tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post9097744718598823772..comments2024-03-18T23:40:47.707-04:00Comments on Sartorially Inclined: Know Your WeltsL.A.Shttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09794979185698861626noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-68616282231130782632013-11-12T09:11:45.886-05:002013-11-12T09:11:45.886-05:00The Goodyear construction shown in the diagram is ...The Goodyear construction shown in the diagram is not one. It shows a leather holdfast, ans so represents a hand sewn construction. A diagram of a GY welt should show the tissue strip, glued (gemming) characteristic of this mechanized technique.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-51619023694073616522010-12-14T11:54:22.567-05:002010-12-14T11:54:22.567-05:00The Blake stitching on the insole tends to irritat...The Blake stitching on the insole tends to irritate my toes if I am doing a lot of walking. This may be because the two pairs of Blake constructed shoes I own are relatively low end. But it has lead me to prefer Goodyear welted shoes on the whole.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-62410745534964027412010-12-13T12:53:32.781-05:002010-12-13T12:53:32.781-05:00This stuff is cool, if you're going to spend 5...This stuff is cool, if you're going to spend 500+ on a pair of shoes or $1500+ on suit you should know why you're paying up and the engineering/construction is a large part of that.MJPhttp://www.twitter.com/tadallagashnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-87694575837556336372010-12-13T09:46:03.640-05:002010-12-13T09:46:03.640-05:00Anon @12:36- You criticism is duly noted, but know...Anon @12:36- You criticism is duly noted, but know that in this case I actually own a pair of Blake constructed shoes and thanks to the shoe buys I have been a part of with Run of The Mill I have been hands on with a large variety of shoe construction/welts.<br /><br />Joe- Couldn't agree more.L.A.Shttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09794979185698861626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-91823612993465480452010-12-12T23:02:18.123-05:002010-12-12T23:02:18.123-05:00Blake or Blake/Rapid stitching have a place in the...Blake or Blake/Rapid stitching have a place in the shoe world. But there are other ways to get sleekness. A nailed sole, as some of the Central European cobblers (notably Georg Materna) use, and as RM Williams uses on some of their boots, is one such option. But in general I think a good rule of thumb is: <br />-Goodyear or nailed sole for dress shoes and boots<br />-Goodyear or Blake/Rapid for loafers<br />-Goodyear or Norwegian for casual shoes, such as split-toe derbies<br />-Norwegian or storm welting for inclement weather shoes/boots.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-76350995031938657542010-12-12T18:33:13.939-05:002010-12-12T18:33:13.939-05:00^^Exactly. Lawrence is such a goon. This blog woul...^^Exactly. Lawrence is such a goon. This blog wouldn't even exist if Lawrence actually did work at his day job.Joenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-2110561290251757902010-12-12T12:36:38.192-05:002010-12-12T12:36:38.192-05:00L.A.S. - This thread is a perfect example of why y...L.A.S. - This thread is a perfect example of why you should consider an end to the unconvincing voice of authority that you post with. Vouching for the fit and finish of garments that you have never seen in person, parroting incorrect info -- it all becomes a huge distraction.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-74986369552527898582010-12-12T12:28:13.360-05:002010-12-12T12:28:13.360-05:00"PS: if you're going to use words like &q..."PS: if you're going to use words like "encomiums" at least use the correct form of "it's". "<br /><br />Someone knows how to keep things interesting!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-10913349001288056592010-12-12T01:55:53.104-05:002010-12-12T01:55:53.104-05:00I was just looking at those same images within the...I was just looking at those same images within the past couple weeks!<br /><br />Despite the hilariously terrible music, these are some kind of neat videos of people using shoe manufacturing equipment: http://www.youtube.com/user/goodyearweltedJoehttp://www.joewasserman.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-88059756429463841322010-12-11T16:22:59.825-05:002010-12-11T16:22:59.825-05:00I'd be willing to bet that this anon is beyond...I'd be willing to bet that this anon is beyond boring in real life since he gets his kicks out of arguing about the semantics of shoe construction. GET A LIFE.<br /><br />PS: if you're going to use words like "encomiums" at least use the correct form of "it's".Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-1937425658349289492010-12-11T14:18:21.132-05:002010-12-11T14:18:21.132-05:00Anon- Dude, your passive aggressive and subsequent...Anon- Dude, your passive aggressive and subsequent self loathing comments are keeping things interesting over here. Thanks for taking the time to comment.L.A.Shttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09794979185698861626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-14020754480625743992010-12-11T14:15:33.014-05:002010-12-11T14:15:33.014-05:00"Better reputed" is indeed subjective (h..."Better reputed" is indeed subjective (hence "reputed"). It is certainly worth knowing the difference, and why one type of construction may be preferable over another. Thus, examinations of terms (a.k.a. "semantics") are useful when most "information" is simply a collection of buzzwords that give context and variety the short shrift. That goes for anyone who cares about the topic and not just pedantic anonymous dweebs like myself.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-46222442316545815052010-12-11T13:36:02.007-05:002010-12-11T13:36:02.007-05:00Anon @1:00- Also, you asked to hear a "shoe e...Anon @1:00- Also, you asked to hear a "shoe expert's take". Ducal's description above mentions the phantom welt you are questioning....L.A.Shttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09794979185698861626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-34186711012903686322010-12-11T13:30:53.191-05:002010-12-11T13:30:53.191-05:00Anon @1:00- Post updated so we can all be friends ...Anon @1:00- Post updated so we can all be friends again.<br /><br />And "better reputed" is completely subjective.L.A.Shttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09794979185698861626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-87491481346648396202010-12-11T13:00:09.542-05:002010-12-11T13:00:09.542-05:00Its incorrect, wherever it is heard. There is no ...Its incorrect, wherever it is heard. There is no welt. To call it a "Blake Welt" is to perpetrate a misnomer for the sake of drawing a false equivelance to the better reputed Goodyear welt. If you were in the business of selling shoes, that kind of weasel wording may serve a purpose. Otherwise, and especially if you hope to impart knowledge about a subject, its not merely a semantic distinction. Its the difference between understanding the material and parroting lingo.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-30351988936470203692010-12-11T12:41:15.399-05:002010-12-11T12:41:15.399-05:00Anon @12:38- Arguing over semantics, especially wh...Anon @12:38- Arguing over semantics, especially when it comes to clothes/shoes/etc., is pointless. Referring to "Blake construction" as a "Black welt" is not unheard of.L.A.Shttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09794979185698861626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-8312186383121796522010-12-11T12:38:37.223-05:002010-12-11T12:38:37.223-05:00If by your word you specifically mean the word &qu...If by your word you specifically mean the word "welt", then I won't. QED. Blake constructed shoes do not have a welt. Know thyself your welts.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-43558063953571300872010-12-11T12:37:57.940-05:002010-12-11T12:37:57.940-05:00McDonald's chicken nuggets are crispy. Someti...McDonald's chicken nuggets are crispy. Sometimes it's best to learn a little about a product if you expect it to last for decades. Ironically, Mcnuggets may live as long as a pair of John Lobbs with all those preservatives they inject into them...Andrew Sohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14838402461865452148noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-57732412902590580322010-12-11T12:11:40.925-05:002010-12-11T12:11:40.925-05:00SO FUCKING BORING. I BUY SHIT CAUSE IT'S CRISP...SO FUCKING BORING. I BUY SHIT CAUSE IT'S CRISPY NIGGA.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-41507863447441011642010-12-11T11:58:24.990-05:002010-12-11T11:58:24.990-05:00Anon 11:52- Please, don't take my word for it ...Anon 11:52- Please, don't take my word for it because obviously you think I am an idiot/asshole.<br /><br />Read this:<br /><br />http://the-last-shall-be-first.blogspot.com/2007/12/shoe-construction-blake.htmlL.A.Shttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09794979185698861626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-2269225123538851422010-12-11T11:52:02.426-05:002010-12-11T11:52:02.426-05:00I am no shoe expert. I'd like to hear a shoe ...I am no shoe expert. I'd like to hear a shoe expert's take, but since all I have at hand is a master at cutting and pasting the most pretentious and overwrought encomiums to trivial "sartorial" minutiae, I'll put the question to you: where is the welt in the diagram of the Blake "welted" shoe? And is it a coincidence that, Googling "blake welt", this blog post is already the third result behind your source? Some "facts" may be little-known for a reason.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3895647038898538515.post-86064647681658444302010-12-11T11:30:41.250-05:002010-12-11T11:30:41.250-05:00Informative information is indeed what we need to ...Informative information is indeed what we need to become sartorially educated.<br /><br />Thanks for this post, including the 'incredibly nerdy diagrams'.Rykmanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04721097148421257388noreply@blogger.com