarns has made designing a bit more of a balancing act. Many brands, including Lubiam, have been stocking up on fabrics in advance.

“It’s a choice that comes with risks but has proved a winning strategy, allowing us to respond in an efficient way to demand,” said the brand’s co-chief executive officer, Giovanni Bianchi. During Pitti Uomo, the company on June 14 will fete its 100th anniversary, with a cocktail party in the Limonaia Gardens at Villa Vittoria, showcasing a centenary-themed capsule collection."

-L.A.S

In Bloom

2011-06-06T15:18:00.002-04:00

This is one of those Sart Inc posts where I get the opportunity to rehash a bunch of shit and pass it off as a new post! Too much information? Okay, just kidding. I mean, I've talked about JandHP's repurposing cred and actually using up your lapel buttonhole before, but here is the opportunity where I get to Voltron those two into an unstoppable post meant to protect the galaxy. Right, so JandHP sell wonderful, hand made lapel flowers. They are cheap, lovely and an accessory that, while overlooked by many, is an absolute must have in my book. With a ton of colors, sizes and styles, there is absolutely no way you don't find one (or two or three) that fit perfectly into your sportcoat rotation. You're spending upwards of $500 on that perfect unconstructed joint for S/S so you might as well pull out all the stops as far as I am concerned. You will surely be the envy of every practical joke playing clown on the block. And I mean that in a good way.

-L.A.S

Howard Yount Tailored Goods 2.0

2011-05-23T17:58:00.001-04:00

No one doubted the value of Howard Yount's tailored goods when they launched last fall. However, fit was an issue. The jackets were on the short side and looked awkward on customers that were not hobbits - anyone who frequents StyleForum can attest to that. Never a brand to shy away from constructive criticism, Howard Yount went back to the drawing board for S/S 2011. All the great details, fabrics and construction is back, but now with a new and improved longer jacket. With the kinks worked out, HY is redefining what it means to offer a true value in the realm of tailored goods. In fact, I got an email from an industry buddy and tailoring enthusiast this afternoon who was quick to call this new crop of jackets "the best deal in tailored clothing." High praise no doubt, but you would to be hard pressed to find a better jacket for a better price. HY's made in Italy sportcoats are soft/lightly constructed, half-canvassed and feature considerable hand stitching. Tailored gang, throw your set up.

-L.A.S

Revisiting Boglioli S/S 2009

2011-05-23T11:48:00.001-04:00

For S/S 2009 Boglioli turned out one of the best ad campaigns and lookbooks of recent memory. I've talked about it before, but I recently found a behind the scenes video that documents the shoot, which took place on location in the Republic of Seychelles. If you ever need a reminder that the man makes the clothes (apologies to Mark Twain) and that dressing should be fun, look no further than what Boglioli's marketing department was doing in '09.

-L.A.S

1901's For Your 911

2011-05-16T14:12:00.000-04:00

I'm not sure about you, but I cooled off on boat shoes once my grandma started wearing Sperry Topsiders. Just kidding. But seriously, has anyone else been looking for boat shoe alternatives? Or, non-sneaker options for casual S/S footwear? If you answered "yes" to either of those questions then you probably want to keep reading. If you answered "no", let me congratulate you on having Wi-Fi on your yacht before you close your screen. Okay, moving on. I don't do too much driving these days (unfortunately, as Shawn said, I also "don't do too much bloggin"), but that didn't stop me from trying to track down a new pair of driving mocs as one of those S/S alternates I mentioned above. I'll be the first to admit that making the argument against city dwellers wearing driving mocs is warranted. Basically, most driving shoes cannot handle everyday wear. Those little rubber nubs that grace the sole wear out quick if you're main mode of transportation is of the bipedal nature. So, said argument is warranted, but also thin because driving shoes, especially a suede moc toe version, look damn good and anyone should be able to wear them if they see fit. Where does that leave us? For most of us, that eliminates Tod's because they are too expensive of an option for those who don't drive and don't drive something that gets you laid. Minnetonka charges beater prices, but they still have those damn nubs, so price per wear is a little iffy. Somewhere in between these two options happens to be Nordstrom's in house 1901 driving loafer. These suede beauties actually have a full layer of rubber between the the upper and the rubber nubs, which translates to a longer shoe life. I recently grabbed a pair and have been really happy with them. They are the perfect errand shoe and require not a single sock investment. Sand suede was my ticket, but there are a bunch of options for my more adventurous readers. They run true to size (assuming you are ditching socks) and have a more aggressive toe shape that recalls European brands four times as expensive.

-L.A.S

"Only Think About Your Tie When You Buy The Next One"

2011-05-09T11:39:00.001-04:00

I don't always agree with the stuff that comes out of Scott Schuman's mouth, but his recent treatise on Italian style for GQ UK is pretty great. Despite what you think about Italian style bombarding the blogosphere as of late, Scott and his blog have served as an advocate for this stuff since The Sartorialist's inception in 2005. Whether or not Scott is an expert I will leave up to you, but there is not denying the wisdom of a man who has worked closely with the men who embody a particular aesthetic. The bit about taking a little extra time when shopping and getting alterations done is particularly poignant.

"A lot has been written about 'Italian style'. A number of 'facts' have been detailed: the Agnelli-isms of unbuttoned shirt collars, unbuckled monkstrap shoes, ties over the sweater - your general sprezzatura minutiae. But when it comes down to it, these things border on gimmick. To me, that's not really about what Italian style is about, or what people relate to in my photographs.

What I think people are actually aspiring to is something much trickier to attain. It's the same kind of thing that you've seen in all classic menswear icons, most perfectly embodied by Cary Grantand Fred Astaire. It's grace.

Why people react to Italian style is the grace with which these gentlemen inhabit their clothes.

Now, some people will discredit this and call it 'effortless style', or write it off by saying, 'These Italians are just born with it.'

But it's quite the opposite. There is nothing effortless about their style, or their look. What's unique is that they put an extreme amount of effort into their look when they buy the clothes, when they have the clothes altered by their tailor, and when they put them on in the morning.

But once they put them on, they don't think about them until they take them off again at night. It's that graceful thoughtlessness that is so seductive.

Do me a favour. Look at these photos [below]. Look at the shoulder line. Look at how relaxed these guys are. Their shoulders aren't uptight and around their ears. These guys are having fun.

Then take a look at your typical Saville Row-tailored gent. Refined (read: restrained) to within an inch of his life, shoulders straight as a board and typically looking like they're having as much fun as an American wearing a suit.

If there is one piece of advice that I could give to someone who wants to embody, in their own way, the very best of Italian style, it would be: take an extra half an hour when buying the clothes, and extra half an hour at the tailor to make sure they perfectly fit you, and an extra half an hour in the morning to make sure you are confident in your choices.

Then think about food, think about women, think about cars - and only think about your tie when you buy the next one."

-L.A.S

Grenadine By Way Of Kent Wang

2011-05-09T11:03:00.000-04:00

Kent Wang has been popping up on a lot of radars these days thanks to, arguably, the best polo of the season. I'm not gonna talk your ear off about that because a simple Google search will yield you all the info you need in that regard. A year or so ago I recommended Kent Wang as a great place to pick up the oft-elusive traditionally cut knit. While I still think one of these, especially the pin dot versions, are a great purchase, I want to talk about grenadine ties at the moment. Much like shantung/raw silk neckwear, grenadine is super nerdy for lack of a better descriptor. Meaning, for those of us with a shit ton of ties, there are probably only a few items, if any, missing from our arsenal. Hell, Kent Wang calls grenadine "a connoisseur's tie", which is more or less a nice way of putting what I just said. So, what the hell is grenadine? Basically it's a loose silk weave that results in subtle texture that is most commonly found in solid colors. The benefits are pretty obvious - texture resulting from a tie you can wear in warm weather and it's easy to pair with your shirts. Kent Wang is selling a bunch for $75, which is a good deal when compared with various other grenadine options on the market. With the weather getting real nice I'm partial to pink and sky blue, but you can never go wrong with navy. I repeat, you can never, ever go wrong with navy.

-L.A.S

Attn: Gant Launches US E-Commerce

2011-05-04T11:01:00.001-04:00

We all knew this day was coming eventually. Today sees the launch of Gant's first in house e-commerce site for those of us living the American dream. And it's all here - Gant by Michael Bastian, Gant Rugger (by Christopher Bastin) and even their mainline stuff, which isn't heavily marketed across these amber waves of grain. While select products from these collections could be found at various online retailers prior, this will most assuredly be the easiest way to get any and all pieces each season. Shit, and you thought you were already broke.

-L.A.S

ISAIA And More With Agyesh Madan Pt. II

2011-04-26T10:27:00.001-04:00

Hey guys. Hopefully you learned a little bit about ISAIA yesterday and enjoyed hearing about one of the best tailored clothing companies in the world. Today we conclude our conversation with Agyesh on the extremely technical topics of fabric and construction. It's wordy, fascinating and, in a perfect world, you will learn a bunch of stuff you did not know when you woke up this morning.

L: In regards to S/S 2011, what is ISAIA most excited about offering their customer?

A: At the risk of sounding like a fan-boy, all I request everyone to do is just go and look at some the fabrics on offer. Run your hand through them, try the jacket or trouser on, walk around on the sales floor with it and just experience it. And then maybe take out your wallet, swipe the credit card, sign the bill, go home and welcome this new member of your family. Repeat.

L: It's clear, just based on your last answer alone that, ISAIA prides itself on giving its customers some of the most beautiful, natural fabrics in the world. Would you mind bragging about ISAIA's fabrics in detail?

I'll try. Well, there are three sets of fabrics that I am personally very excited about.

The Aquaspider Series: The most prevalent series in our collections and exclusive to us, this set of fabrics is something we at ISAIA are really proud of.

Woven from the finest 100 percent Australian merino wool, Aquaspider moves and stretches naturally with the wearer’s body for an ease of use and extreme comfort. The secret to Aquaspider’s natural stretch is in the very weave of the cloth. It is woven both longer and wider than usual; the cloth is then finished with a specially developed “shrinking” treatment. This allows the fabric the resiliency to maintain its “memory” and to bounce back to the wearer’s frame time after time. The entire process is carried out with 100 percent natural elements and without the addition of anything synthetic.

Aquaspider’s unique qualities spring from the fabric’s treatment with a natural water and stain-repellant coating. Unlike most water-repellant coatings, we add this treatment to the yarn before it is woven, thus adding longer lasting wrinkle, stain and water resistant qualities without the bright sheen and rough hand of similar fabrics.

This unique weaving process allows ISAIA to create the most premium of fabrics in its AQUA range and in the finest of weights: Super 110s, 130s, 160s, 180s and luxurious cashmere. It also enables a 14 to 20 percent natural stretch in both the warp and weft, providing unparalleled comfort in all-natural fabrics.

The Natural Blacksheep Series: Most fabric today is woven from dyed yarn that is spun from the fibers obtained from the natural white strands of sheep hair. Now, for this range of fabrics we used yarn that is spun from fibers obtained not only from the white strands, but also the shades of cream and brown sheep hair. This has allowed us to create a set of natural, completely un-dyed fabric in beautiful natural shades of cream, beige and browns in houndstooth, solids, nailhead, stripes, windowpanes and many more patterns. Clothing the way nature intended it to be.

The Natural Blueberry Series: Using the concept of Vegetable Dyeing, ISAIA has created a completely natural extra-fine merino wool fabric. Titled the "The Natural Blueberry", this set of fabric is dyed using extracts from blueberries and an evergreen plant called "Logwood" found only in Guatemala, Mexico and Belis. The product of a completely natural dyeing process, each batch of these fabrics has its own unique nuances and shades making for a remarkable garment.

L: Okay, let's get insanely technical for a second. Would you mind breaking down "Neapolitan tailoring"? I feel like people are throwing that term around, myself included, without properly understanding what it entails. Let's educate the people on ISAIA's best in class construction.

A: I am a geek when it comes the history of clothing, so I am going to start with sharing some interesting findings.

During the first half of the 14th century, Italy's oldest existing tailoring association, Confraternita dell’arte dei Giubbonai e Cositori, or the Brotherhood of the Jacket Makers and of the Tailors, was born in Naples. This institution gave way to the establishment of the region's wool and silk weaving trades. During the renaissance, the brotherhood's innovations sparked the inception of the great Neapolitan artisan tradition of tailoring. Neapolitan tailors were the first to commercially produce luxury garments fulfilling the requests of European royalty and aristocracy alike.

Building on that tradition, Enrico ISAIA opened small draper's shop in Naples in 1920, where he sold fabric for the production of men's garments. Each fabric was carefully selected from the best Italian and English mills for the Neapolitan tailors to use in their clothing production.

In the 1957, in an effort to fully immerse himself in the Neapolitan tailoring tradition, ISAIA relocated his business to the storied tailoring town of Casalnuovo, just outside of Naples. There was no other town like it in Italy, where more than half of its 15,000 inhabitants listed their profession as tailors. Along with sons Enrico, Corrado and Rosario, ISAIA started a small workshop next to his draper's store, employing a few of the town's very skilled, hand-selected artisans. And thus, a tailoring company was born, ISAIA, one that would bring the craft of Neapolitan sartorial across all seas.

Combining old world artisan care in tailoring with simple yet groundbreaking technologies, ISAIA began to manufacture beautiful made-to-measure suits. During the 1950s and 1960s, ISAIA grew to become one of the most respected tailoring companies in Naples and the rest as they don’t say is what you see right now.

Staying true to this Neapolitan craft, over the years ISAIA has developed a very thorough process of constructing its garments focusing on the following key elements.

CAD (Computer Aided Design)- Every ISAIA suit or sport coat model production starts in the design office. For all garments, whether a suit, sport coat or trouser, prototypes are created to guide production, and alterations through to the final design. The approved schematics are entered into the computer to calculate the most efficient use of fabric, thereby minimizing waste. The CAD office stores each of ISAIA’s suit models and clothes by name, size, and code in a database. This systematic start helps the craftsmen visualize the garment and provides a set course of action to follow.

Cutting of the fabric- Every patterned cloth (stripes, checks, Prince of Whales, etc) is cut by hand to ensure that all elements line up perfectly in the final product. The continuity of the stripes and patterns give the garment a more refined and luxurious look. This balancing of patterns is one attribute of a hand tailored garment. Linings and all solid fabrics are cut by machine.

Jacket construction - All parts of the jacket are produced separately: collar, inner and outer pockets, canvas, buttons, sleeves, and linings.

Front of jacket – All ISAIA suit jackets and sport coats have a full canvas construction, unless otherwise specified. The canvas, which starts at the top of the jacket and extends the full length of the garment, sits between the fabric and the lining, giving the jacket substance. The canvas is hand stitched to the fabric with a loose blind stitch, allowing the canvas to float freely with the body. The canvas is trimmed by hand to match the pattern of the cloth providing smoother, more custom fit. The fabric tape that runs along the edge of the lapel is stitched by hand, offering a clean, crisp lay of the garment against the body. If this were done by machine, the jacket would kick open and not lay straight in front when the jacket is unbuttoned. The chest and shoulders if padded are in Sea Island cotton (the finest and lightest cotton available.) Using these almost weightless natural materials ensures that the jacket remains as lightweight as possible allowing the garment to mold to the body creating a second skin for the wearer.

Breast Pocket – All ISAIA jackets have a welted outer breast pocket. This welt or slight curve is an attribute that can only be achieved through hand tailoring and is therefore a sign of great craftsmanship. This also allows for a perfect alignment of the pattern when the jacket is worn.

Back - The center seam of the jacket is created using of a sewing machine called a “Puller,” which adds strength to seams and stitches. This pulls the fabric taught while it sews, to prevent any wrinkling or puckering. The half back of the jacket is cut wider than the waist to provide maximum movement and comfort across the blades and shoulders. For all loosely woven fabrics (cashmere, wool, silk, etc.) a cotton lining (Silesia) is applied to the backside of the fabric seam to strengthen the stitching. This process is called “Ancoraggio,’ meaning encouragement or strengthening of the fabric. Additionally, this helps to reduce stretching of the fabric.

Silhouette and Shape - The upper chest portion of the jacket has a somewhat rounded expression, accentuated by the seam of the shoulder being slightly further back on the garment. This gives the appearance of a fuller chest, which in turn creates the illusion of a slimmer waist. The rounded chest is achieved by hundreds of stitches applied to the floating chest piece attaching it to the garment. This process gives a better contour to the jacket, enhancing the natural shape of the body’s curve. All ISAIA jackets have a very high armhole, a classic Neapolitan tailoring trait. This raised armhole allows for greater range of motion and a more natural fit, while elongating the appearance of the torso.

Sleeves – The traditional Neapolitan technique of “Grinze,” (small creases or small pleats) is incorporated to the sleeve-head of all ISAIA garments, creating an easier and more comfortable fit. Since the diameter of the armhole is smaller than the diameter of the sleeve-head, it is up to the skill of the tailor to handset the sleeve-head’s extra fabric into the armhole. This extra fabric allows for greater range of movement and comfort. Traditionally these pleats appear at the sleeve-head, but as Americans often misinterpret this handwork for a tailoring error; ISAIA produces its garments with the grinze on the inside of the garment. The grinze is a sign that the garment has been constructed by hand.

Internal Details - Each jacket is made with a blackberry or phone pocket, a pen pocket, and two breast pockets. They are hand sewn and anchored to the canvas of the garment.

Linings – ISAIA employs the use of beautiful yarn-dyed silk for lining. Yarn-dyed linings not only provide a richer hue, but they do not bleed when in contact with perspiration, which can occur with piece-dyed linings. The cutting and sewing of the lining is a crucial step in the construction process. Each lining is cut and sewn separately and has to fit perfectly to the inside of the jacket. If the lining is cut too generously, it will alter the shape of the silhouette, if too tight, the jacket will not have the flexibility or natural movement it requires.

Canvas - Canvassing is what differentiates an extraordinary suit from a mediocre one. Because the canvas is made from natural horsehair or boar hair, it forms to the body of wearer over time resulting in a more personal suit, fitting better with each wear. And because the canvas and the outer material of the jacket are not glued together, they move independently and hence more naturally. Each canvas is soaked and dried for a full day. This process is a traditional sartorial step before the canvas is cut and applied to the garment. The purpose of this step is to simultaneously soften and strengthen the canvas. The employment of 100% natural materials not only allows the garment to breath, but also it allows the canvas to mold to the body giving a more custom fit.

Collar - The collar is one of the most complicated and important pieces of the jacket. It is the “hinge” of the jacket that supports weight and balance of the coat. The collar is cut at a 60° angle, which allows the jacket to caress the neck reducing any gaps that can appear along the collar line.

Ironing and Pressing - All ISAIA garments endure a one and a half hour ironing and pressing regiment. After any handwork is finished, the garment is pressed manually, and then reinforced hand ironing takes places after total construction is completed. These two processes (mechanical and hand pressing) utilize a total of 18 different separate operations to ensure that every fraction of the jacket is pressed. This specified ironing is crucial in achieving the unique ISAIA body.

Mechanical Ironing – All machine ironing is completed by vintage Neapolitan presses, each in the shape of human body parts. Temperatures up to 248ºF (120ºC) and pressure up to 3.5 or 4 mmHg soften and shape the garments to achieve optimal fit.

Hand Pressing – For over 50 years, ISAIA has been hand pressing its garments as a method of reinforcing the mechanical pressing process. With handheld irons weighing roughly 10 lbs. (5 kilos) and distilled water, master pressers spend upwards of one hour perfecting the curves of every garment through this ironing process. As this requires tremendous human power and energy, one person can only iron a maximum of 8 jackets in a single day.

Quality Control – There are 5 separate points at which a garment is checked for quality. Prior to any production, ISAIA has all fabrics inspected by an independent, third party organization to ensure that they are off the utmost quality. The first point is called intermediate – this is where each of the separate parts of the garment is ready to be attached to form the final product. The second section of control is before the garment is sent to be hand stitched. The third and final control point is before the garment is sent for ironing and pressing. The controller decides which garments can move forward to be pressed and which need to be altered. This enables to keep the quality of each garment always at its highest level.

The final quality control – There are several criteria that a garment must pass before being sent to the end-user. These are: proportional measurements, characteristic of the original model and the quality points* of a finished garment. All of these criteria may vary according to the demands of clients. If a garment matches all quality references, it is packed in a waterproof bag with rounded shoulder shaped hangers, put in special boxes and shipped out.

That's all for now. We shall talk about trouser construction another day!

L: And, finally, when the NYC ISAIA showroom gets robbed do me a favor and don't alert the proper authorities. I'm too young to go to jail. Thanks so much, bud.

A: Now, for you it would go, try the jacket on, act like you own it, and sneak out of the front door. You are always welcome, my man!

Thanks again to Agyesh, for taking the time to answer these questions and share some of his unrivaled knowledge of both Neapolitan tailoring and, arguably, the finest Neapolitan brand in the world, ISAIA.

-L.A.S

ISAIA And More With Agyesh Madan Pt. I

2011-04-25T12:11:00.002-04:00

There's no point in beating around the bush, my good friend Agyesh knows more about clothing than anyone I know. There, I said it. It's always a pleasure to get together and just sit back while he straight up schools myself and others in all things even remotely sartorially related. Currently employed by ISAIA, Agyesh is one of the finest young guns working in menswear today and I figured it would make sense to have him impart some of his encyclopedic knowledge on us. There is a lot to take in here, so I have split the interview up into multiple parts. Sprinkled throughout is some fantastic imagery, handpicked by Agyesh himself, from Isaia's S/S 2011 collection, but these posts are all about the "words on the page", so to speak. Hopefully you find this interview as informative and enjoyable as I do.

L: Please introduce yourself and let the good people know a little bit about your menswear pedigree and what you do now for ISAIA.

A: Agyesh Madan, Men's wear enthusiast with a strong penchant for design and construction. I just love to find out how things are made, learn to make them and share with everyone how they are made. I am currently the Product Development and Marketing Manager for ISAIA Corp (USA).

[Editor's note: Agyesh, being his humble self, forgot to mention he has degrees from both Stanford University and Parsons.]

L: ISAIA is a brand gaining a lot of traction in the online menswear style blogosphere as of late. Since a lot of people are lumping all these Italian brands together, what sets ISAIA apart from some of the other names we've been hearing?

A: ISAIA's core philosophy revolves around the appreciation for our Neapolitan heritage combined with a global modern outlook. ISAIA today is a true reflection of Gianluca Isaia who brought a fresh perspective to the brand when he took over as the president in 2005. Continuously shuttling between America, Italy, Russia, China and Japan, Gianluca has a pulse on the markets all around the world, lending a global perspective to the brand. Instead of just relying on the laurels of our Neapolitan heritage, we have continued to push the boundaries by focusing a lot on fabric. Our very own super talented fabric designer, Leonardo, spins his magic every season with tastefully crafted color stories derived from some amazing inspirations. Some of the latest ones have included Scottish tartans, the SS Andrea Doria and Winter in Cortina, Italy.

Furthermore, with Gianluca at the helm we have reinterpreted some of our classic silhouettes to make them more relevant to the current times and our customers who we refer to as the ISAIA Men - Men that cry, Men that are willing to experience, Men that sin - True Men.

L: Anytime an ISAIA jacket pops up on a street style blog you can clearly see the red coral lapel pin (see image below, courtesy of Gilt Man). There is a pretty cool story and significance behind it that impressed the hell out of me when we last talked. I'm not ashamed to admit I was a little drunk, so I would love to hear the legend one more time.

A: The story behind the coral is one of my favorites. Remarkably superstitious people, the Neapolitans have many connections to this particular image that is unique only to the Bay of Naples.

Ancient mythology holds that the rare Mediterranean red coral was born from the story of Perseus and Medusa. Legend has it that the brave Perseus rose to the occasion of slaying the Gorgon Medusa and delivered her head as a wedding gift to the King of Seriphos, who was to wed his mother. During his travels home, Perseus fell in love with the beautiful Andromeda, who he saw chained to a seaside rock, soon to be eaten by the evil sea-monster, Cetus. To prove his love and save her life, Perseus killed the terrible beast. As he sat on the bank of the water to wash his hands, Perseus laid down the sack with Medusa's head next to him. The blood of her slain head dripped into the water and instantly transformed into what we know as Mediterranean red coral‚ forever a sign of good luck.

And hence, the little lapel pin is our wish for good luck for every customer that owns one of our jackets.

L: I'm of the opinion that the next great menswear trend born out of the internet is this idea of classic sportswear worn in a casual manner. You know, a dressed up, dressed down look that we've been seeing in Europe, primarily Italy, for a long time. How does ISAIA fit into this idea of the "Pitti Uomo man", as I've been calling it?

A: "Pitti Uomo Man", we know where we heard it first! Actually, the whole idea of wearing very classic tailored clothing in a more relaxed manner is the essence of Neapolitan dressing especially at ISAIA. Both on a very technical level with the soft/unpadded shoulders, the horsehair canvas that molds to the wearers body and on a metaphorical level where we refer to the jacket as our second skin, we strongly believe that looking polished and relaxed should not be exclusive choices. Last week, I had a very interesting discussion with our master tailor about the nuances and origins of the heavily padded jacket versus the soft-shouldered lightweight version. We concluded that while the heavily padded version was born out of a tailoring philosophy that used it to hide the flaws in a man's body and preserve the formality with which the suit was associated, the softer counterpart is born out of the Neapolitan philosophy to make the jacket feel like a shirt and allow the man to go through the day in the jacket without being physically hindered in any way. Armor vs. A shirt!

To put it succinctly, a combination of our tastefully designed and curated set of fabrics and our time tested construction is what you need to stay relaxed and polished.

L: Whenever I talk to industry guys, I always want to know about their own personal style philosophy. What are your rules, tips, tricks, etc. and how are you going to sartorial turn it out this S/S? I know you also do some freelance styling so I imagine you've got a lot to say.

A: Style Philosophy – A mish mash of varied life experiences all tied together with an understanding of proportions (thanks, dad) and a sense of color blindness (thanks, mom)

Spring Summer 2011 – I love my linen and cotton suits. You will see me tie-less a lot with some interesting new shoes in rotation.

Tips/Advice – Am not old enough to impart any. But if I had to, I would say it is as important to care about your attire and presentation, as it is to not lose yourself in this whole race to dress appropriate/stylishly. And, if you have any square-toed shoes (apart from military issue boots) throw them in the garbage right now.

In the end, they are just clothes. One can do a lot worse.

-L.A.S

Rose & Born S/S 2011

2011-04-25T10:51:00.003-04:00

Rose & Born is always one of, if not the most, intriguing stores I talk about on Sart Inc because unless you are going to Stockholm anytime soon it's merely inspiration in its purest form. But if we can't use the internet for inspiration then what the hell are we doing here? Besides the copious amounts of free pornography, of course. So yeah, for those unaware, Rose & Born is a Stockholm based menswear destination that popped up on my radar thanks to some of the highest praise I have ever encountered for private label goods. For a primer, peep this post from last summer. That pretty much brings us up to speed. Anyhow, the S/S 2011 collection is now available to view online and, as should be expected, it kills. Like, murder in the first degree, put 'em on death row and let Snoop Dogg perform at the VMA's in a wheelchair. Consider this another Sart Inc sponsored lesson in dressed up sportswear with all my favorite elements - soft shoulders, big boy lapels, double four-in-hands, washed denims, no socks, etc. Buttery ass Mondays are in full effect despite the fact that this was obviously shot with an iPhone.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: As always, AKC had it first.]

A Fashionable Life: Brunello Cucinelli

2011-04-15T12:45:00.000-04:00

Damn, Brunello has been getting some really great press lately. I'm really into features that give you a little insight into the actual people behind the clothes, not just the clothes themselves. Harper's Bazaar recently hooked up The Cucinelli family with one of their "A Fashionable Life" features and it's pretty solid. My takeaway, his daughters, Carolina and Camilla, are straight babes. Well done.

-L.A.S

Dream Team Follow Up

2011-04-14T15:00:00.004-04:00

It's been a minute since we last checked in with the "Miami Heat of this menswear shit". StyleCaster has us covered. Read and see more here.

-L.A.S

Havaianas Presents: Michael Bastian

2011-04-13T15:15:00.001-04:00

They first showed up in Michael's S/S 2011 show and now they are officially available for purchase. Can I level with you for a second? I don't wear flip flop. But that's not to say they don't serve a distinct purpose. If you are hanging out by a large body of water they are sure to come in handy. So, if you are looking for some cool flip flops because you anticipate being near a large body of water sometime in the future, you could do a lot worse than the Havaianas and Michael Bastian collaborative joints. Even better than the actual flip flops themselves, is the below video Havaianas put together with Michael. When the man speaks, I listen. You should too.

-L.A.S

Barena S/S 2011

2011-04-11T15:01:00.003-04:00

Remember Barena? Well, refresh yourself before you wreck yourself. While not as strong as S/S 2010, in my humble opinion, S/S 2011 is more of that relaxed, easy Barena vibe that is quickly gaining fans across the wide world of menswear (see: Tres Bien jumping on the bandwagon). Barena kinda gives me this Italian Engineered Garments vibe - great fabrics, loose tailoring, a focus on layering and a distinctive period or "costume" look (I do not mean that as an insult whatsoever). Anyhow, I really dig how these looks meet somewhere in between the supremely dressed down nature of S/S and an overall gentlemanly put together-ness. In fact, I think the "Barena look" is more accessible to the everyman than the much more dressed up "Pitti Uomo look" that looks to be somewhat of the next trend in internet driven menswear.

-L.A.S

"Five Ways Of The Summer Jacket"

2011-04-07T11:59:00.001-04:00

Here is probably my favorite spread from The Big Black Book S/S 2011 because of how in line it is with my own soapbox sartorial nonsense. I love me nothing more than an unconstructed, soft shoulder sportcoat for S/S and if you read Sart Inc you already know this. Here, Esquire directs us to their five favorites, which, while expensive, are all worth their weight in gold and from brands I personally love. At the end of the day, you are better off saving your money for that one perfect S/S sportcoat then spreading around your funds for a bunch of mediocre joints. Shout out to Pesko!

-L.A.S

"Three Days In Solomeo"

2011-04-06T11:16:00.002-04:00

Island life is overrated (just kidding) so it's back to the blogosphere (not kidding). Did you grab Esquire's The Big Black Book for S/S 2011? They absolutely killed it with one of their best editions yet. In fact, a lot of the stuff and ideas featured this season are similar to what I've been pushing/preaching on Sart Inc. It's for sure worth 1,000 of your finest pennies. Anyhow, I am going to be featuring some of the best stories and spreads in case beer monies are tight around your parts. Up first is 2011's front runner for outstanding menswear photojournalism. "Three Days in Solomeo" follows the adventures of one Brunello Cucinelli, but is really more about the spirit of Solomeo, Italy. For those unaware, Solomeo is Cucinelli HQ and his business is pretty much the town's entire economy. Check out the scans below and take in all the beauty, both sartorial and otherwise.

-L.A.S

Paolo Alavian: Philanthropically Inclined

2011-03-27T22:48:00.004-04:00

My good friend Antonio was nice enough to drop by Sart Inc to let everyone in on a good cause, some good food and some inspiring personal style to boot.

"If you are from the NY area and you’ve spent much time in SoHo, you may recognize the man below. He can usually be found in bright hued pants and a sharply tailored jacket on the corner of Spring and Sullivan St. in front of Ristorante Savore, the neighborhood’s long time go-to for quintessential Tuscan fare. His name is Paolo Alavian and he is the proprietor of Savore & Chicca, the mind-blowingly fantastic brick oven pizza spot just down the street. Like his restaurants, Paolo is a neighborhood staple - a fixture of downtown Manhattan. His unique style and sense of duty to his community and others are as transcendent as his roasted branzino with thyme, fennel and sliced

tomatoes.

In the wake of 9/11, Savore opened its doors and its kitchen to the many involved in the rescue effort. More recently, when the economy took a turn for the worst, he gave free meals to those in the neighborhood who had lost their jobs. It wasn’t long after the earthquake hit Japan that Paolo decided to get involved. This Wednesday he is holding an event aptly deemed Dine Out for Japan. The idea is simple - come and enjoy a sublime lunch or dinner (or both) at Savore or Chicca, and 100% of the proceeds will go to the Red Cross’ relief fund for Japan. All dishes and wine will have a suggested
donation price of 1 dollar but donors can give as much as they choose.

Please join the Savore/Chicca family on Wednesday. Whether you’re interested in giving to a worthy cause, trying a new restaurant or just experiencing the awesomeness that is Paolo, it’s an event you
won’t want to miss."

-L.A.S

Grown Man Crocs

2011-03-24T15:21:00.003-04:00

It seems that things get more polarizing on Sart Inc with every single post so I figured I might as well go for broke sooner rather than later. So, obviously, Crocs suck. No one is going to deny that - solidarity, folks. Their practicality and comfort are no excuse for how flat out terrible they look. But what if someone was to take the idea behind Crocs and make something not absolutely terrible? Well, Shudy, an Italian based shoe company, has done just that. Shudy will tell you that their "First" (named that because it was literally their first product ever produced) is some supreme meeting of art and object that redefines our idea of shoes. I'd tell you that's nonsense and that Shudy's plastic driving mocs are simply another viable option for S/S footwear. If you find yourself running with the "we off that Americana" set, these are your L.L. Bean boot mocs. Shudy isn't necessarily hard to get your hands on (read: Google), but it isn't exactly easy either. Bluefly has navy and Yoox has black. I can't personally pay more than $60 for these in good conscience so I'd recommend checking Yoox periodically for their seasonal restocks. A friend of mine loves his and swears by them so there is at least one testimonial floating out there in the ether. However, I'm still trying to track down someone to vouch for the Shudy Timbs.

-L.A.S

A Single Serving Of Spring Outerwear

2011-03-21T10:14:00.000-04:00

Since spring is, well, spring you're not going to need too many pieces of outerwear. In fact, if you play your cards right you can pretty much get by with just one. You may already have this one perfect piece of spring outerwear, but if you don't I'd like to make a case in favor of the Barbour Liddesdale. This lightweight yet warm jacket can take a beating and holds up great in any spring weather short of a monsoon. Style wise it's pretty much as on point as anything Barbour designs. There is a corduroy collar, snap closure side vents (most commonly seen on Barbour's Bedale model) and comes in a ton of colors. You can grab something subtle in a neutral color (i.e. olive or navy) or go bold in some of the bright options for S/S 2011 (i.e. orange, red, royal blue). Now, on to fit. Most people I know, and myself included, have sized down. I pretty much wear a medium in everything and a size small Liddesdale fits me perfectly. It's easy to layer over or under my tailored clothing and other casual jackets I have for spring. For example, this weekend I threw it over an old Engineered Garments field jacket. The Liddesdale also features something so many other jackets fail to capitalize on - trim sleeves. Overall, you're getting a ridiculously versatile jacket that is going to be your go to all season long for, at most, $150. In my mind, it's the perfect single serving of spring outerwear anyone could ask for.

[Last two images courtesy of The Sartorialist.]

-L.A.S

Luciano Barbera's Style Tips

2011-03-18T11:51:00.003-04:00

I know, I know. There is so much advice floating around the blogosphere. Every where you look there is someone telling you what you should or shouldn't do. I don't necessarily have a problem with this, but the credibility of the person giving said advice can be quite the elephant in the room, which is why I would like to direct you to some of the most credible advice I have ever read - that of Luciano Barbera. You've seen him on The Sartorialist countless times and the phrase "living legend" doesn't even remotely do him justice to be honest. His website is required reading as are his musings (no, truths) on style. Read 'em. Learn 'em. Love 'em. Break 'em.

"It’s not enough to have beautiful clothes. Lots of people have beautiful clothes. In fact, some people have too many. What is important is what you do with them. On the following pages I share some comments on how I dress and what I have taught my sons. Of course, they do not always take my advice. But that is the point. Neither should you. Look, listen, learn, and discard where appropriate.

The Jacket
A suit tells the world you are ready for business. A jacket tells the world you are open to fun. For me the ideal jacket should have soft and natural lines and balanced proportions. It should fit you but not constrict you. I do not believe in stiff shoulder pads. That is vanity, not style. Do not make it too tight. If it’s too tight, you will look like a matador. Any time I see a man playing golf or tennis in his jacket, I know he and I could be friends.

Trousers
There are many schools on trouser length. In America they are often worn so that the pant leg tumbles over the shoes. Many Europeans now wear them quite short. You even show a little sock. What can I say? Perhaps we Europeans are secretly afraid of flash floods. The picture at right shows, quite literally, where I stand. I call this the Mid-Atlantic Solution since it is halfway between Europe and America. The pants just breaking lightly on the shoe. I do not want to see your socks, but I do want to see your shoes.

The Shirt
I know I have said you can have too many clothes. But I take that back where shirts are concerned. The shirt is a triumph of modern life, like the automobile or the web. It is easy to put on and take off, quick to wash and easy to store. Plus, shirts look great. A man should own as many shirts as he wishes - the more the better.
I personally have so many shirts that I sometimes walk into my closet, pull one out, and think to myself, “Now where did that come from?” Having lots of shirts will allow you to surprise yourself with your own good taste.

The Tie
The tie follows the culture. In the 50s I wore a bow tie. In the 60s I tied a Windsor. In the 70s I went open-necked. In the 80s I had a big aggressive knot that said, do not mess with me. Now I find that what I want is a less-fussed-over-knot with a soft pleating. It is simple. It is declarative. It feels right. How will I wear my tie in the next decade? Who knows? Ask me then.

Seasonal
Everyone knows you wear wool in the winter, linen in the summer, and a straw hat from June 15th to Labor Day. Everyone is right. And therein lies the problem. Follow these rules and you will look like everyone else. Better that you display a little originality. On the gravest days of winter I put on my gray flannels, a cashmere tie in a sober color and my white linen jacket. The pants keep me warm. The tie gains me entrée into good restaurants. The blazer reminds me that summer will come again."

-L.A.S

[Editor's note: Hat tips to Die, Workwear! and Mister Crew.]

Raw Silk For S/S

2011-03-14T18:20:00.002-04:00

As the seasons change so does your neckwear. I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess that you've already been bombarded with countless tie options in a variety of S/S fabrics and patterns. Most, if not all, of these are fine. Shit, you probably already own a few similar versions. Let's forget about that seersucker and those critters for a second. Once again, these are totally fine, but for those of you who are after some texture more along the lines of the wool and cashmere F/W ties you wear and love, there is an option you may have overlooked - I'm talking about raw silk neck ties. The natural slub of the shantung silk creates a pretty unique texture and look that falls perfectly between dressed up and casual. In fact, a new raw silk tie is probably more versatile than your current crop of S/S ties and can easily go between your suits and more relaxed S/S jackets. As with anything even remotely neckwear related, Drakes has the best stuff. Their raw silk seems to have the best texture and they offer widths of both 2.8" (7cm) and 3.1" (8cm). However, the color combinations might be a little little stale for some. If that's the case, J. Press offers a bunch of in your face stripes and patterns featuring tons of bright colors done up in raw silk. Either way you're probably going to look a bit sharper than if you bought a new tie with lobsters playing golf on it. But don't take my word for it. Shantung has that coveted ODB cosign. Wait, he's talking about neckwear, right?

[Last picture courtesy of Die, Workwear!]

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Shout out to Nico for the assistance.]

Belvest S/S 2011

2011-03-09T12:34:00.000-05:00

For S/S 2011 the Belvest man is one with "emotional style full of personal invention." Inspired by the botanical gardens of Padua, Belvest is exploring themes of elegance alongside their trademark made in Italy quality and craftsmanship. The fits seen below strengthen Belvest's claims as the primer Italian brand offering tailored options for a youth oriented market. The jackets are shorter, fit closer to the body and the trousers are decidedly slim. The key piece for S/S 2011 is, what Belvest is calling, their "New Drape" jacket. Much like the best warm weather jackets coming out of Italy, the "New Drape" is completely unpadded, fits like your favorite shirt ("falls across the body in loose folds") and takes both it's name and inspiration from the drape sleeve.

-L.A.S

Weston Visits Rocco

2011-03-08T00:30:00.002-05:00

When Weston Wells, photographer extraordinaire whom I have talked about on this blog before, sent me an email letting me know he had some photos that might interest me, I knew I was about to get my hands on something special. Weston recently visited Rocco Ciccarelli and his custom tailoring operation out in Long Island City and, naturally, brought his camera along to document the whole thing. Rocco's reputation precedes him and I'd hate to ruin the beautiful images below with some of my nonsense, so I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. Not to mention, Michael Williams already broke down Rocco's genius perfectly back in 2008. I'd like to thank Weston and Rocco for making this post possible. Enjoy.

-L.A.S

First Look: L.B.M. 1911 F/W 2011

2011-03-03T13:06:00.005-05:00

When we last saw L.B.M. 1911 Josh Peskowitz was raving about their unconstructed sportcoats and blazers. For those unaware, L.B.M. 1911 is the more "casual" (in the Italian sense, of course) collection by the Mantova based tailoring house Lubiam. Founded in 1911 by Luigi Bianchi, Lubiam has been making some of the finest tailored tailored clothing in Italy for 100 years. F/W 2011, and L.B.M. 1911 in general, is all about deconstructing the blazer as much as possible - it's the definition of dressed down tailoring. Honestly, these jackets are probably more analogous to the shirts and knits you already have in your wardrobe. The L.B.M. 1911 F/W 2011 shots below embody the majority of the ideas I've been pushing on this blog for a while now - mainly, casually dressing down sportcoats and blazers for every day wear. The styling below even brings to mind some of the heritage trends currently dominating the American menswear market. I guess that traces itself back to L.B.M. 1911's penchant for pushing the envelope considering many Italian tailoring houses have refused to acknowledge this movement. I know this look isn't for everyone, but it's something I think we can all appreciate, especially considering the sheer workmanship put into these pieces.

-L.A.S

Boglioli S/S 2011

2011-03-01T16:41:00.001-05:00

When I've talked about Boglioli on Sart Inc before I've gone a little off the deep end as far as praise is concerned, but when you've tried one of their jackets on it's tough to stay level headed. For S/S 2011 Boglioli has really taken their fabric treatments up a notch. The washed fabric and over-dying looks great, feels great and really speaks to the budding idea (at least in one small corner of the blogosphere) of dressed down tailoring. Just picture that perfectly rumpled double breasted jacket over one of those Brooks Brothers spread collar polos, some creased tissue chinos and tassel loafers sans socks. Good look, no? Boglioli aint cheap (read: Barney's and Bergdorf), but I'm of the believe that everyone only needs that one great S/S jacket. And if you're only gonna have one, you might as well do it right. Check out some ad campaign and lookbook images below and hit Boglioli's website for all the relaxed, muted goodness.

-L.A.S

"The Master Modern Cobbler"

2011-03-01T14:10:00.003-05:00

If you read this month's GQ you might have noticed Will Welch's profile on Mark McNairy. Well, it's up on the website and is a seriously great read. With phrases like "the most talked-about cobbler in, what, a century" this is a career changing piece of press for Mark. The article contains some great insight into Mark's roots, production and his buzzed about debut collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills. A big congrats goes out to one of my favorite designers and my friend, Mark McNairy. I think this serves as proof that if you challenge conventions and continue to do what you set out to do in the first place, people will notice.

-L.A.S

First Look: Gant Rugger F/W 2011

2011-02-28T10:14:00.001-05:00

Christopher Bastin let this first look at Gant Rugger F/W 2011 slip through the cracks over the weekend and since Gant Rugger is one of my favorite brands it should come as no surprise that you are looking at them now. I was lucky enough to see the collection at Rugger's Twenty Four Hour Session back in December and can say, without a doubt, that this is just the tip of the iceberg. Ironically enough, however, my favorite piece of all F/W 2011 can be seen below. The one button shawl collar dinner jacket is probably the coolest piece of formal wear I have seen in a while. I love how Chris added gold blazer buttons to take it to the next level and make it unmistakeably Rugger - an example of why he is one of the best designers working today and a Sart Inc favorite.

-L.A.S

E. Tautz F/W 2011

2011-02-25T14:01:00.001-05:00

Instead of me pasting a shit ton of pictures here, London Fashion Week TV has provided us all with a nice motion picture of the E. Tautz F/W 2011 collection recently shown in London. I'm not the biggest fan of the knits, but I can get down with those gigantic lapel outerwear pieces, especially that double breasted khaki number. If you are unfamiliar with Patrick Grant, one of menswear's rising stars, click the tags at the bottom of the post.

To watch more, visit designer_profile.aspx?DesignerID=1165

-L.A.S

Gant By Michael Bastian F/W 2011 NYFW Video

2011-02-25T12:56:00.000-05:00

Here is a new video giving you guys an idea of what the Gant by Michael Bastian F/W 2011 presentation was like, sans attendee pandemonium, with some choice words from the man himself.

-L.A.S

Run Of The Mill Shop S/S 2011 Is Live

2011-02-24T13:34:00.000-05:00

Not much to say here, since I think we pretty much everything the other day, but I just wanted to let all interested parties know that all of our S/S 2011 gear, both private label and the Monitaly double breasted linen blazer, is now online.

-L.A.S

Caruso at Rugby

2011-02-23T18:38:00.000-05:00

Were you wondering why Rugby's new spring jackets were practically $600? Well, now you know - Raffaele Caruso is in the house. The Italian manufacturer has made jackets for Ralph before, mainly Blue Label aka the mainline stuff, but this is their first venture with Ralph's younger, cheaper Rugby line. If you're not familiar with what Caruso does you can brush up here courtesy of Jeremy. Turns out Rugby has ditched the poor man's Thom Browne fit and gone with a new natural shoulder, suppressed waist and fully canvassed sport coat. According to some intel I got today, these jackets fit insanely well off the rack if you're into a more Italian look.

-L.A.S

First Look: Run Of The Mill S/S 2011 Private Label

2011-02-22T13:47:00.005-05:00

I normally like to keep all things ROTM related off the blog since they really don't have anything to do with each other, but I'm really proud of our new private label goods for S/S 2011 and wanted to share them with you guys as soon as possible. When thinking about where we wanted to take the online shop it was pretty much a no brainer. While we love working with some of our favorite brands, it came to a point where we wanted to do something that really spoke to what the brand was about. For S/S 2011 we are offering our first ever forays into the worlds of private label footwear and shirting.

Our made in Northern Italy (between Milan and Como in Lombardia) double monk straps are probably what I, personally, am most psyched for. The thought process behind those was to create what we believed to be the double monk strap a guy should own if he was only going to have one pair. We skipped the aggressive toe you see on most Italian and English version and went with a more naturally rounded last reminiscent of Allen Edmonds' discontinued, but much loved Mora. To keep things as versatile as possible we did it up in a beautiful brown calfskin and added silver rounded buckles that look fantastic when left undone. The quality of this shoe is off the charts - the plan, all along, being to offer the best value double monk on the market.

To compliment the shoes, and simply offer a seven days a week staple item, we are also selling cutaway collar oxford shirts. As most of you probably realize this style of shirt is virtually impossible to find off the rack anywhere. We have both a blue and white version available that are made in the USA and speak to our love of mixing Anglo and Italian styles. No matter how you wear your shirts, or what you wear them with, it is our belief that this shirt is as good as it gets.

All our private label items will be available on our website for preorder shorty (the plan is to launch tomorrow) and sales will be open for a month. The double monks will retail for $405 and the shirts for $105. We also added an incredible double breasted linen blazer from our friends at Monitaly to round out our S/S 2011 offerings. Hopefully you guys like what we've done for the upcoming season and are a fraction of just how excited we are for all the good stuff that's coming up. A lot more pictures and information will be available when everything launches, but if you have any pressing inquiries you can always send me a personal email.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: The new gear is live.]

Gant By Michael Bastian F/W 2011

2011-02-18T14:02:00.001-05:00

Ok-k-kay, I'm back from Las Vegas and as Terrance would say, "I'm here now. Pardon my lateness." As I have previously mentioned on Twitter, Gant by Michael Bastian F/W 2011 was one of the few "fashion" things going on during NYFW that I not only had an interest in, but was really looking forward to. The presentation was very well done and absolutely packed with all the names and faces Tumblr kids absolutely lose their shit over. So, yeah, I was happy that I got to experience the collection in an atmosphere that was buzzing and probably on some fire marshal's radar. Now, onto the clothes. I knew beforehand that the vibe was going to be Bastian's version of Americana, but seen through a European lens - a Scandinavian one, to be specific, thanks to Team MB's constant jaunts to Gant's Stockholm headquarters. What they set out to accomplish they definitely succeeded in doing and any recap that you happen to read is going to say just that. The whole L.L. Bean by way of Sweden vibe speaks to Bastian and co.'s ability to synthesize various ideas in a way that fits in with what his customer, the constantly referenced "Michael Bastian guy", has come to expect and appreciate. A collection firmly rooted in two very distinct styles shouldn't work and shouldn't work well, but I guess that is what separates Bastian from the countless other designers working today who lots of us menswear nerds casually dismiss. As in each successive season (in both his Gant and namesake line) Michael has built upon his version of American sportwear, while continuing to push the envelope into ambitious territory at the same time. For me, F/W 2011 was great because it was a little rougher around the edges than his past two Gant collections - a little more unpolished and I mean that in the best way possible. Both Bastian and Christopher Bastin, the designer of Gant Rugger, have mentioned gang imagery as reference points recently and I think some of that comes across here. No one will deny that the styling was bold, busy and bombastic, a Bastian signature, but looking at the individual pieces on their own reveals a F/W 2011 collection that is extremely wearable, well made and damn stylish. At a very pivotal time in his career Michael was able to deliver his most ambitious collection for Gant yet and prove that betting against him, quite simply, is a foolish endeavor.

-L.A.S

Ascot Chang F/W 2011

2011-02-11T11:20:00.005-05:00

Amidst the clutter of New York Fashion Week shit I couldn't care less about there are a few menswear gems worth talking about. Ascot Chang is one of those gems. Known primarily as one of the finest tailors in all of Asia, Ascot Chang has been running their bespoke business since 1953 and proving that "Made in China", or "Made in Hong Kong" in this case, is not the stigma everyone preaches. The purpose of their F/W 2011 presentation was to showcase some of the new shirting and suiting they designed for the upcoming season. Styled by Michael Macko, who you might know as Valet's Editor at Large, F/W 2011 has two "stories" - an officer and a gentleman. I'd personally categorize it as Italian-esque alpine sportswear, if that makes any sense. Anyhow, the shirting fabric is primarily from Thomas Mason and the suiting was primarily Loro Piana. There were many highlights as you can see below, but for my money the cargo trousers and subtle camouflage pattern shirt were the best of the bunch. This won't be the last time you read about Ascot Chang on Sart Inc as I was lucky enough to get fitted for a custom shirt, which I plan on reviewing, naturally, when it is complete. A big thanks goes out to Michael Macko, Justin Chang and Thomas Yu for being such gracious hosts and doing exciting stuff during a week when I'm generally a negative nancy.

-L.A.S

Attn: Steven Alan For Dockers Ranger Cargo Pants On Sale

2011-02-09T10:22:00.000-05:00

Back in September I highlighted this pants from the Steven Alan for Dockers capsule collection and even argued for the case that they would sell out at light speed. Well, as many of you are pretty accustomed to by this point, I was wrong. But, that's kind of a good thing in this case because now they are on sale over at Steven's site. Surprisingly there is a decent grip of sizes available - if you're a 32 or 33, sorry. $89 for pants that used to be $128 ($148?) is a pretty good deal especially considering this elusive type of "big boy cargo pants", as a friend calls them. The Ranger Cargo was the slimmest pant offered in the capsule collection and the fit is similar as Steven's mainline Naval pant for those of you keeping score at home. I doubt these are warm enough for February on the east coast, but they will make a great pant as winter transitions into spring and for fall.

-L.A.S

Mark McNairy by Spiewak F/W 2011

2011-02-07T13:04:00.000-05:00

Mark McNairy's collaboration with American outerwear juggernaut Spiewak wasn't just a one off for S/S 2011. No, he's back at it for F/W 2011 and recreating Spiewak's classic snorkel parka in his own image. When he told me he was going to do a lookbook featuring only women I was intrigued to say the least. While these jackets are pretty much unisex, I think we can call agree that they look much better on pretty girls. But then again, you can say that about anything, I guess. Whoever did the casting on this one deserves a Nobel prize. For more information on Mark McNairy by Spiewak check out this interview Mark did for Spiewak's website.

All photos by Lee Clower.

-L.A.S

The Nominees: Patrick Grant

2011-02-06T11:11:00.002-05:00

Patrick Grant didn't win the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund, but here is a video Vogue.com released with their only menswear nominee. As seen over at Die, Workwear!, which is a fantastic blog you should be reading.

-L.A.S

First Look: Mark McNairy San Salvador

2011-02-03T13:15:00.002-05:00

When Mr. McNairy was visiting El Salvador he discovered a style of boot he had never seen before. The Burro boot is the official shoe of El Salvador's working class and the signature style produced by Empresas ADOC, Central America's largest family owned manufacturer. ADOC provides all of its workers with a pair - the cost of which is equivalent to one day's pay. Known for their tough and rugged nature, the Burro boot has been worn through revolutions and is symbolic of El Salvador's everyman. Wanting to bring this iconic shoe outside of Central America for the first time, Mark is launching his San Salvador collection. Mark's version, made by ADOC, keeps the classic silhouette and thick vulcanized rubber sole, but features new eyelets and rich suede uppers. The plan is to eventually build the San Salvador collection to include more authentic El Salvadorian footwear such as roper boots on a similar rubber sole. McNairy's Burro boot will be available in stores soon and should retail for around $125.

-L.A.S

First Look: Ovadia & Sons F/W 2011

2011-01-31T12:40:00.001-05:00

After all the Tumblr previews and all the hype, I am proud to present to you guys the F/W 2011 collection from my friends the Ovadia brothers. These guys have a big year ahead and I absolutely cannot wait for the menswear domination that is surely going to ensue. Enjoy.

-L.A.S

Walk-Over Revisited

2011-01-27T17:34:00.002-05:00

I talked about Walk-Over's relaunch back in August, but a new website and a closer look at their newly available "Men's Classics" and S/S 2011 collection warranted a revisit. I'm still trying to get some solid information on Mark McNairy's role in all of this and also figure out who in the USA is making these. For now, enjoy some good looking shoes.

-L.A.S

T Magazine Shoots (capsule) NY F/W 2011

2011-01-27T13:53:00.001-05:00

The New York Times was in the house at the most recent (capsule) Men's Show in NY to pull their favorite brands for a photoshoot styled by Jason Rider and shot by Taea Thale. There are a bunch of great brands represented here and while you have already seen a ton of (capsule) coverage all over the blogosphere I doubt anything is this slick.

-L.A.S

Gant Rugger S/S 2011

2011-01-26T12:13:00.001-05:00

Sart Inc favorite Gant Rugger has just released their newest moving picture and it's as awesome as ever. You can bet your ass that the gangs of New Haven will style on you. Chris, you killed it, bud.

-L.A.S

Brooks Brothers Spread Collar Polo

2011-01-25T11:56:00.001-05:00

Oh hell yes. This is the kind of polo I've been after for a long time - long sleeve, button cuff and a spread collar. It's a top notch layering piece (think how Bastian styles his rugby shirts) and a much dressier option compared to your average polo shirt. And, guess what? This shit is on sale to boot. If you want something a little different from the standard popover style you can also grab a full placket version, which is kinda just a cotton shirt for the most part. I'm hitting the BB flagship here in NYC after work to check these out in person. Assuming the fit on these is legit, comments on the site point to a trimmed up fit, this is a deal that is too good to pass up.

-L.A.S

Sartoria Partenopea And The Year Ahead

2011-01-24T11:20:00.005-05:00

I didn't really plan on getting too deep into my various sartorial resolutions for the year ahead on Sart Inc, but plans often change unexpectedly. And when you come across something so in line with what you're trying to do, well, said plans change ever quicker than normal. So, what am I trying to do in 2011? It's time for my sportswear to "get grown", in a nutshell. I will be talking about this at considerable length via a separate avenue soon, but let me quickly break things down. It seems that the culmination of what I have been trying to do with my wardrobe and personal style for the past year or so is coming to a head in 2011. I'm not talking about suiting up everyday of the week, but I am talking about stepping up my casual outfits with more "formal" elements - more jackets, more ties, trousers, generally nicer shirts and more layering. My goal is to present an image and cultivate a personal look that has practically been abandoned here in The States, but is still thriving in Europe amongst the style set. Why this? For starters, my personal taste has been headed in that direction for quite a while and I believe it is time to commit to the best of my ability. Not to mention, those whose style I admire the most do this effortlessly and I feel like taking a sincere crack at it. So, for me, 2011 is all about grown man sportswear - keeping things short of wearing a suit on the regular, but still put together at the same time. If that previous statement makes absolutely no sense to you I totally understand, which is why I have provided some handy examples courtesy of Edwin (who happens to be running my favorite Tumblr right now). Sartoria Partenopea has my ideal aesthetic down pat. While some of these outfits are incredibly loud (something I tend to avoid for the most part) they still illustrate the idea of elevated sportswear done very, very well. The kits below are far from formal, yet present a very solid, mature image. Join me or scoff at me. It's all good. Just try to be better in 2011. That's the message. For more information on Sartoria Partenopea Jeremy has you covered, obviously.

-L.A.S

Attn: Ovadia & Sons Online Store Launches

2011-01-21T16:12:00.001-05:00

You can now get your hands on some gear from what is easily one of my favorite new brands - Ovadia & Sons have officially launched their online store. S/S 2011 sportswear is being stocked as we speak and I have been informed that tailored pieces are on their way. Kit yourself out.

-L.A.S

Woolrich John Rich & Bros. F/W 2011

2011-01-21T11:49:00.002-05:00

Woolrich John Rich & Bros. will always be a favorite of mine thanks to how the brand's aesthetic lines up so well with my own. It's a very Italian take on Americana and this should come as no surprise considering who owns the brand. I've talked at length about my love of fusing Italian and Anglo sensibilities so lets get onto the collection. The Woolrich John Rich & Bros. F/W 2011 collection is a little underwhelming to be honest. You never expect retail heavy lines like this to stray too far outside of the box, but you also don't expect complete retreads. Anyhow, what I do appreciate from these shots (besides the extremely solid parkas) is that they show you how to wear hiking boots in a way we haven't really seen as of late. The hiking boot explosion seems tied to all of those peacocks who frequent Pitti Uomo and Milan Fashion Week this time of year. I actually think the whole trouser/tailored clothing with hiking boots look is pretty cool assuming you can pull it off, but, for the rest of us who can't, Woolrich John Rich & Bros. is here to illustrate how you can easily switch out your Bean boots or Red Wings for this style of boot. Stay rugged, Ponyboy.

-L.A.S

Adam Rapoport And Lands End Canvas

2011-01-19T17:34:00.002-05:00

I'm not sure how the bloggerati missed this, but former GQ Style Editor Adam Rapoport teamed up with Lands End Canvas to do a video series as an offshoot/supplement of the always popular "GQ Rules" feature. It's most surely for beginners and only features LEC gear, but hey, Rapoport is the shit so whatever.

-L.A.S

Attn: Fair Isle Ties For $10

2011-01-19T12:54:00.000-05:00

In what is surely going to go down in history as the wackest recommendation in Sart Inc history I am pleased to introduce you to the ten dollar fair isle knit ties now available for dudes at Forever 21. That's right, Forever 21. Oh yeah, they are also 100% polyester. So why the hell am I talking about these? Well, I figured at least one of you out there was eating ramen and muttering to yourself about how a new fair isle tie would really improve your day. Anyhow, proceed with more than a little bit of caution and don't say I never did anything for you.

-L.A.S

Woolrich Woolen Mills F/W 2011

2011-01-18T23:39:00.003-05:00

The most anticipated collection (at least for me) of F/W 2011 is officially in the books and we might as well put it out there - this is wholly Mark's collection. The Daiki Suzuki era has come and gone. While this may bum some people out, I couldn't be more excited for the second phase of WWM. So, did McNairy deliver? That's for you to decided for yourself, obviously, but for my money he most definitely did indeed. After hearing Mark mention how his version of WWM would focus much more so on Woolrich's collegiate and military history those of us less enamored with the whole hunting vibe breathed a much needed sigh of relief. Don't get me wrong, I think Daiki is one of the best designers working today. In fact, I own quite a bit of his stuff. Regardless, some aesthetics get tiresome and evolution is a natural part of the fashion industry - needless to say, I was more than ready for a new direction. The end result is pretty much what I was expecting from Mark. WWM F/W 2011 definitely comes from a collegiate and military place, but what clinches it for me is the collection's edge, for lack of a better word. Mark has made a name for himself thanks to his ability to take the classic and put his own spin on things and he's done it yet again. There's less quirk than what we've seen from his own line (which is to be expected from something of this scope), but there is still that rebel attitude. That, "I wear what I want to wear when I want to wear it" feeling. Honestly, it's kinda punk rock. And I absolutely love that shit. The endgame for this new partnership can't be determined after just one collection, but I've talked to a few European buyers already and they are psyched. Where it will be stocked and what exactly will be stocked in The States is yet to be seen, but I hope lots, if not all, of this is readily available so I can go ahead and spend money I don't have. Some parting thoughts:

-Those crepe sole double monks are a new style from Mark McNairy New Amsterdam.
-This collection is a little bit smaller than I imagined it would be.
-For a feel of the WWM 2011 presentation in Milan be sure to head over to Isaac's spot.

-L.A.S

Gant By Michael Bastian At Pitti Uomo 2011

2011-01-14T16:09:00.002-05:00

Mr. Bastian takes us skiing in Scandinavia for his sole F/W 2011 collection. The MB team is particularly proud of this stuff and it's not hard to see why.

-L.A.S

[Editor's Note: Most of the stuff seen in this video is actually Gant Rugger and Gant's mainline collection. Take it from someone who has seen Gant by Michael Bastian F/W 2011 - it's awesome.]

Brunello Cucinelli At Pitti Uomo 2011

2011-01-13T13:08:00.001-05:00

Who has got two thumbs and a quilted double breasted jacket? This guy.

-L.A.S

Alden At Pitti Uomo 2011

2011-01-13T12:55:00.003-05:00

Unless Google translate is messing with me, there are these new boots coming out that are apparently "inspired by the famous shoes of Harrison Ford". Indy boots? Never heard of 'em.

-L.A.S

First Look: Woolrich Woolen Mills F/W 2011

2011-01-13T10:24:00.004-05:00

When it rains, it pours. Hot on the heels of yesterday's post, today sees the first look at the "coat range" in Mark McNairy's upcoming WWM F/W 2011 collection. It's all pretty classic, extremely wearable and fits surprisingly well within the paradigm established by Daiki Suzuki. Some coats should even look familiar - off hand, I spot the Mountain Parka. We're obviously still waiting on everything else, but this makes me think we won't be let down. Not that I thought we would be in the first place. Enrico locked down the world premier so shout out to Italians making me feel bad about my blog.

-L.A.S